nini

Hi Rayjr,
I 've painted it with those only 6 colors ....
Burnt Siena, yellow ochre, raw umber, light yellow cadmium, flake white hue and cadmium red medium.
it costed me approximatively 30$ and those colours will be used again....
Do it, it' a pleasure to see what we are able to do....
Christophe

ozzmanace

My Feedback: (1)

that's some awesome detail. could you tell and show some more about it.

nini

Hi ozzmanace,
If you are talking about the pilot painting, here's the link of the painting tutorial from Ace of iron...

http://www.acesofiron.com/paint.htm


Some bad news from France:

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=z5E4t_G9gTY

It will be necessary to bring out the glue ....and go back to work.
Christophe

mgnostic

It's been a bit since anybody had much to say on this thread but I thought I would give a long term use report. I find that I don't fly the N17 as much as I would like for the simple fact that it is a bear to get it in and out of my basement. If I had a ground floor room to keep it in or a nice basement it would be a lot different. I have installed a Du-Bro fuel filler valve. This was a big improvement in convenience. I've tuned on the Homelite 25cc and got a few hundred more rpms. It now turns 7080 on the ground with an 18-6 prop. Flying spped figures to be around 40ish. I probably gain a few more RPMs as the prop unloads in the air. There has been a little wear and tear on the airframe. Both of the aluminum struts on the stabilizer have broken right where they bend to make the fuselage attachment point. This is a relatively easy fix. I'm really thinking about making some sort of spring loaded spreader bar for the landing gear. It isn't too noticiable in flight but the gear splays quite a bit when taxiing in from a landing. If I were doing another one (maybe the N28) I would seriously consider a scale gear assembly. Only one scary item. One of the soldered tabs on the rear wing struts broke off. It was the center rear strut. The tab appears to be copper but is probably a reddish brass. There was a partial failure of the solder joint ( it appears to be fractured) but the remainder of the tab was still attached to the music wire strut. Luckily the port strut carried the load. While the front struts carry a large portion of the flying load a total failure of both rear struts would be catastrophic. This failure may have of course been due to poor solder technique on my part but I would suggest that anyone flying the N17 check the tabs for cracks or failed solder. I discovered the broken tab as I was disassembling the plane after flying it today. I would still recommend this plane to anyone wanting a sport scale model of the N17. It tools around flying on the wing looking very much like a WWI airplane should. Loops are suitable pear shaped and rolls go a lot better with a little rudder. A low full throttle pass with a pull up into a hammerhead with that big wing standing out against a puffy white cloud as it pivots around and heads back down hill just has to be seen.

Skoda2005

I am constructing a Nieuport 17 of a plane of Raft It(He,She) Uses and the landing gear is not equal to that of the planes of this forum. They can put some detailed photo of since they have done it to it possible be with suspension as fortune-teller in some?. It is the first time that I construct this type of planes. Thank you

mgnostic

Hi Skoda2005
The landing gear that you use for a Nieuport will depend on how scale like you want it to appear. The BUSA kit uses a simple bent wire gear that is soldered together. Attaching wooden fairings to the wires to give the appearance of the gear legs and using scale sized wheels makes a big difference. I have been quite happy with Williams Brothers wheels. If you look at some of the threads by some of the other modelers here (Abufletcher for one) there are topics on building scale landing gear and detailing the wheels to give a very scale appearance. If you are building a scale model for competition you will have to make different choices from a sport flier like myself. If you want to make the effort it is possible to replicate the original aircraft gear although these tend to be a little fragile for everyday use.

rayjr

Well my Nieuport is finished and has 10 flights! I'm looking to add some detail, mainly a dumy Radial. Does anyone know of a good Le Rhone Engine available without Breaking the Bank?

Thanks,
Ray.

nini

Hi Ray,

Have you some pic's or vidéos of your flights....
For the dummy engine look at Mick Reeves.....

rayjr

Nini,

Thanks for responding. I've seen your engine on the other site. I'm trying to find the cost and shipping to the states for his product. I'm also wondering if anyone in the states carries his products? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ray.

rayjr

Nini,

I ordered the Radial from Mick Reeves and awaiting delivery.
There are pictures on my Club Website at: WWW.RCRCC.com, click on 2008 pictures. I'm kneeling behind my Nieuport 17. Hows your rebuild coming along after your mishap?

Ray.

jtisch

On the BUSA N.17, is the fuselage frame cross section completely square (easier to build but not scale) or is it tapered towards the bottom like the real one?

Thanks

nini

Hi Ray,
I've seen your pic on your website. (your link is wrong, there is something after ".com" that should not be....) Nice plane...I wish, i'd mine as new as your's......I did'nt have touch her since the crash.....May be this winter....For the moment, i went on helicopters, and it take all my free time....

jtisch, i hope i've understand your question...This plane is not really scale, but really looks like..... for the fuse, only the rudder, and where the cowl meet the fuse seems to be a little wrong....
Christophe

rayjr

Chistophe,

Thanks for the compliments. I built the Reeves Radial Le Rhone and it looks great. The problem is its "Way" too big to fit in the cowl correctly. It looks as though the inlet tubes have to be cut at the top? Can you tell me HOW you modified yours to fit? Also if you mounted the Radial to the cowl HOW did you mount it to the cowl?

