grinder-RCU

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Wanna bet.....LoL .

grinder-RCU

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I guess i'm getting kinda immune to the size. The cabin you could park a Chevy in there. And I'm not talking about the toy cars we drive today i'm talking about Chevy's from the late 70's when bumpers were made from American steel. The hull won't even fit in the mini van. So that dictates that i will be buying a trailer this spring. I'm guessing this boat will gather some attention at the local pond and or lake.

Grinder.

trooper750

Do these boats actually have the scale pulling capabilities?? My friend is building a fire rescue boat from scratch and has loads of power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvkTJ...e=channel_page

grinder-RCU

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I wouldn't call it scale pulling. But I figure around 20lbs of pulling force with my tug when it's finished.

2003merc

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Truly a fantastic build! The size is unreal. When your done I'm takin a ride up north to see her in the water. Makes me want to get off my butt and finish mine. Really nice thus far.

grinder-RCU

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Thanks.

grinder-RCU

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Bowthruster, distrubution panel, radar motor, bumper for the bow came in today from CAL. Bowthruster tube is a bit short which I figured it would be. I just ordered the largest one they had from Harbour models. Check out the size of that 3v radar motor. Geez I hope I can find room to mount it somewhere. I also found a dealer in Can for pittman motors located in BC so it looks like I will be able to order a motor (s) from there. Also looking at the Dumas reduction drive setup. Probably will just custom make my own drive set up to handle two motors belt drive much like the Dumas set up.

Grinder.

Kaymac

Your choice of scale offers a serious opportunity to detail the build and has me thinking this might be my next project. I’m not thinking quite as big as yours but possibly something around 60�. I’m impressed with the accuracy of the laser cut and will go that way next time as well. Did you mention that the company will cut to custom scale?
I notice your choice of power supply and bow thrusters are the same as I used and I can say they work extremely well. I also use the MCD Switch 8 added to my transmitter and found it to work flawlessly. I use small 12V relays on it to power anything that requires larger amperage.
My only regret is that I didn’t use the 16 channel model instead of 8. All channels are used and there are still some ideas that I have and will need to upgrade to do it.

One of the options I’m considering is adding a video screen radar in the wheelhouse. I picked up an MP3 player on Ebay for $15 with the intent of recording an actual video of a working radar and loading it on this unit. Unfortunately, it is slightly larger in scale so I’ll need to mask the screen behind the dashboard to get the size right. Since it also has sound ( and an FM radio), I think I‘ll add some recorded harbour chatter and have it play in the background. The big problem is how to turn it off or on remotely…haven’t figured that out yet.
Keep the pictures coming, I know everyone is enjoying this build.
Good stuff!!
Keith.
[link=http://www.kaymac.ca/html/tugboat.html]AG II[/link] www.kaymac.ca

grinder-RCU

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Yes Martin from www.mraerodesign.com will cut to any scale you want. Bear in mind there will be a small charge for his time to redraw the plans and resize the wood notches. This shouldn't be to much of a problem as he already has the drawings in his computer now. He is very good to deal with. Tell him Joe sent ya.



[/quote]One of the options I’m considering is adding a video screen radar in the wheelhouse. I picked up an MP3 player on Ebay for $15 with the intent of recording an actual video of a working radar and loading it on this unit. Unfortunately, it is slightly larger in scale so I’ll need to mask the screen behind the dashboard to get the size right. Since it also has sound ( and an FM radio), I think I‘ll add some recorded harbour chatter and have it play in the background. The big problem is how to turn it off or on remotely…haven’t figured that out yet.[/quote]

Sounds pretty neat. But sounds like alot of work. Considering if the boat is out on the water that detail won't be noticed. But hey, if your up for the challenge why not.

grinder-RCU

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I have the smoke stack framed up and sheeted. Sorry no build pics of the stack. The build was going so smoothly i didn't want to ruin my rhythm. I'm currently searching for a source of lithoplate to cover the stack to simulate rivets. There is a couple of printing places in town that use offset printing.

