abufletcher

I found some 2-part auto body putty that looks promising. Also I found some sandable grey "primer" (which is called "preserver" in Japanese English).

abufletcher

Here's a quick test of the two types of putty I've found. The first is a yellow one-part paste (which I used to smooth the form for the observer's decking) and the other is the "Holt's" two-part body putty (which smells very strongly of resin). For the test I roughed up a small block and then applies the two putties in a thick layer. Then sanded down to the wood, then sprayed with the grey primer, sanded that, and then finished with the "rustoleum" type spray. I learned three things: 1) the blue 2-part putty is definitely better and 2) this system of finishing seems to work and 3) I need to sand, prime, sand, prime, sand just like the WWII builders!

I love it when I figure out how to do something that other builders have been doing forever!

abufletcher

Eye splice:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBlvF...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r29A0tBM7Oo&feature=fvw

GianFrancesco

Is the end of those ugly crimped copper/brass tubes?

fliegertom

Hallo Don,
Welchen Durchmesser hat der Stempel für die Kugelpfanne?

Tom

wingwarper

I have an "Airplane Stays, Splices and Terminals"manual from Dec 1918. It includes tests of the various terminal splices. The interesting thing is a lap splice is as strong as the woven Navy or Roebling splices.

Balsawings

He certainly makes wire splicing look easy in that video.

Abu:

I've subscribed to every build since the Snipe and I'm very impressed with your ability to solve any problems you run into. I've been a metal worker, machinest most of my life and your work making the small metal fittings is just fantastic.

I'm getting ready to make the jump into WWI scale with an Arizona 1/4 scale Fokker DVII. I've read all the negitives about Arizona, but don't worry, I'm buying the plane from a friend who already has it in hand. It's the prebuilt and precoverd version (unbuilt, unpainted and NIB). Since I won't have to build the plane, I plan to take the time to add as many scale details as possible. Most made by hand.

In most of your build threads you mention using the Data Files. Where does a modeler get his hands on these Data Files? I'm trying to come up with any documentation I can before starting on the DVII and would like to get the Data Files. I'm also having problems finding decent 3 views online. Particulaly, I would like to find pictures, 3 veiws and any other documentation that will show all the hardware on the DVII.

At this time I'm also researching color schemes and so far I like Hermon Gorring's all white DVII.

Thanks

Bob Cox

Mein Duff

Hello Bob.. I'm sure Abu will concur...there are no finer detail DVII drawings anywhere other than Jim Kiger at Replicraft...pricey but well worth it.

http://www.replicraft.us.fm/plansets.htm

Balsawings

Mein,

Those do seem a little pricy but well worth the price if all the information is there. What is worse is I would actually need two sets. One of the DVII and the SE-5a. I plan to build the Fun Aero 1/4 scale SE-5a next. I'm also interested in the Sopwith Strutter. I'm not just testing the waters, I'm jumping in head first. [X(] I believe I'll buy the plan sets from Replicraft.

Any other info would still be appreciated.

Bob

Mein Duff

Bob, I belive Abu has the SE5a plans also from Jim Kiger...so he can attest. I have been working on my 1/4 scale SE5 for many years (many moves, different countries, marriage, etc.) I have built many of the scale parts myself including the functioning venitian blind cooling vanes in the grill, fiberglass valve covers and exhaust system, I still have the molds for these parts so can help you out when you get that far. You realize that if you go the complete dedicated detail route with the SE5 you are really in for a handfull..I have been working on mine for over 1800 hrs and still have 500 to go !!!
I also have upwards of 100 detail photos of Nr. 904 in Old Warden (one of only two original SE5's in existance) also a CD with many detail shots I can share with you.
Funny I am also thinking of the Fokker DVII as very possible 1/4 scale project....good luck and looking forwad to seeing your thread soon.

abufletcher

Well, my first attempt at trying to splice 0.72mm stainless cable wasn't very successful. But it was interesting. We'll see. At any rate, even if I can't manage the eye splice, I'll definitely work to hide a crimped tube.

