Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Placement of the Rx switch, Charge port and kill switch were next. Iepoxied a piece of Velcro for the Rx and for the voltage regulator attached to the switch. The placement is as per instructions on the bottom of the wing faring. The Charge port was also placed on the bottom of the faring oposite side in front.

The kill switch that came with the engine is big and ugly so I found a sutable micro switch at Radio Snack that can fit in the gap between the cowl and fuse (thanks KC for the tips) Using Stainless Steel material I fashoned a bracket for the switch. The holes were drilled to allow better adhesion and grip for the bracket. It's fiberglassed in place with two layers of cloth. The final result is really strong, accessible and hidden from view opposite the carb so no spatter blows on the switch.

Pete

Mein Duff

Just tuning into this thread....enjoing your meticulous work..and great to have all that feedback from other flyers.

The Wedell is a beautifull machine to behold in the air as well, I just realized I have a 1/32 scale Williams Bros. plastic complete kit I picked up somewhere along the way if you're interested. The kit looks at least 15-20 yrs old maybe but the box and great cover art is intact...

Keep up the good work

KC36330

Pete,

are the ABS pieces pre formed or were they just flat and took their shape when screwed down??

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

KC,

The ABS parts are vac formed. Looks like you had some great weather this weekend.

Mein Duff,
Welcome abaord. Yes I'd be interested in the model send me a PMfor details. Thanks

Pete

KC36330

it was beautiful and HOT both days, we had a good turn out, hate you missed it. got in 4 good flights on the Flash but the south end of the field was hazy and made visibility quiet difficult for it with everyone commenting that they couldn't keep up with it at all. i got her weighted last week, came in at 23.12 lbs so that gives me better then 1.5 to 1 thrust to weight

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Finishing up on the little things...

The Cowl brackets are drilled for #2 screws to keep them in proper position when the firewall is removed.

The throttle pushrod was done with the supplied Sullivan Nyrod but the outer tube had a lot of tension on it from the bend down from the servo tray thru the firewall. To take the strain off the rod I made a 2x2cm block, drilled it and glued it in place. The Tube now has a longer stable channel and the pushrod has less tension on it. The rod isn't glued in place so I used another Sullivan product to anchor the tube.

KC36330

Pete if you heat the pushrod at the carb you can form it to that shape and take some of the stress off it.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Finished the Kill switch by using #10 wire soldered to the switch then using Male/Female connections she connects to the Black line to the ignition unit. Used heat shrink to keep it neat and together. It's long enough to connect and place the cowl on and off. Added some banana clip covers to prevent contact with the engine.

I have a Transmitter operated Kill switch from 42% products for magneto engines but not sure where to tie it in. The white lead goes to the engine block to ground it and the other red lead goes to the "Single Kill Wire" Will call their support line and get some ideas. will post if installed. My Fiber optic kill switch on my DA 50 goes in line with the manual switch.

Pete

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Hi Pete, I’ve been using those blue Sullivan rods ever since they first came out. Even though they are flexible, I have made every attempt to keep them as straight as possible. You need to have your throttle control very precise especially at the low end. Those bends won’t do it. Try to relocate the pushrod to get a straight connection to the ball link. Line up the inner rod with the center of the ball. It looks from the images that there is no obstruction behind the firewall. It may take an extra piece of hard balsa to support the rod in that immense fuselage. Scuff up the outer rod with 100 grit sandpaper and epoxy it to the firewall where it exits. The rod is extremely slick. Trusting that clamp and screw is a high risk to your hand and other vital parts of your body. I hope this helps. Dan.

KC36330

on the optio kill switch...........it connects to the magneto, same place you got the manual switch (parallel with it), it grounds the mag removing the spark. on the DA you're braking the battery input to kill the spark so it can go inline (series) so either will open the line for the batt.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

KC,

Was thinking about connecting it to the Red lead on the magneto so the two kills were separate.

Dan,

The tube is anchored really tight. I may epoxy to end going through the former at the servo tray but the firewall end needs to be free to remove the firewall. With the muffler attached there is no way to "line up" the pushrod like your setup. The Geometry is excellent with full movement of the butterfly from Idle to WOT using the full throw of the servo. Will not be able to really fine tune the setup till ground testing.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

copy of the Kill circuit

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

KC was dead on as the two run parallel . Emailed 42% and this was the response...





"Now on to your help .

It needs to be used with the whatever color comes out of the coil and the engine Ground (our Lug mount) if it’s Red or black it just needs to be confined to the motor box please do not mount the Cube outside the motor box or you will have engine noise in the radio system if needed extend the servo lead to run to your radio gear

Ken Anderson

42-Percent-Products.com

[email protected] "



I setup the white to the housing and red to the BLACK wire from the magneto Set my Futaba Tx for my kill switch on an empty channel. Pulled the plug and turned out the lights to test. The engine grounds out with both manual and Tx operated switches. Interesting and important as it was NOT noted in the instructions is to mount the "cube" in the motor box or you will get engine noise. The "cube" will be mounted on the firewall above the engine.

Pete

JohnMcGowan

My Feedback: (15)

Hiya Pete! WOW, what a super great build you have going on [sm=thumbup.gif]! Looks wonderful and Im sure its going to turn lots of heads at your flying field. Im now subscribed to watch your progress.
Take care buddy,
John

rcfrey

My Feedback: (4)

Pete,

This is an excellent build thread! I am looking forward to watching you maiden this beautiful plane. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Bob

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Bob,

Thanks a bunch and welcome aboard. As soon as I get Charles's Stick back together I'll be back on the project later this week. The building is done but there's a lot of finishing work ahead.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Back on track...

Finished the radial engine The #44 had a PW 1340 Wasp engine and I wanted mine to look the part so I painted the jugs silver and the case gray. Then using 30lb picture frame wire and 1/8 in rivets I was able to reproduce the spark plug shield and wires. Took a piece of nyrod casing and the rod for the wiring harness these were shaped using the heat from my covering gun. The ring was glued with CA. The harness was anchored with small zip ties and also held down by the lifter rods. Lifter rods were installed, cut to length then anchored with silicone. The wires are glued into the rivets and your done. looks much better then stock.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

More,

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Finished sanding the wings and ailerons to shape as well. You need to shape to the contour of the fiberglass root for both the leading and trailing edges. I took a section of the ply sheet that held the 1st ply rib to use as a template in sanding to the proper shape.

Pete

KC36330

Lookin good Pete!!

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Thanks KC.

Pushing to be done by spring.

KC36330

wish i could say the same for the F-15, it seams to have been moved to the back burner and the back burner isn't even warm.


i did get the Powerbox batteries the other day for it, Duralite has the 4300 2S2P LiIon's on sale 40% off.

Avaiojet

Great Job!

I have the Lion at 1/4 scale but scratch built. Is the Byron 1/4 scale? I'm saving all your photos on the engine work. Thanks for that also.

Did the dummy engine come with the kit?

Charles

www.cfcgraphics.com

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Charles,
Thanks. Yes the plane is 1/4 scale. Yes the dummy engine came with the kit. I did look at the Frank Tiano dummy engine but decided to use the Byron.

Pete

Avaiojet

Pete,

Is your radial made of resin?

Charles