Grinder.

grinder-RCU

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Here is some pics of the stack. Sheeted with 1/32 balsa. The first try to adhere the shim stock to the sheeting failed when I used 3m adhesive spray. Just made a mess and I was getting frustrated leaving finger prints all over the stack. Took a break and regrouped. Ended up using 12 min epoxy which seemed to work good. Made the rivets with a dressmakers tool. I laid out panel lines with pin striping and then gave it a light spray of black paint and lifted the pin striping off so I would have lines to scribe with a flat screwdriver. I have the visor made for the top of the stack ready to go. All in all not to bad considering I went by that looks good enough technique and just eyeballing it. I think the stack is a little tall but size does matter..............The first try at bending the sheeting didn't go to good either as I had the grain running the wrong way for bending. So I had to buy a second sheet. Once I figured that out it was a breeze soaking and bending. The stack will be white with black at the top. Still have more detail to add to it like a vent on the side, weathering after painting and maybe a horn on the front, a cap for the stack and some smaller exhaust pipes coming out the top. Oh yeah I used .004 shim stock from a supplier here in town. My goal is to have this tug look good from 10' away.

Grinder.

toesupwa

Thats looking good Grinder.. That stack looks REALLY good, nice work.

grinder-RCU

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Pics of the smoke stacks. 3 large stacks for the main eng and two smaller stacks for the aux engines. The large stacks are 5/8 and smaller ones are 11/32. I never solder brass before so it was a learning curve for me. I built a small jig to hold the pieces at the proper angles and used a propane torch to solder them. I wasn't sure what the melting point of brass was and thought they might melt. But they seem to have turned out well. I also have the frames mounted around all the cabin windows. I'm just going to use clear plastic in behind to simulate glass.

Grinder.

grinder-RCU

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I don't know if the stacks are scale or not to the design of the boat. But I think they just look cool.

Grinder.

toesupwa

Actually Grinder, you are not that far out...

Some nice work.. yet again, keep it up!

grinder-RCU

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I'm trying to get as much work done on the tug as possible right now as I'm layed off from the railway. I'll probably be going to back to work around May some time. Once I go back that will cut into my build time. So long as the money holds out I think I should have this boat done long before then. It's kinda nice being off for the winter. I've added a pic of train in Que to remind me of working in the winter time. I'm in S.Ont so it's quite not that bad but still sucks working in winter. The laser cutting really saved alot of time.

Grinder.

toesupwa

A fave film of mine.. "Runaway Train".... brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

grinder-RCU

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Just a quick update. I have the coaming attached around the top deck. I needed to fibreglass the last couple joints on the top deck but in doing so I needed to hold the upward curve of the deck. It was tricky but I was able to do it. Still need to add another coating of epoxy to wateproof the coaming and fix a couple of rough spots. I have also attached the top roof of the cabin which required soaking and bending to get it to follow the cabin roof line. I also installed all the frames around the windows of the pilot house. I painted the top portion of the stack Tremclad flat black. It turned out well. Note to self " don't paint inside the house during winter time " makes wife unhappy. Problem solved, chinese buffett. Could I add the cost of the dinner to the boat ,hmmm?. Our monthly boat club meeting came up and I wanted to see how much of a PIA it is to transport the tug. I took the seats out of the mini van, PIA right there. Got my son to help load all the pieces hull, cabin, boat stand, pilot house and off to the meeting I went. Got help to carry the hull into members house and set up there. 13 members showed up and Ahhh and Ohhh the tug with lots of questions and advice from the old timers which helps me alot as this is my first build. The most asked was "How are you going to transport it?" once ballasted and " Where are you going to store it?" Dismantle the tug and repeat the process to take the tug home. Nothing damaged "Whew!" Lets not try that again. Note to self, buy trailer. My plan was to custom make a twin engine mounting plate and reduction drive system of belts. But I think I found a reduction drive that might work. It is from MHZ boats and it is used for large cats with duel drives one on each side of the hull. The engine drive goes onto the single input shaft and turns two output shafts at 33% less rpm. So I'm thinking I can just reverse that and run two electric motors on the output shafts at high rpm and turn the single shaft to the propat 33% less rpm. It's kinda confusing. I had to read it a couple of times myself. Here's the link. http://206.206.85.209/xtdoc/Details....0&store=mhzusa

grinder-RCU

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pic of drive.

grinder-RCU

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I also ordered my prop from harbour models in CAL. 4 blade 4.5"x 5" I'm thinking this prop should in the 500-1000rpm range. Does that sound about right to you guys. With a 33% reduction drive system 1000 prop rpm would translate to 1330 rpm on the motors. So what if I use a couple of Pittmans 3700's on 24v?? What is the rpm of a Pittman 3700??. Anyways I can fine tune the motors rpm by running a belt drive to the "output shafts" with proper selection of gearing and belts. Questons ...Questions.... Questions... Planning ahead. Now ya see what i'm up against. Oh yeah did you see the price of that drive Ouch!

