HL Bulldog
11-28-2010, 09:16 PM
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HL Bulldog
HI Guys
I'm going to bite the bullet and order an HL bulldog. Most likley with the metel uogrades. Where is the best place to buy?
Thanks
Harle
I'm going to bite the bullet and order an HL bulldog. Most likley with the metel uogrades. Where is the best place to buy?
Thanks
Harle
11-29-2010, 12:03 AM
#5
RE: HL Bulldog
To be honest Harle, I would recommend steering clear of the 'metal' upgrade version. I saw your other post asking about joining a club, and if you want to go that route I would recommend going for the stock (plastic) version and putting the money saved towards getting a set of the asiatam gearboxes instead. The Bulldog tracks are robust and don't need replacement for club use.
In my experience the HL 'Metal' version gearboxes are not suitable for club level use - they will reduce the tank to a pillbox after only a couple of hits due to the high mechanical friction inherent in the cheap diecast gears. They also tend to strip easily under the kind of stress that club level IR battles places on them. Even if you follow the break-in procedures here, I have found them to be less than ideal. The lower ratio's of the Asiatam gearboxes will also reduce the stress on the HL electronics, making you less likely to blow a board.
Hope this helps
Mart
In my experience the HL 'Metal' version gearboxes are not suitable for club level use - they will reduce the tank to a pillbox after only a couple of hits due to the high mechanical friction inherent in the cheap diecast gears. They also tend to strip easily under the kind of stress that club level IR battles places on them. Even if you follow the break-in procedures here, I have found them to be less than ideal. The lower ratio's of the Asiatam gearboxes will also reduce the stress on the HL electronics, making you less likely to blow a board.
Hope this helps
Mart
11-29-2010, 12:49 AM
#6
RE: HL Bulldog
Well i'm not a club member,but EX_PAT_TANKER is giving you good advice as he does belong to a club.
To me the best place to buy is where you get the best price and the best deal on shipping.
Your mouse is your friend,so compare prices at different vendors and see where you get the most bang for your buck.Where ever you buy I would have a look at Raidentech before pushing the buy button at anyother vendor.I think Raidentech still offer's free shipping on their tanks that cost over $50.oo dollars.Try the "CODE"-"CJFREESHIPPING" and see if they will ship it free along with what has been the best prices in the past.(i haven't bought from them for a while,but they had the best prices for a long time along with free shipping).
The Bulldog is a great tank..........
For what it's worth....... BIGMIG
P.S. If they are in stocka lot of times they are sold out of certin models........
To me the best place to buy is where you get the best price and the best deal on shipping.
Your mouse is your friend,so compare prices at different vendors and see where you get the most bang for your buck.Where ever you buy I would have a look at Raidentech before pushing the buy button at anyother vendor.I think Raidentech still offer's free shipping on their tanks that cost over $50.oo dollars.Try the "CODE"-"CJFREESHIPPING" and see if they will ship it free along with what has been the best prices in the past.(i haven't bought from them for a while,but they had the best prices for a long time along with free shipping).
The Bulldog is a great tank..........
For what it's worth....... BIGMIG
P.S. If they are in stocka lot of times they are sold out of certin models........
11-29-2010, 02:13 AM
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RE: HL Bulldog
ORIGINAL: Ex_Pat_Tanker
To be honest Harle, I would recommend steering clear of the 'metal' upgrade version. I saw your other post asking about joining a club, and if you want to go that route I would recommend going for the stock (plastic) version and putting the money saved towards getting a set of the asiatam gearboxes instead. The Bulldog tracks are robust and don't need replacement for club use.
In my experience the HL 'Metal' version gearboxes are not suitable for club level use - they will reduce the tank to a pillbox after only a couple of hits due to the high mechanical friction inherent in the cheap diecast gears. They also tend to strip easily under the kind of stress that club level IR battles places on them. Even if you follow the break-in procedures here, I have found them to be less than ideal. The lower ratio's of the Asiatam gearboxes will also reduce the stress on the HL electronics, making you less likely to blow a board.
Hope this helps
Mart
To be honest Harle, I would recommend steering clear of the 'metal' upgrade version. I saw your other post asking about joining a club, and if you want to go that route I would recommend going for the stock (plastic) version and putting the money saved towards getting a set of the asiatam gearboxes instead. The Bulldog tracks are robust and don't need replacement for club use.
In my experience the HL 'Metal' version gearboxes are not suitable for club level use - they will reduce the tank to a pillbox after only a couple of hits due to the high mechanical friction inherent in the cheap diecast gears. They also tend to strip easily under the kind of stress that club level IR battles places on them. Even if you follow the break-in procedures here, I have found them to be less than ideal. The lower ratio's of the Asiatam gearboxes will also reduce the stress on the HL electronics, making you less likely to blow a board.
