This is my first real attempt at a scratch build.
Dual engine sound generators are the blob under the bow, top shelf, as rpm increases so does the volume until at WOT the engines are singing back and forth slowly.
Under it are the 8 big GM car speakers.
Next to them is the 120 watt dual channel amplifier. Next are spare speakers.
Size 24 deep cycle battery----Novak Reversing Super Rooster ESC.---Min Kota 41# thrust trolling motor driving a 1 to 1.5 stepup timing belt and pulley setup to the 2 shafts.

2---SS 1/4" shafts supported by 5 inner bearings and 2 flanged end ones to stop prop movement.
Prop Shop 4.5" X 5.0" X 5 bladed props---2.

2 roll off fish and 2 steel tube fish. Working on electrics of a 2.1" diameter torpedo is easy.

15 USN crew and 6 Australian rangers.

4--37 mm cannons-------6--twin 50 cal. in safe storage--------This is a "Gunboat" version.

Rudders are controlled by the largest sailboat sized servo.

LWL is 90# planes in 20' to 40' at WOT takeoff.

It is built completly of 1/8" Birch plywood as I never thought I would finish her.

Coming out of a turn and accelerating to WOT straight at me stands all the hair up on me.
The engines start to sing back and forth as they are almost synched. Have to hear it, to feel it.

Where do I enlist for this boat duty ?

Pictures of the inside please!!

I had to learn posting this old picture just to feel better about shooting my mouth off about a boat this size so often to others.

I have had film lose its color, like this shot, due to lack of use.

Entire inside is sprayed with light grey enamel primer.

41# motor and gears look lost inside.

This summer she will be assembled and running again.
I will get some good camera shots by other people.
I found a good but VERY touchy way to bend the bow curves of plywood.
Soak it with hot water. 2' X 7' piece ? How ?

Put the end into a BIG deep sink at a factory.
take it out and carefully pull up at the end till you hear a CRACK sound just begin. STOP
move 6" do it again.
I did it without knee marks at the crack points.
Put down marks.
START the FIRST crack bend on the one NEAREST the center of the piece of wood.
Move toward the end of the piece.

This puts the cracks behind the new crack bend you are doing. Safer. not perfect. But safer.

I did the 4 big skins this way with no problems.

If a crack does not occur with the same force ? relax the wood and pull it up again.

1 spot I did the up and down bit 3 times. NO RUSH!!

Most important with the plywood skins.!!!!!

Get sheets with the SAME SPECIE OF WOOD ON BOTH SIDES. NO knots splits. AA grade.

Real lumber yard always gets it right. Tell them you will refuse anything with patches or ugly uneven grain.

This was going to be 2 or 3 line as a reply.

Rich

Rich,
Some people are smart/experienced enough that only 2 or 3 lines are enough to get the point across. The rest of us need a little more than 2 or 3 lines. Glad you didn't keep it short!
- 'Doc

REALLY nice work -- Take a fibreglass mold off of that and you could be a really rich man!

Thanks Killick.
I have found a wonderfull replacement for building something after the 8'.
Small 18" solid wood boats that I make, paint and give away at school building classes. They assemble and decorate
I always thought a sub would be a challange. I am starting one.

Go with the times and switch from Balsa $$$$ to Blue Foam and PVC a lot less $$.
MUST wear a face fitting rubber mask type if you cut sand, or do any plastic work. Balsa does not extend your life either.

Retirement is great if you have a hobby and a few bucks extra.


Always keep modeling.

Rich