bignuts181

Hi guys.....Guess what turned up at work today? give up? Well the good folks at Austar models have done thier homework and listened to thier customers and have produced an outstanding model of the cessna 188 Ag husky. Since the models original conception, the models has undergone several changes in responce to the modellers wish list.

So first off the model comes in a very sturdy double box affair to look after your new toy in transit, this also doubles as an overgrown rubbish bin to put the acres of protective wrapping that every component has been carefully protected in.

Construction consists of a very light built up ply and balsa construction with high quality covering film finished to a very high standard that puts other manufactures to shame. The hardware as per all of Austars models, is also to a high standard and as such is a testament to the time and attention to detail that has gone into the design and development of this model.

So down to business..... First off my intention with the Ag husky is to use it for Aerotowing as a replacement for my now deceaced ESM Cessna 185 that served me well for over 250 flights and was lost through no fault to the model.

The power plant for this build will be the DL 50 due to it's power and reliability. This is on the bottom of the power range as the recomendation is for 50-85cc but given the light weight of the airframe will prove to be more than adequate.

In keeping with my usual style of building the instructions were given the once over followed buy the heave ho and are provided as a general guide to building the Husky. So for me building began with cutting the film for the underfuselage hatch and ironing the edges of the covering down. This then gives access to mount the alloy undercaridge and in doing so help to avoid hanger rash during construction. Now imagine my surprise when I opened the tyrebag and found a gorgous set of solid and light weight rubber 5" cub style wheels with tread and all, no leaky tyres around here! All in all pretty good so far.

More to come....

wifpwcf

nice one rossco looking forward to your building tips on this baby
dl100 is what you are useing aint it not a dl50
cheers glen

bignuts181

Hi there Glen....I'd love a DL 100, do you have a spare?? for now I'll use the 50, but I'm open to offers.......

bignuts181

Hi guys well I got some more done to the husky today and fitted up the DL 50 using the supplied stand offs and a 10mm packer from an SWB standoff kit that I bought from THE HOBBY MAN. this gives you about 5mm clearance for the backplate of the spinner and allows for a 6mm overlap of the fuselage with the cowl.

Next up I have made a start on the Tow release pylon. Now normally I would mount the hook for a high wing between the trailing edge of the wing but on a low wing like my 80" pawnee I have fitted the hook at the junction between the cabin and turtle deck. Normally this would be fine but given that the cabin is set well back on the model and due to the height of the fin this simply isn't going to be possible so up the cabin we go! so my solution is to make an internal ply structure to carry the tow hook and tie this into the pre existing fuselage structure. Now tepmplates will be available at a later time to make the tower structure....once I know it works! Using patternmakers dividers I was able to measure the inside of the structure and lay this out on a sheet of 1/4" seven ply and use the width of the ruler for wall section and are made in two halves to get them into position, later they wil be sandwitched between 3mm five ply when joining. to allow the new structure to fit inside the cabin some material will need to be removed, refer to pics.

Oh did I mention I got a great suntan while out flying my 80" pawnee, cropduster style......

cheer Rossco.

richox5

wow Rossco you dont muck around, hope the tow release frame works as i had already been advised by my aerotow buddies to mount the release up high at the top of the cab. now you are going to do the guinea pig work for us we can all see if it works and do the same kind of setup.

bananaman

That's very similar to what I have in mind. I've got some 6mm carbon tube to reinforce it ala the full size ones. See the attached images.

bignuts181

Yep that is the end goal, kind make it look scale but more importantly to make sure it works!

Rossco.

bignuts181

Hey guys I got some more done to the cessna tonight, first up I decided to mount the cowl, now with the motor being centred according to the centre lines on the engine box the cowl was offered up and found to be a really good fit, so good that I decided to pack the motor forward a further 4mm, I lost a couple of mill there somewhere.... with the cowl removed and using masking tape, I ruled a datum line from the mounting holes on the side of the fuse and marked 100mm back this will give you a straight line to pick up again after refitting the cowl. You can now transfer the 100mm from your previously marked point ont a piece of tape on the cowl and hey presto, your holes in the cowl are perfect every time and buy using tape you resist problems of chipping your gorgous paint....an oldy but a goody!!

Next up was to do some more on the tow hook mast. I decided that I could sufficiently stiffen the mast with diagonal 10mm round dowl travelling from the top of the mast, past the rear former and to the floor of the longerons in the bottom of the fuse. To capture the top of the dowl I made a ply doubler that encapulates the top of the dowl, this also ties the two sides of the former together up top and will also have a doubler at half mast. Later on I'll fit the tow release servo and sliding pin arangement.