abufletcher

The punch is 4.8mm (approx.) and the hole in the first plate is 5.0mm. The hole in the second plate is about 5.6mm. I just sort of eye-balled the whole thing and didn't measure anything ahead of time.

abufletcher

Bob, thanks for following my builds. You can order the DVII datafiles from this website:

http://www.windsockdatafilespecials.co.uk/

There are actually several special issues of the DVII datafile with just about all the historical information you could ever want, including markings. Regarding the Replicraft drawings, I bought the Sopwith Tripe plans and yes they are indeed stunning. Almost mind-numbing! I resisted the temptation to get the Snipe plans during my Snipe build partially because I didn't want to be reminded of all the details I WOULDN'T be including! Sometimes ignorance is bliss! Another excellent DVII resource are the drawings by Joseph Nieto, which are found in the MAN Scale Aircraft Drawings Vol 1 book. Years ago I ordered large format copies of these from the NASM. Sadly, when I attempted to order another set a couple of years ago, all I received was small copies from the MAN book. Like all drawings there are inaccuracies, but they wealth of information far overshadows the deficiencies in my eyes. Then of course there's Achim Engel's amazing reproduction of a full-scale DVII. You can't get more detailed than that!

The Arizona DVII "ARF" actually has a pretty good reputation.

Balsawings

Abu,

Thanks for the link. I think I'll get the data files first before deciding on the Replicraft plans. Big differance in cost.

I've been watching several of the topics on RCU and had noticed the good comments on the DVII "ARF". I had promised myself that I would never buy another ARF but the price for the DVII is just too good. I figured that by using the hours saved not building the plane to detail the ARF, I'll end up with a very detailed example.

Bob

TFF

I love the Replicacraft plans they are the best, but remember they are not model plans they are enough information to build the real plane. You have to add the model airplane parts; doing that will make a world class model but it is more than most are up to. There are many great DVII model plans out there.

abufletcher

A day of puttying and sanding (and sanding and sanding...) later:

abufletcher

So does anyone have any last minute objection to the color? I'd be using this on the cabane pylon, UC, top deckings, observer's turret, wing struts, tail skid, and most (if not all) of the fittings on the fuselage and wings. Basically if it was metal, it'll be grey. This is the scheme shown on the DF cover. But the Krakaw CI uses a greenish paint. The grey would be my only choice in terms of using the fuel-proof "Japanese rustoleum" spray.

abufletcher

Hmmm...[sm=50_50.gif] After looking at my cabane struts and then back at the DF photos, I think my struts are a bit too wide. The struts on the original look almost delicate. Mine look beefier. Even worse, at the moment the cabane struts and the UC struts would be exactly the same size. At the moment the struts are about 9.8mm wide. 8mm looks better. What looks about right is the width of the wood without the music wire. But once I paint them, I'm afraid they are going to look too fat. So I need to mark off the width and shave these down.

This is a perfect example of why it's important not to move too fast in scale modeling. Gotten give things time.

abufletcher

Much better! It's just a millimeter or so but it really makes all the difference.

CTDavies

I always tell myself, if I didn't do it a second time, it must be wrong

Mein Duff

I think the grey looks great...can't wait to see some graphite and dirt rubbed into those virgin pieces..
Know what you mean about having struts etc. look too thick after painting....this is the time to scale up your photographs best as possible to nail it down..you'll regret it later AND EVERYBODY WILL KNOW !!!![>:]

abufletcher

So true, so true! Maybe I should just learn to save all of these "first tries" so at the end I'd actually have TWO models! One for practice, one for show!

abufletcher

I've pretty much accepted that almost NOBODY will know (except me) and even fewer will care. That takes the pressure off.

*****

I should mention that I haven't even looked at the plans in months and months. I'm working almost entirely off the DF and photos at this point. However, I did just look at the plan view and the cabane strut width looks about right. My first try was actually wider than on the plans. The UC legs, on the other hand look just a bit too narrow on the plans (same at the cabane struts).

abufletcher

It looks GREAT in primer...if I do say so myself!

Trev

I do need to try that as well, it looks like the whole assembly is made from metal. Very pristine work!