Hope this helps
Mart
Actually Martin,
This is a problem that I am working on for the DBC's and the DBCRC2. David is working up some test chips, and I will sending them out to a few clubs accross the country! These will be called Heavy tank competitive chips! This will allow you ( In Therory) to be able to still move for your last hits, and have a 10 lb metal upgrade Heng Long tank, gear reduction will still help! But the problem now is the Tamiya and EL MOD electronics have more power to begin with,, and can still move down to the last hit! If you have a HL and metal tracks and even with upgrade gearbox and motors you can still become a pill box. Testing should be completed right before Christmas so look for getting your new chips in the new year, if all pans out! You can just send in you old chip for about $ 12.00 if get re-programmed and returned to you! If someone used this on a light tank then the individual clubs will have to deal with that the best they see fit. But this system is out there all over the world and the upgrades truly make the tank much better in most cases. so lets be on the same level as EL MOD & Tamiya ya!
The Blitz
11-29-2010, 09:31 AM
#8
RE: HL Bulldog
ORIGINAL: blitzkrieg65
Actually Martin,
This is a problem that I am working on for the DBC's and the DBCRC2. David is working up some test chips, and I will sending them out to a few clubs accross the country! These will be called Heavy tank competitive chips! This will allow you ( In Therory) to be able to still move for your last hits, and have a 10 lb metal upgrade Heng Long tank, gear reduction will still help! But the problem now is the Tamiya and EL MOD electronics have more power to begin with,, and can still move down to the last hit! If you have a HL and metal tracks and even with upgrade gearbox and motors you can still become a pill box. Testing should be completed right before Christmas so look for getting your new chips in the new year, if all pans out! You can just send in you old chip for about $ 12.00 if get re-programmed and returned to you! If someone used this on a light tank then the individual clubs will have to deal with that the best they see fit. But this system is out there all over the world and the upgrades truly make the tank much better in most cases. so lets be on the same level as EL MOD & Tamiya ya!
The Blitz
ORIGINAL: Ex_Pat_Tanker
To be honest Harle, I would recommend steering clear of the 'metal' upgrade version. I saw your other post asking about joining a club, and if you want to go that route I would recommend going for the stock (plastic) version and putting the money saved towards getting a set of the asiatam gearboxes instead. The Bulldog tracks are robust and don't need replacement for club use.
In my experience the HL 'Metal' version gearboxes are not suitable for club level use - they will reduce the tank to a pillbox after only a couple of hits due to the high mechanical friction inherent in the cheap diecast gears. They also tend to strip easily under the kind of stress that club level IR battles places on them. Even if you follow the break-in procedures here, I have found them to be less than ideal. The lower ratio's of the Asiatam gearboxes will also reduce the stress on the HL electronics, making you less likely to blow a board.
Hope this helps
Mart
To be honest Harle, I would recommend steering clear of the 'metal' upgrade version. I saw your other post asking about joining a club, and if you want to go that route I would recommend going for the stock (plastic) version and putting the money saved towards getting a set of the asiatam gearboxes instead. The Bulldog tracks are robust and don't need replacement for club use.
In my experience the HL 'Metal' version gearboxes are not suitable for club level use - they will reduce the tank to a pillbox after only a couple of hits due to the high mechanical friction inherent in the cheap diecast gears. They also tend to strip easily under the kind of stress that club level IR battles places on them. Even if you follow the break-in procedures here, I have found them to be less than ideal. The lower ratio's of the Asiatam gearboxes will also reduce the stress on the HL electronics, making you less likely to blow a board.
Hope this helps
Mart
Actually Martin,
This is a problem that I am working on for the DBC's and the DBCRC2. David is working up some test chips, and I will sending them out to a few clubs accross the country! These will be called Heavy tank competitive chips! This will allow you ( In Therory) to be able to still move for your last hits, and have a 10 lb metal upgrade Heng Long tank, gear reduction will still help! But the problem now is the Tamiya and EL MOD electronics have more power to begin with,, and can still move down to the last hit! If you have a HL and metal tracks and even with upgrade gearbox and motors you can still become a pill box. Testing should be completed right before Christmas so look for getting your new chips in the new year, if all pans out! You can just send in you old chip for about $ 12.00 if get re-programmed and returned to you! If someone used this on a light tank then the individual clubs will have to deal with that the best they see fit. But this system is out there all over the world and the upgrades truly make the tank much better in most cases. so lets be on the same level as EL MOD & Tamiya ya!
The Blitz
THAT'S AWESOME PHIL!!.......... ME WANT ME WANT!!!
11-29-2010, 09:38 AM
#9
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RE: HL Bulldog
Don't 3:1 gear boxes fix this problem Phil. My tanks with 3:1 can move right until the end on level ground
I also agree with Ex Pat tanker. The money you speed getting 3;1 gears is ,money well spent, and since I have made this realization, I kind of wish Mato would sell tanks with Nylon gears. Why, because I am going to swap them out, and if you go through the DIY conversion the Nylon gears actually work pretty good for this and are extremely quiet. Actually a mix of metal and nylon works best. THe gear back from the final drive should be metal, as there is a lot of stressed place on the small teeth of that gear. Nylon can strip at this location.