An eggspert is mierly an egg under preasure!

Rossco

Avaiojet

Big,

Congratulations on your model and build. Thanks also for taking the time to share your talents with us.

I'll be keeping an eye on this build.

Kudos!

Charles

www.cfcgraphics.com

wifpwcf

far out nice rossco keep it up,
talk soon
cheers glen

bignuts181

no worries guys glad to help out, just when I thought I had the coffin was nailed shut on the tow release I had a better idea.....after I drilled the hole, [X(]you'll see what I mean later, buy the way you can easily squeeze standard sized servos into each stab half.....

AWAR

Congrats!!...........Amazing Looking Airplane !!!...............I got a very strong feeling that there will be some "issues" with the tire "Rims" and the (Very Easy) bending of the landing gear ,.....( I hope that I am Wrong!).... on the good side bending the landing gear will be better than breaking the Fuselaje L.G. mount,
Du- Bro makes a good set of tires the same size
Regards
A......

bignuts181

Hi guys, well I got some more work done tonight and last night on the Husky. This involved glueing in the Tow release tower and stiffening dowls in between watching those super tight short shorts of Jessica Simpsons on the box......waw! So the morning after left me trimming the tower down a little to better fit with the canopy attached. So far so good, I'm one happy camper.

Next up was to cut a wrather big hole in the tailplane root rib the size of a Hitech HS 645mg. This is my servo of choice as there plenty grunty enough with 10kg of torque at 6 volt. Now there's two reasons for cutting the hole. First it allows you to see whats inside the structure and secondly it will give you access to the servo mounting screws. I decided for simplicity I would also cut a hatch in each tailplane half just to make putting the servos in one hell of a lot easier and for future servicing should the need arise and will have mounting tabs on the inside as I have done for my other build, the 120" cessna 182. While checking over of the models hardware two things became apparent, you are only supplied one set of wheel collars for the main axles, I added a set of dubros with the inner ones being used to space the hubs out from the uc legs. Secondly one thing I learnt from my 86" cessna 185 was the damaging effect vibratin particularly at idle has on the elevator hinges with a big single up front and after 250 flights the hinges were as sloppy as. With this being the case I have replaced all of the hinges with Robart items of the same size, just to be on the safe side.

Just for the hell of it I have fitted my 1/3rd scale Dubro pilot I bought many moons ago and bugger me he's a perfect fit!

Last off I also made a start on roughing in the electrical system on the engine box consisting of the ignition module which has been soft mounted on silicon fuel tubing, the emcotec regulated ignition kill and finally a 5 cell 2700 nmh pack. As I'm not too sure how the CofG is going to come out I may also fit a 3600 intelect 5 cell flight pack up front on the side of the engine box, it fits like a glove!

cheers Rossco.

Gtarling

Looking good so far Rossco! Is there a reason that you didn't fit the elevator servos onto the hatch cover, as is done on the wing? Figuring on doing it that way on mine, as it'll save cutting that huge hole in the root rib.

SDCrashmaster

Rossco, how's that 182 coming along. I am anxious to see that thing assembled and out at the field. Flight pics would be a bonus.
Nothing against the AG, just very interested in this unique new Austair 182.
Paul

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

How far back from leading edge of firewall did you set-back the cowl (ie: Lap fuse) - I was thinking I would setback about a 1/4 inch, seams to work well with my DL50 on 1/2" ply spacers under stock standoffs I dont see where manual said, so I guess it is up to us.
Mine also had expoxy finger prints on top of fuse nose area. Acetone took it off with some minor rubbing.
Fit is very good on all parts.
Anyone have any good ideas (photos) on DL50 throttle & choke linkage setups befor I commit to mine????

bignuts181

Hi there dmyers0403 I'll have to double check on my set back of the cowl but 6 mm sounds about rite to me. As to the throttle lnkage I'll be attacking mine tonight.

Gtarling I have to be honest and say I'm not a huge fan of attaching servos to the hatch, but moreso because I didn't give it a second thought....you will also have to replace the hatch cover with a ply one and that also means you will need some additional covering film for the hatch.....but certainly it would work.

