TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
#251
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
David...not sure if you folks up there in the Hills get RC Jet International mags at your LHS. FEB/MAR 2011 PG 74 has a build on the Gloster Meteor. Similar flap issues with strength. His solution was Proskin 0.3mm fiberglass sheet has a base with 1/16 balsa sheet laminated...then he used a carbon fiber rod through the ribs for extra strength. If you get this mags...check it out....some good tips.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
The flap is skinned and weighted down flat. There's nothing else I can do. If it winds up a banana in the morning... It can't be made from wood. I will be open to ANY ideas.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
ORIGINAL: [email protected]
If nothing else...your arms will be ripped from lifting all that weight.
If nothing else...your arms will be ripped from lifting all that weight.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Banana FOR SALE!
The flap is strong, rigid and will work perfect in every way except it just wont STAY FLAT!! GRRRR!
I've now got about 3/32" of an inch lift in the middle. The only thing left to try is to hang the leading edge of the flap over the edge of the table and cap the exposed balsa with a strip of 1/32" plywood.
Feel like I'm building homemade Helicopter blades!
The flap is strong, rigid and will work perfect in every way except it just wont STAY FLAT!! GRRRR!
I've now got about 3/32" of an inch lift in the middle. The only thing left to try is to hang the leading edge of the flap over the edge of the table and cap the exposed balsa with a strip of 1/32" plywood.
Feel like I'm building homemade Helicopter blades!
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
ORIGINAL: dvs1
David, if you checked my question on the last of page 9 you would see that I asked about using fliteskin.
David, if you checked my question on the last of page 9 you would see that I asked about using fliteskin.
G-10 is sorta like PC board material that is usually sold in small little plates. Fliteskin is pure fiberglass sheeting approx. .007-.010 thick. The flap we are tying to build is approximately 3-1/3" wide by 39" long by about 3/8" thick tapering down to less than an 1/8" at the trailing edge.
Just (1) sheet of fliteskin costs about $50 bucks plus shipping (not saying it's not worth it). I have never used it. We had to order some extra wood anyway for this build so I added (2) 12 x48 sheets of 1/32" plywood to try and build the flaps out of wood.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Might as well try and finish this experiment out. I cut a small strip of 1/32" plywood and made small notches where the hinges go. I'm going to weight everything down real good and apply this strip to the leading edge of the flap.
#262
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
I get the scale of the flaps you are trying to build, and I am sorry but on my post I meant fliteskin, although Jose sells both and to my knowledge I thought they were made the same way, only G10 is thicker and flightskin is thinner and more flexible. Although you could still use G10 from Jose at fliteskin. His is pretty flexible, you could use 2 layers and overlap the two layers using epoxy to glue them together. Giving you the very large length you need. Or if you use the fliteskin route I would still use 2 layers with a balsa core framework to give you thickness. Either way I believe if you use 2 layers of either fliteskin or G10 is the only way you will have a durable strong surface that will say warp free with time and or environmental conditions. Just my thoughts.
I have used both and it is a bit pricey but both products are great.
I have used both and it is a bit pricey but both products are great.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Ok... Here's the deal.
I shimmed up the ends of the flap with 1/4" balsa, sprayed some glass cleaner on the skin and put 5 lbs of weight in the middle to reverse bow the structure. After hitting it with a heat gun, it now finally stays flat on the board.
Now... This doesn't mean it will stay this way. I have no idea what it will do over time especially with all that Beach air Pandi gets down there deep in the O.C.
Here's another fact to consider... This flap right now weighs 8-1/2 oz. without glass and primer.
I shimmed up the ends of the flap with 1/4" balsa, sprayed some glass cleaner on the skin and put 5 lbs of weight in the middle to reverse bow the structure. After hitting it with a heat gun, it now finally stays flat on the board.
Now... This doesn't mean it will stay this way. I have no idea what it will do over time especially with all that Beach air Pandi gets down there deep in the O.C.
Here's another fact to consider... This flap right now weighs 8-1/2 oz. without glass and primer.
