I am looking for REVERSE threaded 1-64 nuts. I have found several sources of regular threaded ones http://www.fastenermart.com/html/NT163-0702.html including some brass ones from McMasterCarr but not the reverse threaded ones.
Any ideas? I could also make something if I could find a TAP in this size.

Hi, are you also trying to nut Proctor Turnbuckles?? I tried this search unsuccesfully. I now saftey wire the reverse, wind the wire up and spin it on and nut the normal end. If you have success, please post!!

Dave

You picked up on that nut size as being the same as on the Proctor turnbuckles . Yes I am hoping to avoid safety wire if I can.
The search is not going very well, as yours did also, apparently.

Proctor has a machine that makes the reverse threads for their turnbuckles. So finding a nut to fit will be umm difficult at best. Safety wire is pretty easy to do and only takes a few minutes.

I know this is off-topic, but could someone explain to me the progression of smaller thread sizes, that is, sizes smaller than 2-56? In metric I'm familiar with M2 and M1.7 but that's about it.

On topic I'll just add a reminder that the Pup didn't actually use turnbuckles so I'd be hesitant to fork over the cash for a set of Proctor turnbuckle, which aren't even particularly scale in appearance when you look at actual WWI turnbuckles. I when the music wire route on my Snipe, but I can understand how some people might be hesitant to do this. Who knows what I'll end up with. But if I do go the route of using cable instead, I don't think I'd mess around trying to make them adjustable on a 1:6 scale model.

Standard are generally

00-80
1-72
2-56
4-40
6-32
ect.

how do you adjust a music wire:-)

Has any one tried using shrink tube to secure the threads against vibration? One could use the nuts on the right threaded end and shrink on the left handed?
I am trying to avoid wire for several reasons, scale accuracy being the primary one. The idea is to make scale looking clevises by CUTTING up Proctor turnbuckles, which would be very close to what the Pup had.

http://secure2.data-comm.com/servlet...REW-HEX/Detail

I've got lots of sources for right hand nuts. I'm looking for LEFT handed ones.

Some guys have used locktite. I have never gone that route.

DJ

Allan have you looked at Mick Reeves fittings? His work pretty well and aren't turnbuckles. More scale for the Camen and Pup.

You don't want to know! Seriously, I spent WAY too much time and energy trying to figure out a solution to this.

Actually, I like the idea (and sacrelage) of cutting up proctor turnbuckles! But I wonder if there isn't a simpler/cheaper way.

The problem is that nothing like this exist for 1/6th scale.

I get a lot of weird small hardware from the local hardware distributor for the aircraft industry. If these guys can't get it, it probably isn't made. They even hooked me up for replacement hardware for 1959 british sportscar.

Okay, I bought a pack of 5 turnbuckles from our local Dymond store for $9.90 (also got some 2mm nuts to match them for $2 - steel but I can get brass ones from McMastersCarr).
I chucked one of the turnbuckles in my drill press and chopped off some pieces with a Dremel/cutoff wheel. Bad news, I could only get TWO pieces before I ran out of thread. Nonetheless, I now have two reverse threaded "nuts" and a right handed clevis. This took MINUTES to do although my drilling job is rather sloppy.
It would be possible to make the parts using these Aeronaut turnbuckles, which already come with a hex section through the middle part, making nice "nuts".
The clevis shown on the bottom is just under 19mm long overall with the bolt part included, very much in the 1/6th scale realm, and this method allows me to adjust the rigging by turning the wires, just like real life. I don't think the Mick Reeves parts do that, they are all righthand threaded, I would bet.

What are you using for the flying wire?

You adjust the Mick Reeves by turning the wire just like in the FS air craft. They mabe be too big for 1/6 though.

Mick Reeves 1/16" flat wire, silver soldered to notches cut into the bolts with a cutoff wheel.
I will have dual wires on the flying wires, singles on the landing wires. Cabane and strut cross bracing is undetermined at this point. but probably won't be so elaborate, nor need turnbuckles for adjustability.

That looks really promising, Allan. Can you tell me more about those turnbuckles?

They are from Dymond hobbies, here in San Diego but are made in Germany. A bit longer than the Proctor, although Proctor has some longer ones listed in their on-line catalog. Proctor's have 1-64 threads but these are 2mm. Here's a pix of the packaging (5 units/pack @ $9.60).
A little bit of filing and they would make very scale-like clevises.

Does anyone have an online source for these? Strangely, I can't find a listing on the Aero-Naut site itself.

http://www.aero-naut.net/304.html?&no_cache=1&L=1
Have not found the turnbuckles though.

TFF, I had already found the website and even search using the German term "spannschraube" but got nothing. The only thing I haven't done yet is scan the 10 page price list. At any rate, they don't look like they have an online shop.

Abu: e-mail Dymond and talk to him.

http://www.rc-dymond.com/

Les

I was just in there this morning buying three more packs of these turnbuckles for my Pup project. They seem to have more in stock however. Helmut is the man. Here is his card.