Power for Latina's Hamburg
04-03-2004, 03:44 PM
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Power for Latina's Hamburg
Guys,
I am just starting a Latina kit called the Hamburg. The instructions say it can be r/c'd. Can anyone recommend the motor, esc, and battery system that I should use so that it moves scale-like in the water? I would also like to power some running lights and motors to raise and lower the shrimping nets. Any ideas?
John K.
I am just starting a Latina kit called the Hamburg. The instructions say it can be r/c'd. Can anyone recommend the motor, esc, and battery system that I should use so that it moves scale-like in the water? I would also like to power some running lights and motors to raise and lower the shrimping nets. Any ideas?
John K.
04-03-2004, 04:55 PM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
You are welcome to look at how Pat Tritle built up the
Latina Hellen here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=206282
[8D]
Latina Hellen here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=206282
[8D]
04-04-2004, 10:19 AM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
John,
I've built the 'Hamburg', maybe not very well (heavy), but 'fun'. I would recommend using a fairly large motor, something on the order of a '540', or maybe a geared '400'. I tried several motors in mine, a '280' that didn't work out well (burned it up), then an old hand drill motor that had the required power but was a 'booger' to run at 'scale' speeds (had to use the trim control for speed, not the 'stick'). Battery is a 6 volt gell-cell, and the ESC is a 'Traxxus' XL-1
(or is that a LX-1?).
I ended up with lots of ballast, maybe a bit too much (no idea what it weighs but it ain't light!). Another 6 volt gell-cell would have been much more useful than all that lead, but I'm too lazy to 'fix' it. Whatever battery you use, I would figure on it being non-removable (just too danged hard to 'get into' the model when it's finished, especially if you use large batteries).
Also, be careful when constructing the prop and rudder. They ~appear~ to be brass but they are not! Too much heat will destroy whatever kinda 'pot' metal it is.
There are many easier models to build, but 'difficult' is 'fun'...
- 'Doc
I've built the 'Hamburg', maybe not very well (heavy), but 'fun'. I would recommend using a fairly large motor, something on the order of a '540', or maybe a geared '400'. I tried several motors in mine, a '280' that didn't work out well (burned it up), then an old hand drill motor that had the required power but was a 'booger' to run at 'scale' speeds (had to use the trim control for speed, not the 'stick'). Battery is a 6 volt gell-cell, and the ESC is a 'Traxxus' XL-1
(or is that a LX-1?).
I ended up with lots of ballast, maybe a bit too much (no idea what it weighs but it ain't light!). Another 6 volt gell-cell would have been much more useful than all that lead, but I'm too lazy to 'fix' it. Whatever battery you use, I would figure on it being non-removable (just too danged hard to 'get into' the model when it's finished, especially if you use large batteries).
Also, be careful when constructing the prop and rudder. They ~appear~ to be brass but they are not! Too much heat will destroy whatever kinda 'pot' metal it is.
There are many easier models to build, but 'difficult' is 'fun'...
- 'Doc
04-04-2004, 11:17 AM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
LtDoc,
Did you have to do anything different from the instructions that came with the boat to mount the r/c equipment? Also did you fiberglass the hull?
John K.
Did you have to do anything different from the instructions that came with the boat to mount the r/c equipment? Also did you fiberglass the hull?
John K.
04-04-2004, 09:05 PM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
John,
I had some problems with the hull formers. After checking them several times, they just didn't 'match' up to the plans as they should. I 'solved' the problem by removing the 'odd' former (can't remember which one it was now). Probably because of the 'missing' former, the hull shape didn't want to come out like in the plans, so I just settled for the resulting shape (not like all the rest of the 'Hamburg's).
I planked the hull and filled with wood putty, stuff called 'Plastic Wood', and that was where a lot of the 'extra' weight came from (and a LOT of the 'extra' sanding). Finished the hull with paint, then 'spar varnish'. Also 'proved' for my self that you can't put enamel paint over varnish (LOL, paint comes off in very nice colored 'sheets'). More sanding...
Unfortunately, I'm allergic to the resin used in fibreglassing, and just too cheap to buy the 'non-allergenic' type resin. After all the sanding and re-doing, I wish I had fibreglassed it!
