Sanding Primer Question
#1
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From: Akron,
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Whats the secret to sanding primer, and not having your sandpaper load up every 10 seconds?
When doing a glass fuse I've always wet sanded, but with a balsa fuse I've been sanding dry, I'm going thru sandpaper like mad. There must be some trick I'm missing, what is it?
Jeff
When doing a glass fuse I've always wet sanded, but with a balsa fuse I've been sanding dry, I'm going thru sandpaper like mad. There must be some trick I'm missing, what is it?
Jeff
#2
If you glassed your model, go ahead and wet sand. Just be careful not to wet areas that have not been glassed, and be careful that you don't sand through the glass layer.
Scott
Scott
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From: Lakeside, AZ
Jeff I dry sand all of mine. Keep a piece of foam rubber handy and just wipe the sand paper on the foam rubber. Make sure your primmer is dry. I use automotive Laqure primmer. Most of the stuf in spray cans is enamel and it takes to long to dry. Rich
#4
There are types of "anti-clog" sand paper. You can buy it at auto paint stores. It's partially effective.
When sanding primer, I go through lots of paper. It's just part of the procedure. When it loses it's "edge", I get out another sheet. It makes the job go faster, albeit more expensive.
The type of primer used, makes a difference, too. I haven't had much luck with sandable Krylon, etc. before I bought my HLVP spray gun, I used rattle can sandable/filler primer, from the auto paint store. it dries quickly, but again, the cost is higher.
When sanding primer, I go through lots of paper. It's just part of the procedure. When it loses it's "edge", I get out another sheet. It makes the job go faster, albeit more expensive.
The type of primer used, makes a difference, too. I haven't had much luck with sandable Krylon, etc. before I bought my HLVP spray gun, I used rattle can sandable/filler primer, from the auto paint store. it dries quickly, but again, the cost is higher.
#6

Just a comment. If you are going to use white, yellow or some other bright colors, prime with white primer. The colors will be much brighter. I primed the fuselage on one plane with grey primer and couldn't get the yellow paint to match the Ultracote on the wings. Went over the painted yellow (after sanding it a lot) and primed with white. Repainted with yellow. Perfect match!
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From: Simpsonville,
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I've had very good results with Dupli-Color Filler Primer from my local Advance Auto Parts store. This is a laquer base, it is sandable and it is made for filling minor scratches and imperfections which makes it perfect for panel lines and rivets on our models. I dry sand using those foam blocks with the grit impregnated on four of the six surfaces in both medium and fine grit. They are available at any Home Depot, Lowes or hardware store.
Al
Al
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From: Akron,
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Sebo, where are you getting your white primer from? I tried to get some Dupont white primer, but they wanted $200 a gallon for it, had to pass on it, I know Pep boys used to have a rattle can white primer, but havn't seen that in a while.
Jeff
Jeff
#9

Believe it or not....Pep Boys!
You might ask for a special order.
They didn't have any on the shelf and I told them that I needed 6 cans. I had them the following week.
The Home Depot has white primer too.
I've used the Rustoleum white primer from The Home Depot and had good results. It dries fast too, not like the rustoleum paints themselves.
I think that Coverite sells a white primer. That gets expensive though. Hobby products seem to carry a higher price.
You might ask for a special order.
They didn't have any on the shelf and I told them that I needed 6 cans. I had them the following week.
The Home Depot has white primer too.
I've used the Rustoleum white primer from The Home Depot and had good results. It dries fast too, not like the rustoleum paints themselves.
I think that Coverite sells a white primer. That gets expensive though. Hobby products seem to carry a higher price.