Thanks.

jtisch

Well, I've got one on the way. I may already be having regrets. Is it true that the cowl is 9.5 inches in diameter? That is too small for scale and too small for the engine I want to put in and not have it stick out. I previously thought the cowl on the BUSA looked off because it was lengthened but the diameter off too? Yare yare.

mgnostic

The cowling isn't very scale. It is too long and probably too small in diameter. I think they use the same cowl for all the 1/4 scale WWI stuff. The aluminum cowl is a nice piece of hardware though. Use the stock plastic cowl as a guide and transfer the cuts to the aluminum one. In answer to an earlier question about the fuselage profile, no, it isn't scale. It is square and doesn't taper from top to bottom. I have a Proctor N.28 that I've been building on and off (mostly off) for years that has the top to bottom taper. It used a couple of formers to set the taper. It was built more like a crutch design with the top frame built first. Then the formers set the taper and the lower longerons are added in. At least that is how I remember it. The BUSA N17 is a sweet flying sport scale plane. Going with some scale detail such as additional marking, ammo chutes, a few flying wires can really dress it up without going to major structural changes. I would say if a person was really wanting to go with a true scale airframe one should start with a set of plans that were designed to be scale from the get go. There is a set of period drawings (the Rozendaal Drawings) of the original N17. I think I got my copy on that auction website that every one cusses about. There are apparently no original N17s or factory drawings left so that is about the best you have got but it does show tons of stuff that would make for a lot of scale details including accurate profiles if you are so inclined. Lots of rambling but I'm a big fan of Nieuports.

jtisch

Thanks for the info!
My plan is to convert it into a Nieuport 27 so I will be adding stringers to the fuselage and perhaps I can "hide" the lack of taper on the fuselage. The 27 also had a thicker airfoil so the thick BUSA wing won't be as noticeable. I just need to find a 26 to 26.5cm aluminum pot and draw up a N.28 tail (or find some plans). Power will hopefully be a Stihl gas 4-stroke which is why I want the bigger cowl.

J

jtisch

Well, after thinking about it some more, I am going to draw up my own plans for a Nieuport 27 and keep the BUSA kit intact so I can trade or sell it. There were so many changes I wanted to make that it just seems to make more sense this way. I have already drawn up the ribs and will start cutting them out.

lança

Hello friend`s. My name is luiz. I`m Porto Alegre-Brasil. This is week is fly my new Nieuport 17. Has an engine SuperTigre G-23 and 2 meters wingspan.It was very nice the fly this model. It´s made spruce the fuselege and fod foamcutter and CNC homebuilding this wing.I apreciate the buildings and model for you, so. IÃ*m putting some photos of my model. Excuse my english, it´s all the terrible. God by.

nini

Hi Luiz, Welcome to RC UNIVERSE...!
Seems to be a nice one.....Congratulations for your flight....Could you post some bigger pics...!
Christophe

lança

Hi Christophe. Satisfaction in beging able to participate rc universe.It´s very good to participate in experiments and innovations in the constructions of airmodels. Here in Porto Alegre-Brazil ar the flight Stick and many of our fiends like to build models of WWI. Here some pic´s of events and the flight of my Nieuport 17 is on you-tube. See "esquadrilha stick. Thanks for letting me respond. I am happy to have a more firend. Thanks

maratia

Hi,
I am Angelo Maratia, member of esquadrilha stick...

Following the presentation, following my last aeromodelo, a ex-Fokker d7 which has become a low-wing Fokker ... hehehe we do everything around here ...

By,
Angelo

jtisch

After going over the BUSA N17 some more, I have started drawing up my own plans for the Nieuport 27.

Changes that would apply to the N17.
1. Enlarging the fuse for a 26cm (10 1/4" ) cowl as opposed to the 9-1/2" cowl supplied.
2. Adding the trapezoidal shape of the fuse
3. Moving the landing gear forward
4. Making the bottom wings plug in and keeping the LG attached to the fuse.(Somewhat a personal preference).
5. Reducing the chord and changing the spar position of the bottom wing.
6. Changing the airfoils.
7. Rearrange cabane struts.

Changes for N27
1. Increasing chord on the top wing and changing the airfoil.
2. Changing aileron shape.
3. Adding formers and stringers for fuse.
4. Different tailskid
5. And of course, different tail.

I think that that is most of it. When I get something done perhaps I'll start a new thread.

Cheers!!!

J

abufletcher

So how much is left of the "kit" once you make all these changes?

jtisch

All of it!

abufletcher

That makes the BUSA an amazing value: Two models for the price of one! As long as you scratch-build the other!