SDCrashmaster I will be getting back onto the cessna shortly but I have to get the husky finished for a magazine article....tic toc tic toc..... oh and I need something petrol to fly....

wifpwcf

nice nice nice

hi SDCrashmaster the new series 2 182tc 3mtr will be avalible soon,with working doors
cheers glen

bignuts181

Hi guys well I only got a tiny bit done tonight....family comitments....but I came to the conclusion that the easiest and quickest way to hook up the throttle and choke servos was to simply cut out the covering infront of the UC......and guess what? there is a mirriad of servo holes to be had! now this instantly makes life one hell of a lot easier and gives you the option of either fitting a removeable hatch or simply covering back over the hole. now as to the big access hatch behind.....now I have a cunning plan for this one I think you'll like but you'll have to wait, I'm wrecked after three nights of building till midnight.

cheers Rossco.

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

OK I have one very minor compliant/suggestion on kit - The canopy would be much better as a fiberglass unit (as opposed to vacum formed plastic) with cut-outs for window areas. Mine is reasonably smooth on right side but has several buckles and creases on the left side caused by glue to formers. Yes I know this would add to kit price, (mabey an option) but mabey could be done as an after market "IF" demand was large enough. Anyone out there good at making these??? I am going to check with a friend who is very good at this stuff on a personal basis but not for sale type stuff.
Understand I am VERY HAPPY with this kit - Just a Thought to provoke improvement.

PS: Will look at mount inside as suggested but I reset the throttle arm to a 90 degree left position. I will look at trying to mounting servos on plate at top of engine box with slight braced overhange to allow direct linkage drive to throttle. Probally same to choke if it all works If succesfull will make pics.

bignuts181

hi guys well I got the throttle and choke servos hooked up tonight and are made from 4-40 all thread and sleaved in carbon rod. once the correct length is estableished both ends were of the carbon rod were CA'd to help prevent splitting and to make the assembly stiffer, additionally I added a short length of heat shrink just to be safe on the throttle pushrod. The pushrods were then fitted off with 2-56 Dubro ball links. Now one thing I was a little surprised at was that there isn't any ply under the centre of the UC....that is to say that all the load is carried on the outer 2" of the undercarige mount and while this isn't of any concern to me as this is where all of the work is done it was a pain in the rear as there isn't anywhere to iron your covering too for the forward hatch. the fix is very simple, I just added some 1.5mm ply cut to a neat fit and CA'd into place and simply slid this under the covering and ironed it down, no biggy....

So last but not least I cut out the cooling hole in the bottom of the cowl and measures 3" from the back edge of the cowl to about an inch off either side of the cowl. I have also decided to cut out the intake slots that are situated below the spinner and in between the landing lights and have roughed them in with a cut off wheel and will finish up the radiuses on the ends with a needle file.....Oh did I mention I am fitting landing lights also.... a very easy addition and will really help with the last flight at dusk on landing....

cheers all Rossco.

bignuts181

hi guys I managed to get another time consuming job done tonight and made up an elevator servo loom consisting of two 24" hitech heavy duty extension leads and some standard servo wire to power the fin strobe. This was then encased into braid purchased from the "Hobby Man" and heat shrunk at each end. Braid as the name states is a braided sheath that encapulates and protects electrical wires and is now commonly used in fitouts of large IMAC style models as it protects your precious cables ties them all together and helps to remove the look of the dreaded birds nest. The plug ends, ie- servo end at the tail are fitted through rubber gromets that simply slide over the inside and outside of the fuse and will prevent wire chafe and failure to your leads they can be purchased from your local Tandy or electrical store.

cheers Rossco.

richox5

hey rossco i thought you where a man on a mission but i think bananaman is up for a fight to be the first to get in flight pictures. carry on boys im sure some more great ideas are going to come of your builds. im stuck for now as bolly props cant supply a 22x12 3 blade prop for a week or so. oh well at least i can see how you guys go with your tow points before i commit to anything

bananaman

No fighting, I have an unfair advantage. I'm on rostered days off till next week.

I've still got the engine/tank and radio setup to do and a bit of tidying up.

Some thing I've noticed is the turtledeck is cracked across the grain about 2 inches aft of the canopy where the stabs were packed on top of it in the box. Anyone else?

Gtarling

Bananaman - my turtledeck was crushed in that same place. Don't think it was the stabs that caused it, rather the card retaining piece which was glued across the fuselage section of the box. Mine's going to need the covering stripping off to effect a good repair, but I'm waiting to hear from Austars before I start tearing it apart.

Rossco - those cooling slots you've cut in the middle of the cowl, are they like that on a fullsize that you've seen?