'Artisana Latina's definition of 'Intermediate' and ~my~ definition of 'Intermediate' skill levels must not be the same. Or maybe I'm just not at an 'Intermediate' skill level! I had fun in building the 'Hamburg' but I don't think I'll do another one. I did learn a lot by building it (mainly that I am not 'thrilled' with planking), and it does make a pretty boat, so I'm glad I did. I also understand that there are 'old' Latina kits and 'new' Latina kits, and there seems to be a big difference between them. I have no idea how to tell them apart, so not much help there.
Anyway, you will have fun building the 'Hamburg' and I hope you enjoy it.
- 'Doc
I had some problems with the hull formers. After checking them several times, they just didn't 'match' up to the plans as they should. I 'solved' the problem by removing the 'odd' former (can't remember which one it was now). Probably because of the 'missing' former, the hull shape didn't want to come out like in the plans, so I just settled for the resulting shape (not like all the rest of the 'Hamburg's).
I planked the hull and filled with wood putty, stuff called 'Plastic Wood', and that was where a lot of the 'extra' weight came from (and a LOT of the 'extra' sanding). Finished the hull with paint, then 'spar varnish'. Also 'proved' for my self that you can't put enamel paint over varnish (LOL, paint comes off in very nice colored 'sheets'). More sanding...
Unfortunately, I'm allergic to the resin used in fibreglassing, and just too cheap to buy the 'non-allergenic' type resin. After all the sanding and re-doing, I wish I had fibreglassed it!
'Artisana Latina's definition of 'Intermediate' and ~my~ definition of 'Intermediate' skill levels must not be the same. Or maybe I'm just not at an 'Intermediate' skill level! I had fun in building the 'Hamburg' but I don't think I'll do another one. I did learn a lot by building it (mainly that I am not 'thrilled' with planking), and it does make a pretty boat, so I'm glad I did. I also understand that there are 'old' Latina kits and 'new' Latina kits, and there seems to be a big difference between them. I have no idea how to tell them apart, so not much help there.
Anyway, you will have fun building the 'Hamburg' and I hope you enjoy it.
- 'Doc
04-07-2004, 02:38 PM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
LtDoc
I am also alergic to the resin in normal fiberglass having built a real sailboat for my daughters 8th birthday. I have been using a polyester resin that finishes really nicely that I found that I have no allergy problems with it. It is called ZPoxy. It smells a bit like fish going on but it covers well and can be cut with alcohol to put on fine finishes. I figure that I will put a light fiberglass cloth on the boat and then zpoxy it prior to doing any of the deck details.
I did want to ask that since you r/cd your Hamburg, did you try to do the electical installation and motor installation before your planked or did you do it after it was planked. Not much finger room inside the hull to allow easy installation. I wish I had done my motor installation on the USS Crockett before I mounted the deck. It was really nasty trying to get the rudder mounts, connecting arms, motors and mechanical speed control to fit.
John K.
I am also alergic to the resin in normal fiberglass having built a real sailboat for my daughters 8th birthday. I have been using a polyester resin that finishes really nicely that I found that I have no allergy problems with it. It is called ZPoxy. It smells a bit like fish going on but it covers well and can be cut with alcohol to put on fine finishes. I figure that I will put a light fiberglass cloth on the boat and then zpoxy it prior to doing any of the deck details.
I did want to ask that since you r/cd your Hamburg, did you try to do the electical installation and motor installation before your planked or did you do it after it was planked. Not much finger room inside the hull to allow easy installation. I wish I had done my motor installation on the USS Crockett before I mounted the deck. It was really nasty trying to get the rudder mounts, connecting arms, motors and mechanical speed control to fit.
John K.
04-07-2004, 06:45 PM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
John,
I mounted the stuffing box before putting on the deck, or the planking. You're right, it's possible to do the stuffing box etc. after putting on the deck, but why make things harder than you have to? The motor and electronics was done after the deck was on and the planking/finishing was done (battery went in with the stuffing box, forgot to say that before). You might be careful with the rudder, the control arm/servo rod/etc. The 'room' that you have to work with is very limited (had to cut out 'slots' for the control arm and pushrod after model was finished, no fun). A lot of this was just poor planning on my part, not thinking far enough ahead. The construction 'instructions' could be better (or maybe I should pay more attention?).
