Jim B.

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Because of the low cost and lack of V.O.C.s, I have been experimenting with latex house paints for scale models. This is what I have found.
The primer should be a primer/sealer with lots of body. If you want to add details such as panel lines etc., add corn starch at a ratio of 2 paint to 1 c.s. to give the primer even more body. Spray on two or three coats with about a 1.7mm tip, letting the primer dry for about an hour or so between coats and about 8 hours to finish. Before pulling off the tape or mask, give the edge a quick wipe with 220 grit sandpaper and the edge will be nice and sharp.
Spray on the color coats as desired using exterior grade semigloss paint and a 0.8 tipped spray gun. I prefer to purchase the bottles of tint from the paint store and mix my own colors, but the store will match any color you need if you need large quantities. When spraying over a mask (tape, frisket etc.), apply a light coat of paint and dry it immediately with a hair dryer or heat gun, then apply additional coats. The bonus with using latex is that you don't have to apply lighter colors first. The paint has enough body that light pigments will cover over the darker ones.
Finally, coat the entire model with the desired gloss of polyurethane laquer. Three thin coats should do. Remember to apply your decals after the first coat of clear. I'm currently experimenting with waterbourne laquers - we'll see what happens.
Oh yeah - I prefer to use a gravity feed spray gun, available almost anywhere.
For those of you tired of the high cost and smell of oil based or epoxy paints, try latex and I guarantee you'll never go back!

checksix

My Feedback: (4)

Jim, what brand do you use for the clear coat?
--Derek

Vince

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Min Wax has worked very well for me.

Vince

Jim B.

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Derek
At present I'm using a brand called Old Masters. I don't think it really matters as long as its a non-yellowing polyurethane, which should be stated on the product label.

flugzoid

How about the fuel proofing for Glow engines? When I did my spitty I painted up using Top Flite's colors, then added some other hardware paint on top of it...a total wrinkled mess. I was really bummed. I have found that you can't mix the different paints, even if they are the same base. Anyone else have that trouble?

John
AMA 646269

Jim B.

My Feedback: (1)

Dear John (this is the first time I have ever written a "dear John" letter - just kidding!)
I should have mentioned that at present all of my airplanes have glow engines. That is the primary reason for spraying the model with polyurethane laquer. I have read in the current literature that normal gasoline does not attack the latex paint, but don't hold me to this.
As a gereral rule of thumb, oil based paint can be applied over latex but latex cannot be applied over oil paints. Perhaps that is where your troubles began.

flugzoid

Yes, I'm sure that you're correct on this. I just went to go back and look at my offending paint combinations. The first coat was acrylic enamel from the hardware store. The second coat was Top Flite's LustreCoat...I figured that they both had the same base. In the future, I guess I'll do the hardware store thing totally, instead of trying to use the hobby store paints. I noticed another thing when I read over your post again. I'm amazed that you actually mix in corn starch. My airbrush, I'm certain, would immediately become clogged up. BUT, I seem to have gleened that you use a much heavier duty spray system when you mentioned the word "spray gun" and gravity feed (even though a number of airbrushes are gravity feed). Anyway, thanks for the tips. I'm going to try and utilize them in the future.

John

Jim B.

My Feedback: (1)

John
You can purchase these spray guns through your local autobody shop. My spray guns are manufactured by Delta Industries under the brand "Protek". The large (1.7mm) gun is capable of laying a very thick coat and has no problem handling the thickened primer. I use the small (0.8mm) gun for applying color only.
Both of the guns cost about $140.00 Cdn. each.

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

There is really no need to purchase professional quality spray guns IMO, unless you just enjoy throwing money away. The Chinese knock offs at Harbour freight are perfectly suited to applying latex paint. I have even seen a fellow modeller with a show quality automotive paint finish on his expensive pattern plane, who used one of these knock off spray guns. The finish was flawless.

Vince

Derrick-RCU

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Can the latex paints also be used to spray the plastic (ABS) cowls that come with some kits? Or will only work on fiberglass?

WALKERS210-RCU

My Feedback: (36)

I am now in process of building my first foamcore plane. The B25 from AeroTech International. I was giving thought to painting but had no real idea. Will this process work on the foamcore.

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, latex will stick to ABS plastic, just rough it up with OO steelwool and clean with mineral spirits first. No need for primer, it will stick like stink.

Vince

Zhack-rcu

Hey guys,
I started out in electrics and am now building my first glow model. It's a JK Aerotech foamy P51. I want to cover in with glass cloth and water based polyurethane (Varathane Diamond Coat). Is the WBPU fuel proof? I have 35% nitro for the 1/2A Norvel I will use.

How about paint? I have some automotive polyurethane I intend to use over the WBPU. Should be OK for fuel proof and compatibility?

BTW... What is the chemistry of Krylon paints? Are they fuelproof and compatible with WBPU?

Thanks for your help.

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

Has anyone used a gloss latex? Would like to use it over a glass fuselage and don't want to shoot polyurethane over the latex (don't need to worry about glow fuel).

Also, how resistant is white latex to yellowing?

Bill