#265
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
I think you will be happy with your decision. I think that you will find the fliteskin flaps to be lighter too. Are you planning to cut out the scale lightening holes in the fliteskin? It would help with weight, give you the scale look and still keep rigitity.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
ORIGINAL: dvs1
I think you will be happy with your decision. I think that you will find the fliteskin flaps to be lighter too. Are you planning to cut out the scale lightening holes in the fliteskin? It would help with weight, give you the scale look and still keep rigitity.
I think you will be happy with your decision. I think that you will find the fliteskin flaps to be lighter too. Are you planning to cut out the scale lightening holes in the fliteskin? It would help with weight, give you the scale look and still keep rigitity.
Not sure what's happened over the last 24 hours but the flap I built here has really stabilized and is really quite nice. It's a little hefty but totally doable. I think I'll build the right flap using the Fliteskin and keep this one just in case.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
I gotta pick myself up and keep going...
1. Need to get the right wing panel sub leading edge installed.
2. Right aileron needs to be built
3. Wing bolt blocks
4. Anti rotation pin blocks and dowel
5. Lots of top wing surface sanding
6. Upper spar carbon fiber inlay.
7. Wheel wells could use some work before upper skin is installed.
Whew... lotta work still left to do.
1. Need to get the right wing panel sub leading edge installed.
2. Right aileron needs to be built
3. Wing bolt blocks
4. Anti rotation pin blocks and dowel
5. Lots of top wing surface sanding
6. Upper spar carbon fiber inlay.
7. Wheel wells could use some work before upper skin is installed.
Whew... lotta work still left to do.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Our .010 (254mm) Fliteskin arrived so back to the flap drawing board. I will come up with a layout and design for today's discussion.
#269
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Here is another source for such material. I use this stuff for live, skinned hinges on racers. It should be a good solution to the flaps.
http://www.acp-composites.com/home.php?cat=257
http://www.acp-composites.com/home.php?cat=257
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Flap design for discussion...
3-1/2" wide x 39" long Flap Construction:
1. Scuff and Laminate .010 Fliteskin both sides of 1/8" balsa sheet core material using Gorilla glue.
2. Bevel trailing edge of balsa core.
3. Apply 1/4" x 3/8" leading edge and 1/8" balsa ribs.
4. Apply .010 Fliteskin to the top of the flap.
5. Use Dremel Tool to cut out lightening holes.
Now discuss among yourselves...
3-1/2" wide x 39" long Flap Construction:
1. Scuff and Laminate .010 Fliteskin both sides of 1/8" balsa sheet core material using Gorilla glue.
2. Bevel trailing edge of balsa core.
3. Apply 1/4" x 3/8" leading edge and 1/8" balsa ribs.
4. Apply .010 Fliteskin to the top of the flap.
5. Use Dremel Tool to cut out lightening holes.
Now discuss among yourselves...
#271
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
David,
I construct the flaps on my Fw190 using just the skin on the bottom, skin on top and ribs in between (full size construction). If the leading edge is wide enough, you may not need the top skin as I built the Dh Hornet flaps that way.
This should give you a rigid and light flap without the extra weight. The balsa core will not make it more rigid.
JoseG
I construct the flaps on my Fw190 using just the skin on the bottom, skin on top and ribs in between (full size construction). If the leading edge is wide enough, you may not need the top skin as I built the Dh Hornet flaps that way.
This should give you a rigid and light flap without the extra weight. The balsa core will not make it more rigid.
JoseG
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Jose... Thank you for that post!! It really gives me some more ideas. Though... I really like the idea of some balsa that I can bevel at the Trailing Edge for something to glue the top skin to. Maybe all I need is a 1/8" x 1/2" strip beveled at the trailing edge and a wider strip of balsa at the Leading Edge to accommodate the hinges like your flap design. I like it!!
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
DD look here
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...341&PN=1&TPN=5
this is how I would them based on our lasr conversation
or at least another idea
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...341&PN=1&TPN=5
this is how I would them based on our lasr conversation
or at least another idea
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
ORIGINAL: t_burley
DD look here
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...341&PN=1&TPN=5
this is how I would them based on our lasr conversation
or at least another idea
DD look here
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...341&PN=1&TPN=5
this is how I would them based on our lasr conversation
or at least another idea
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
I'm going to get back on this flap build tomorrow. Also working on my wife for a new Habu 32... So far it's not going so well.[:@]