I learn best by making mistakes. Having said that, I ought to be the best builder in the world, I've made enough mistakes! Oh well...
- 'Doc
I mounted the stuffing box before putting on the deck, or the planking. You're right, it's possible to do the stuffing box etc. after putting on the deck, but why make things harder than you have to? The motor and electronics was done after the deck was on and the planking/finishing was done (battery went in with the stuffing box, forgot to say that before). You might be careful with the rudder, the control arm/servo rod/etc. The 'room' that you have to work with is very limited (had to cut out 'slots' for the control arm and pushrod after model was finished, no fun). A lot of this was just poor planning on my part, not thinking far enough ahead. The construction 'instructions' could be better (or maybe I should pay more attention?).
I learn best by making mistakes. Having said that, I ought to be the best builder in the world, I've made enough mistakes! Oh well...
- 'Doc
04-07-2004, 07:15 PM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
Doc,
Thanks for the insight. I will do the stuffing box next and then start the planking. Do you have any thoughts concerning sealing the hull around the stuffing box. I am planning to pour about 1 cup of z poxy into the site once I have planked the hull. I might add some lead shot to the mixture so that the hull is balanced.
John K.
Thanks for the insight. I will do the stuffing box next and then start the planking. Do you have any thoughts concerning sealing the hull around the stuffing box. I am planning to pour about 1 cup of z poxy into the site once I have planked the hull. I might add some lead shot to the mixture so that the hull is balanced.
John K.
04-08-2004, 12:58 AM
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RE: Power for Latina's Hamburg
John,
Sealing stuffing boxes isn't that big'a deal. I used epoxy (fairly generously) with lead shot mixed in. 'Zpoxy' should work just as well, and why not add the weight at the same time? Getting the ballast as low as possible is always a good idea, and since you'll be adding the 'zpoxy' anyway, kill two birds with one stone. I added ballast by pouring lead shot into the forward spaces between formers and then just covering it with epoxy. Doing so while floating the unfinished boat in a tub of water will allow you to 'balance' things. Just don't get too carried away with adding weight! It's much easier to add more later, after finishing the boat, than it is to gouge it out because you've added too much (another learning experience!). Before decking the boat, you might also give thought to using batteries instead of ballast (I wish I had). Removing part of the formers to make 'room' below deck for another, or more batteries, is a viable option. The 'Hamburg' will take a fair amount of ballast no matter what if consists of (5 - 10 pounds, give or take a few), depending on how light you build it, so why not make part of it functional?
One other 'trick' is to make the wire rigging and model's 'antenna' into part of the RC system's antenna. I just ran some left over rigging wire up the rear mast and connected it to the parallel 'antenna' wires. The range test was much further than I'd ever use, close to 1.5 city blocks (at that distance I can't tell which end of the boat was which, much less control it LOL)!
- 'Doc
Sealing stuffing boxes isn't that big'a deal. I used epoxy (fairly generously) with lead shot mixed in. 'Zpoxy' should work just as well, and why not add the weight at the same time? Getting the ballast as low as possible is always a good idea, and since you'll be adding the 'zpoxy' anyway, kill two birds with one stone. I added ballast by pouring lead shot into the forward spaces between formers and then just covering it with epoxy. Doing so while floating the unfinished boat in a tub of water will allow you to 'balance' things. Just don't get too carried away with adding weight! It's much easier to add more later, after finishing the boat, than it is to gouge it out because you've added too much (another learning experience!). Before decking the boat, you might also give thought to using batteries instead of ballast (I wish I had). Removing part of the formers to make 'room' below deck for another, or more batteries, is a viable option. The 'Hamburg' will take a fair amount of ballast no matter what if consists of (5 - 10 pounds, give or take a few), depending on how light you build it, so why not make part of it functional?
One other 'trick' is to make the wire rigging and model's 'antenna' into part of the RC system's antenna. I just ran some left over rigging wire up the rear mast and connected it to the parallel 'antenna' wires. The range test was much further than I'd ever use, close to 1.5 city blocks (at that distance I can't tell which end of the boat was which, much less control it LOL)!
- 'Doc
