Im building a 125" PC6.
I have just completed the work on the flaps and I have made the slottet.
Here is the results:

Here is a video of the flaps:

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i4ytzrSW_M]Double slottet flaps[/link]

Hello, I'm building the early model Piston version, from an old S2G ARF, that i'm modifying heavily! I too am making slotted flaps, however I was only going to do single slotted, but after seeing your work, I may have to do the double slotted flaps.

Question

1. How did you determine where to put your pivot point on the flap?

WOW!!!! I have an old Ikon 'n Wst version with simple flaps... This gives me the encouragement to rebuild the wings, something I have been thinking about for a very long time. Please keep the photos coming!

Hi thanks for the positive respons!

To determine the pivot point on the slot is rather difficult! Ive cut out a copy of the flap, slot and ving in a cardbord and spend a few hours finding the point. I dont see any other way to do it, then the hard way.

Here is some pictures og of the PC6.
Its build i a rather unusual way. Its honeycom made of balsa with glass/epoxy on both sides.
Its a strong way to build and very lite.

The fugelage weighs 7.3 Lbs.

Here's a couple of pictures of my project. The plane is 95 inches and I'm going to use a 120 Surpass Pumper!

I've added a 1" inch piece of 1/64" ply for my top trailing edge. Any advice on my design or pictures would be greatly appreciated!

As far as the actual pivot location for the flap, I think if you use the point where the flap is the thickest, seems to get me the closest to achieving a small gap at the trailing edge of the wing. Now I'm still working on the distance from the bottom of the wing where flap hinge will pivot, so there is two locations that need to be determined.

Hi

The litle piece of ply. Is that a moving part or is it glued to the tailing edge?

It also a good way to cover up the airslot that acurs when you are making slottet flaps!

Bankeost,

WOW, amazing work on slotted flaps, o always wanted to do this kinds flaps system on my Beavers but never actually got around to doing so. This is definitely an encouragement for me and other scale scratch builders out there. Thanks for sharing and keep those pictures coming...

Bankeost,

Hello, Yes that is a piece of very thin ply, that I glued to a piece of triangle stock! This plane is a ARF, so the trailing edge originally started off at a 15 degree angle. So I took piece of Triangle stock an ran it through my table saw at 30 degrees. I then removed the covering and glued the triangle stock and thing ply to the trailing edge, to get the new shape.

I'm still experiment with the the pivot point and making my hinges.

Thanks for the pictures and video, they answer a lot of my questions and give me new ideas on how to construct parts.


Tonights work! I got the shape sanded into the leading edge of the flaps. Took my time and made a pattern and traced it on the leading edge of the flaps and sanded to shape. Using Bankeost and pictures from the full-size Pilatus Porter, I'm going to use ply to make my hinges and glue them to end of each flap, with another hinge probably in the middle. So ply end caps on the flaps will have a bracket that will proturde down and receive the opposite hinge from the wing.

Finally back to work, the wife took off for the morning, so it's me and the boy.

Took some pictures on figuring out the pivot point for the flap. From reading this thread and other places on the Internet, I chose to use the thickest point of the flap. I also, used a compass to strike some arcs to make sure my flap would have a smaller gap at the rear trailing edge when extended, than the front of the flap on the bottom. Correct me if I'm wrong here people, but the theory here, is to have a larger gap on the bottom of the flap, with a smaller gap on the top, so the air moves faster and stays attached to the flap, to create lift. Please correct my thinking.

Here's some pictures.