I also agree with Ex Pat tanker. The money you speed getting 3;1 gears is ,money well spent, and since I have made this realization, I kind of wish Mato would sell tanks with Nylon gears. Why, because I am going to swap them out, and if you go through the DIY conversion the Nylon gears actually work pretty good for this and are extremely quiet. Actually a mix of metal and nylon works best. THe gear back from the final drive should be metal, as there is a lot of stressed place on the small teeth of that gear. Nylon can strip at this location.
11-30-2010, 11:51 AM
#10
RE: HL Bulldog
If you order from Phil make sure to get 400 motors installed/w steel gearboxes....Ive tried 3:1's inmy bulldog and it just kills the whole effect...theBulldog was in its time avery fast tank...and it just looks rediculous creeping around like its a Tiger. Stick with the stock gearing and upgrade the motors to 400's(Phil sells them) and you will see a dramatic improvement in torquewhile not killing your speed too much...A lot of guys here go "3:1 happy" on everything,which is unecessary unless your running a heavy tank like the KV-1/Tiger/etc...but smaller tanks like PzIII / M41 were actually quick tanks so tokeep things to scale, better tokeep the speed up...the bigthing with the Bulldog(orany rearengined tank)is to add about 10-15oz to the front so as to put more weight on the whole track and not just in the back, this will give you a lotmore traction(especially with metal tracks).
11-30-2010, 01:22 PM
#11
RE: HL Bulldog
ORIGINAL: DirtyBird69
If you order from Phil make sure to get 400 motors installed/w steel gearboxes....Ive tried 3:1's in my bulldog and it just kills the whole effect...the Bulldog was in its time a very fast tank...and it just looks rediculous creeping around like its a Tiger. Stick with the stock gearing and upgrade the motors to 400's(Phil sells them) and you will see a dramatic improvement in torque while not killing your speed too much...A lot of guys here go ''3:1 happy'' on everything, which is unecessary unless your running a heavy tank like the KV-1/Tiger/etc...but smaller tanks like PzIII / M41 were actually quick tanks so to keep things to scale, better to keep the speed up...the big thing with the Bulldog(or any rear engined tank) is to add about 10-15oz to the front so as to put more weight on the whole track and not just in the back, this will give you a lot more traction(especially with metal tracks).
If you order from Phil make sure to get 400 motors installed/w steel gearboxes....Ive tried 3:1's in my bulldog and it just kills the whole effect...the Bulldog was in its time a very fast tank...and it just looks rediculous creeping around like its a Tiger. Stick with the stock gearing and upgrade the motors to 400's(Phil sells them) and you will see a dramatic improvement in torque while not killing your speed too much...A lot of guys here go ''3:1 happy'' on everything, which is unecessary unless your running a heavy tank like the KV-1/Tiger/etc...but smaller tanks like PzIII / M41 were actually quick tanks so to keep things to scale, better to keep the speed up...the big thing with the Bulldog(or any rear engined tank) is to add about 10-15oz to the front so as to put more weight on the whole track and not just in the back, this will give you a lot more traction(especially with metal tracks).
That's exactly what i did with my walker bulldog I put the Maxx 400 motors Phil sells in my stock bulldog and it goes much better now.
11-30-2010, 01:34 PM
#12
RE: HL Bulldog
Hey Phil, will the T-34 you built for me need the new chip? I plan on running it as a medium mostly, sometimes as a heavy. it all depends on thecompetition. The predominant tank at Danville was the Panther. Which really could be considered a medium if you go by German standards and the T-34 is going to make a great addition to the battle field.
11-30-2010, 01:59 PM
#13
RE: HL Bulldog
ORIGINAL: Panther G
Hey Phil, will the T-34 you built for me need the new chip? I plan on running it as a medium mostly, sometimes as a heavy. it all depends on the competition. The predominant tank at Danville was the Panther. Which really could be considered a medium if you go by German standards and the T-34 is going to make a great addition to the battle field.
Hey Phil, will the T-34 you built for me need the new chip? I plan on running it as a medium mostly, sometimes as a heavy. it all depends on the competition. The predominant tank at Danville was the Panther. Which really could be considered a medium if you go by German standards and the T-34 is going to make a great addition to the battle field.
11-30-2010, 04:17 PM
#14
RE: HL Bulldog
ORIGINAL: blitzkrieg65
Actually Martin,
This is a problem that I am working on for the DBC's and the DBCRC2. David is working up some test chips, and I will sending them out to a few clubs accross the country!
