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ORIGINAL: AQUASUB

Hi there are several ways to do this operation first what size sub do you have ,what means do have in mind to actuate mechanism,how many chanels to alocate,how much do you want to spend?

I like the hydraulic method as seen in my posts its easy to build and is not expensive smothe and very realistic operation.Then there is the mechanical way its more complex and less flexable in tight areas and can be much more expensive.

Engle makes a mechanism for there subs its a bit costly but works very well.

One could emulate that same system in Tecnkics Legos and if the space is adequate it would do the job very inexpensively as well.

Those are some thoughts that might help.Just remember that it must be robust ,waterproof,low or no maintenance,simple and not cost much,to me its a challenge to make all of those goals from things that are readily available and are not expensive so have fun and see what you might come up with.

Dave



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0_hNDRKjMc though not the same,the method is there,just a diferent mechanism.

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ORIGINAL: Skip Asay

Unfortunately, the British designed folding bow planes don't use a link for folding. It's entirely possible, depending on the size of the boat, to use gears, however. These gears would be rotated via a link to a servo which would be the simplest and cheapest way to go. How to actually activate this is not the biggest problem, however. Keeping everything to scale will be the big hurdle.

Skip Asay

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ORIGINAL: Skip Asay

Well, if you're willing to deviate from scale, I would do as Dave Merriman did with the 1/72 Revell fleet boat. Just how it's operated is your call but, personally, I would use a servo.

Skip Asay

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ORIGINAL: AQUASUB

Hear is the list of Tecknics gears available,these gears are very durable with virtually no free play,bearing blocks and shafts to U joints are also available at super cheap prices,the endless applications of Tecknics to submarines systems is amazing!
Also if your hull does not allow for easy access to the forward section after construction, the mechanical method might not work out well as it is difficult to install in that area and when removing the casing the shafts and rods must re aligned exactly the same.
That is why I go with hydraulics as only the electrical to the ''in the wet '' gear pump is disconnected,the rest is already installed and is not disturbed.A mixture of hydraulics and mechanical gears is what is made to do the job smoothly ,realistically and very affordable.

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList...&catString=136

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