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Side track from DAK thread

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Old 11-22-2010, 03:32 PM
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YHR
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Default Side track from DAK thread

ORIGINAL: C4ISTAR

I enjoy running my HL Pz3 in the backyard. When the plastic hull, tracks or suspension fails, I replace those parts with new plastic parts.

It is far less expensive than going to a all metal HL hull setup. But most importantly the plastic hull parts require no real setup tweaking; run great right up to the point of breakdown and I can live with that.

The Tamiya Pz4 kit, as you guessed, combines metal to metal suspension parts with a few plastic parts and seems very robust after a couple of years of running it around.

John

I agree John. You can buy an HL lower Hull for about $20. If it fails, the repair is simple. A whole new tub. That is what differentiates these tanks from so much other Chinese RC stuff. They have realized there is money in being a parts supplier, and because of this we seem to have an endless supply of inexpensive parts to rebuild from.

This also puts into the question of re-engineering. If you can buy a complete new replacement for so little, is there really a point to the engineering upgrades. Is rolling resistance that important in IR battling. With the new 7 amp batteries and low gear boxes on the market, a slightly modified Heng long can be on the battlefield a long time even if it has been hit a few times, it will still move along.

Old 11-22-2010, 10:51 PM
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pcomm1
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Default RE: Side track from DAK thread

Just one opinion.

People like Daryl Turner are amazing and brilliant at designing and machining excellent solutions to fix Tamiya kit part errors, lazy in-house staff engineering and or suspension running design flaws.

Daryl has the skill to take a Tamiya kit to the next performace level and beyond.

Vendors like ETO,Impact, KH, Schumo and several others around the world can supply many different parts to make your tank look and run better.

But as you reckon, not all the Tamiya kits or HL builds require all or even any of those performance and detail parts to put together an enjoyable, good looking and running rc tank.

The powerful motors, stronger gearboxes, reduction gear setups are all useful and can be important tools for harsh action fights, hilly terrain battlefields or grass fields, but are really not required.

Just a couple of hits should make your tank slow.

Several years ago, I purchased from ETO gear reduction with black long can motors, 10 or 12 tooth pinion gear setup, and even at nine hits, it would still motor way from the fight. LOL. No one liked that that Porsche King Tiger, but me.

Past all that, most model tank and real tank combat is on pretty flat terrain, where they operate best for a variety of reasons. If you aren't interested in long drawn out tank engagements, stock gearboxes work just fine for me with stock motors.

For instance, my completely out of the box built Pershing running on flat terrain, or even in grass, works pretty good and only slightly less efficient against a fully decked out Pz4 or Jagdpanther.

But without gear reduction and 400 plus motors and correct gearing the stock Pershing won't climb well if it has hits on it.

So, I guess one way to look at it is build and tune your tank for the terrain your most often going to play on even if it just your wife's carpet.

John
Old 11-22-2010, 11:24 PM
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YHR
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Default RE: Side track from DAK thread

That is what I am noticing. The lower gear ratios, keep your tank mobile even with Multiple hits. The mechanical advantage obtained by the lower gear ratio allows tank movement until destruction. The current draw is less, and this added to the high amp batteries means you have lots of power on tap for the longest battles. Rolling resistance is suddenly shuffled to the back burner, as you just simply overcome it with gearing and amp power.

Just my opinion and observations.

But of course this is only addressing the functionality of the tank. I still fully understand and appreciate why people put time and effort into a mechanical marvel. It is a lot of fun, building something bullet proof!!!!!.

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