Scratchbuilding a sub...
#1
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From: Emmaus,
PA
I'm considering building a sub using some PVC pipe (4" -6" diameter) from Home Depot, and just casting the nose and tail out of bondo.
My questions are:
1) Will bondo work OK for the nose/tail, or should I use a different material. I know some of you have used it for endcaps on your WTCs. I'm not sure if shrinkage or weight is a problem if I use bondo (I have no experience with it).
2) Do you think that thick wall PVC pipe too heavy for a flooded hull sub? I plan on building a simple dynamic diver with WTCs inside. The kits I've seen have pretty thin plastic shells. I'm guessing if I use the thick PVC pipe, I'll have to add some foam inside the hull to get it to float at the proper level.
3) Where do you place the CG for a cylindrical sub. I'm guessing it should be in the middle, lengthwise, and somewhat below the centerline, height wise, so that it floats upright.
4) Are there any websites that have tips guidelines for designing your own sub (like CG placement, recommended control suface areas, etc.)?
Thanks!
My questions are:
1) Will bondo work OK for the nose/tail, or should I use a different material. I know some of you have used it for endcaps on your WTCs. I'm not sure if shrinkage or weight is a problem if I use bondo (I have no experience with it).
2) Do you think that thick wall PVC pipe too heavy for a flooded hull sub? I plan on building a simple dynamic diver with WTCs inside. The kits I've seen have pretty thin plastic shells. I'm guessing if I use the thick PVC pipe, I'll have to add some foam inside the hull to get it to float at the proper level.
3) Where do you place the CG for a cylindrical sub. I'm guessing it should be in the middle, lengthwise, and somewhat below the centerline, height wise, so that it floats upright.
4) Are there any websites that have tips guidelines for designing your own sub (like CG placement, recommended control suface areas, etc.)?
Thanks!
#3
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From: Emmaus,
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Well, I found out that the thick wall 4" PVC pipe will work, but it is quite heavy. The thin walled 4" (sewer pipe) might be a better bet. I bought a 10' length of the thick stuff, so I'm just going to use it!
Bondo seems like it will work well for the nose cone and tail. Gotta find a way to mold a nice spherical nose and conical tail, though. Tried a kids rubber ball for the nose, but when deflated, it's not so round! I used it as a mold anyway, and will just have to do some "body-work" with the bondo manually to get it rounded out!
I got some 1/16" thick polycarb pipe to make some WTCs. Now that I got it, it seems a little thin, especially for a 3" diameter WTC. But, I think it will hold up fine at the depths I plan to run at, so I'm going to just use that, too!
Haha! My hull material is too thick, and my WTC material is too thin! Should have been the other way around! Oh well, I'll keep you posted on how it goes!
Bondo seems like it will work well for the nose cone and tail. Gotta find a way to mold a nice spherical nose and conical tail, though. Tried a kids rubber ball for the nose, but when deflated, it's not so round! I used it as a mold anyway, and will just have to do some "body-work" with the bondo manually to get it rounded out!
I got some 1/16" thick polycarb pipe to make some WTCs. Now that I got it, it seems a little thin, especially for a 3" diameter WTC. But, I think it will hold up fine at the depths I plan to run at, so I'm going to just use that, too!
Haha! My hull material is too thick, and my WTC material is too thin! Should have been the other way around! Oh well, I'll keep you posted on how it goes!