Grinder.

grinder-RCU

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pic of Atomic on the St. Lawerence.

Kaymac

"The engine drive goes onto the single input shaft and turns two output shafts at 33% less rpm"

Grinder, Your thinking seems to be right on here but the above statment makes it confusing. I think you meant 33% more RPM as is stated on the website. The unit is an overdrive system when the input is on the single shaft so it will slow down when reversed by using the single shaft as an output. This will be a nice setup when you done. Expensive but very strong.
The Pittmans are rated at 3700 RPM @12VDC (I think). I use them with direct drive on my tug and they perform well but am only turning 60 mm props.
Keith.
www.kaymac.ca

Kaymac

While on the subject of Pittman 3700's, I run mine through a pair of FR30HX Microprocessor Speed Controllers and run them about half speed. This allows me to use a pair of 12 Volt - 7 amp alarm system batteries and have no trouble running for a couple of hours or more. These are cheap and make good ballast. I buy them for about $12 each. I also made a charger out of an old home alarm panel that I picked up for nothing. Just some thoughts for you.
Given the size of you boat. you could use four or five of these batteries with good results.
Keith.
www.kaymac.ca

grinder-RCU

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After reading it again all i have to do is run my motors on the output shafts and prop on the input shaft and not change anything other than using the opposite shafts. Taken from the website. " MHZ's new dual output gearbox is designed for gas engines from 1 hp up. The two output shafts are counter-rotating to eliminate propwalk. The output shafts run at 33% higher RPM than the motor (input shaft) to put the prop RPM in a hydro-dynamically more efficient range. The housing is from pressure-cast aluminum. Precision steel gearing guarantee low losses. All shafts are supported by two ball bearings each. Gearbox is shipped without oil. A small amount of automotive motor oil or other gear oil recommended. "


MHZ
input shaft 2479rpm (33%)
two output shafts 3700rpm

So with the Pittmans at 12v and 3700rpm I could even drop it down a bit more to get to 1000rpm-1500rpm. I was hoping to keep them at 12v to keep it simple. Works out to 60% reduction to get them to 1480rpm's. Thats at full throttle so that means I could run around at half throttle. I could reduce that by running the right size pulleys mounted on the MHZ drive. Thanks kaymac for helping figure that out. Whew! now my brain needs a rest.

Grinder.

PeeJay333

Greetings, All. Today I received the Francis Smith plans from Bill Northrop at Bill Northrop's Plans service, cited elsewhere on this forum. Being somewhat of an "old codger," I already had both the original December 1974 Issue of Model Builder, where it was first published, and the Summer 1987 the Premier Issue of U.S. Boat and Ship Modeler, where it was republished, so I already had an idea of the pilot house configuration of the Smith Plan, compared to the Angel's Gate. I have spent the last couple of weeks noodling about the differences, and had I found this thread earlier, I would have found Toes' explanation. He ultimately provided an explanation again on my thread on RC Groups regarding the same issue that the whole tug being made of steel, the upper decks on many civilianized tugs were cut back to minimize topside weight.

I am leaning toward the former Army Corps of Engineers tug Forney. I found that the Great Lakes and Seaways Shipping forum at www.boatnerd.com has some excellent photos of the Forney under an article on converting the Lindbergh tug kit to R/C in the "Art of the Model Builder section of the forum. You can find links to the Forney and the William C. Selvick, which has a cut back pilot house roof, here: http://www.boatnerd.com/model/tug/realpictures.htm

During my research, I also found out that the Angel's Gate is the 327 ST (Small Tug) Design. The 257 Design also had an 85' hull that was nearly identical or was identical, popularized by the Revell "Long Beach" tug kt and the Revell Germany Harbor Tug "Lucky" with the front stairway and faceted pilot house. The faceted pilot house was a version of the 257 design built for DPC (Defense Production Corp.) and the 257 version with the rounded pilot house is the basis for the Hartman Douglas Greg. That discussion is here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=827506&page=3 So it appears that the Francis Smith plan could be used to build a 257 hull, with modifications to the superstructure.

As a result, I am tempted to build the hull as a "plug" for molding a glass hull, which would be available to do a 257 later, if I have not had my fill of tug building by then. I may just wait until I have planked the hull per the Smith construction method and do a mold before I add the rubbing strakes. By that time I would have a better feel for whether there is a 257 in my future.

In the meantime, I will most likely be "lurking" until the chips actually start flying. ("Honey-do's" and work keep getting in the way.) You gentlemen have certainly set the bar very high for this project and you are all to be commended.

Pete G.