scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
#126
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
Started with drilling the hex body.
First with a center drill on both sides and after that with a 2.5mm drill for M3 thread also from both sides. I am doing this from both sides because it is more difficult to drill a deep hole in once and risk that the drill goes off centre due to flexibility off the drill than doing this from both sides to half depth.
After that the 1.5mm hole's in the centre of the body for the secure wire and countersunk the holes on both sides.
All in all a lot of drilling
First with a center drill on both sides and after that with a 2.5mm drill for M3 thread also from both sides. I am doing this from both sides because it is more difficult to drill a deep hole in once and risk that the drill goes off centre due to flexibility off the drill than doing this from both sides to half depth.
After that the 1.5mm hole's in the centre of the body for the secure wire and countersunk the holes on both sides.
All in all a lot of drilling
#127
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
Next up an easy job; Tapping left and right hand thread in the brass body.
I place the tap in the the drill head and set the lathe at 100rpm. Only thing left is to push gently the tap towards the body and when the tap starts tapping the lathe pulls the drilling head slowly (100rpm) closer while tapping the thread. Just stop at the desired depth and reverse spindle until the tap is out again. Watch and listen carefully while tapping! Off course I do first all the right hand ones before changing to all the left hand ones.
I also discovered that investing in a good quality machine tap (in my case €20) and dyes special made for brass and aluminum makes the work much more easy, especially when tapping aluminum
I place the tap in the the drill head and set the lathe at 100rpm. Only thing left is to push gently the tap towards the body and when the tap starts tapping the lathe pulls the drilling head slowly (100rpm) closer while tapping the thread. Just stop at the desired depth and reverse spindle until the tap is out again. Watch and listen carefully while tapping! Off course I do first all the right hand ones before changing to all the left hand ones.
I also discovered that investing in a good quality machine tap (in my case €20) and dyes special made for brass and aluminum makes the work much more easy, especially when tapping aluminum
#130
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
All the tapping is done, I continue with turning the slightly tapered body's. The tapered angle is only 1 deg. in this occasion. After doing the first side, turn the body for the other side.
Watch out very carefully while turning so close to the chuck!
Watch out very carefully while turning so close to the chuck!
#133
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
ORIGINAL: geezeraviation
How long would this take you if you were just making the 55 turnbuckles and not taking and posting the pictures ?
How long would this take you if you were just making the 55 turnbuckles and not taking and posting the pictures ?
I think I can do it in a full day work (approx. 10 hours). But than I have almost no time to post photos an drink coffee
#137
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
Continuing with threading the eye ends with left hand thread;
To do this I placed the dye in the chuck and set the lathe at 100rpm again. Placed the eye end in the drill holder with a drop of cutting oil and push the drill holder gently towards the chuck. The lathe does the rest of the work. Just reverse the lathe's turning direction and the thread is finished.
After the threading it's time to flatten the eye ends with a double cutting blade with a spacer between the blades. Just place the eye end in a vice, set the mill at the right height and cut the eye end flat. I do this now with my mill but this prcedure can also be done with a lathe.
To do this I placed the dye in the chuck and set the lathe at 100rpm again. Placed the eye end in the drill holder with a drop of cutting oil and push the drill holder gently towards the chuck. The lathe does the rest of the work. Just reverse the lathe's turning direction and the thread is finished.
After the threading it's time to flatten the eye ends with a double cutting blade with a spacer between the blades. Just place the eye end in a vice, set the mill at the right height and cut the eye end flat. I do this now with my mill but this prcedure can also be done with a lathe.
#138
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
Teus
My little lathe is of questionable quality, it is from Harbour Freight (Chinese) and the speed only goes down to 200 rpm When I attempt to do some turnbuckles I will try to do the tapping operations with the lathe but it may be too fast. Will have to see how it works out. Thanks so much for the tutorial thus far, extremely informative.
Doc
My little lathe is of questionable quality, it is from Harbour Freight (Chinese) and the speed only goes down to 200 rpm When I attempt to do some turnbuckles I will try to do the tapping operations with the lathe but it may be too fast. Will have to see how it works out. Thanks so much for the tutorial thus far, extremely informative.
Doc
#140
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
Just finished with video editing My PC hates video editing but I was able to finish it:
Making the eye ends:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7gYv5zlyoo[/youtube]
Making the eye ends:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7gYv5zlyoo[/youtube]
#144
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
Next step is drilling the 1.5mm holes in the eye ends. For doing this I milled a special material holder in my vice to hold the eye end every time in the same position while drilling.
I am waiting now for some new steel bars to deliver before I can continue with the fork ends.
I am waiting now for some new steel bars to deliver before I can continue with the fork ends.
#150
RE: scale turnbuckles - is there a need?
Nothing Les, I am using this vice only for holding and fixing different TB items during machining. It's a cheap aluminum vice
For the real work I just received a new and very stable vice : [link=http://www.hogetex.com/precisie-machineklem-va-4.html]Vertex VA-4[/link] [8D]
For the real work I just received a new and very stable vice : [link=http://www.hogetex.com/precisie-machineklem-va-4.html]Vertex VA-4[/link] [8D]