Actually Martin,
This is a problem that I am working on for the DBC's and the DBCRC2. David is working up some test chips, and I will sending them out to a few clubs accross the country!
.
These will be called Heavy tank competitive chips! This will allow you ( In Therory) to be able to still move for your last hits, and have a 10 lb metal upgrade Heng Long tank, gear reduction will still help! But the problem now is the Tamiya and EL MOD electronics have more power to begin with,, and can still move down to the last hit! If you have a HL and metal tracks and even with upgrade gearbox and motors you can still become a pill box.
Testing should be completed right before Christmas so look for getting your new chips in the new year, if all pans out! You can just send in you old chip for about $ 12.00 if get re-programmed and returned to you! If someone used this on a light tank then the individual clubs will have to deal with that the best they see fit. But this system is out there all over the world and the upgrades truly make the tank much better in most cases. so lets be on the same level as EL MOD & Tamiya ya!
The Blitz
The Blitz
@Dirtybird69
RCC's steel 3:1's are my preferred choice for the Bulldog and (Pershing) but with the problems Bill appears to be having right now I'm not able to recommend them to others, even if he did have stock [&o]. I haven't tested the standard ratio steel gears in battle (which are available elsewhere) - I had a set in one of my Tiger I's for a club test day, and it flew like a Porsche even with the stock 380's(!) but I don't recall anyone shooting at it that day... They might be a better fit for the Bulldog, but I just don't know how well it would behave after its down to it's last hit - I ended up fitting Tamiya Pershing Electronics to mine, and even now its still not exactly speedy... 480 motor's are on order
11-30-2010, 05:00 PM
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RE: HL Bulldog
Hi Guys,
I took your advise and ordered the Bulldog from Phil. Excellent service and very knowledgable. Phil, thanks for listening and thanks guys for recommending him. I will be using the original gear box to power a dual prop Landing Craft tank. I hate to see anything go to waste.
Harle
I took your advise and ordered the Bulldog from Phil. Excellent service and very knowledgable. Phil, thanks for listening and thanks guys for recommending him. I will be using the original gear box to power a dual prop Landing Craft tank. I hate to see anything go to waste.
Harle
11-30-2010, 11:57 PM
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RE: HL Bulldog
ORIGINAL: Panther G
Hey Phil, will the T-34 you built for me need the new chip? I plan on running it as a medium mostly, sometimes as a heavy. it all depends on the competition. The predominant tank at Danville was the Panther. Which really could be considered a medium if you go by German standards and the T-34 is going to make a great addition to the battle field.
Hey Phil, will the T-34 you built for me need the new chip? I plan on running it as a medium mostly, sometimes as a heavy. it all depends on the competition. The predominant tank at Danville was the Panther. Which really could be considered a medium if you go by German standards and the T-34 is going to make a great addition to the battle field.
This chip still needs to be tested, but it is designed for 10 lb tanks that just will not move after they take a few hits! But yours may need it as well. If you have the original gearbox and motors in the T-34, those motors ran off of 9.6 volts bofore and with the HL conversion they only run off of 7.2 so you may have a simular effect you'll have to try it and see..
Harely,
Should have an update for you tomorrow....
The Blitz
12-01-2010, 06:51 AM
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RE: HL Bulldog
My prime reason for running 3:1 gears is the fact the tank moves much more realistically. I don't care if is a Tamiya or a Heng Long, nothing says "TOY" more then jack rabbits starts and crazy direction changes. The additional 3:1 gear ratio develops the required torque to plow through things at a low speed. Here is a video of a stock Heng Long, with metal tracks, and the only upgrade being a Mato gear box. No El Mod or DBC electonics added yet to aid in momentum.
This video shows why I have 3:1 gears in everything. One hit away from destruction, you may have an issue moving, but up until then they power around after taking hits. In additon to this you need no extra cooling of the RX 18,
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X94FkiyEd5Q[/youtube]
This video shows why I have 3:1 gears in everything. One hit away from destruction, you may have an issue moving, but up until then they power around after taking hits. In additon to this you need no extra cooling of the RX 18,
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X94FkiyEd5Q[/youtube]
12-01-2010, 07:29 AM
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RE: HL Bulldog
I too have a Bulldog an agree with YHR the 3 to 1 boxes make a difference. I almost never run my tanks at full speed anyway. So the realistic operation at slow speeds as well as power is what I enjoy.
12-03-2010, 04:28 PM
#24
RE: HL Bulldog
Here's an option for steel gearboxes with the standard ratio: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Upgrade-Pure-Stee...d7596f4. He has them for the Pershing/Bulldog, too. I've asked and he said he didn't have the steel 3:1s. You get some power back into the 3:1s with the 400 motors.
12-03-2010, 09:20 PM
#25
RE: HL Bulldog
I agree the 3:1's rock, but again the bulldog was a fast tank and it just kills the whole effect to watch it creep along like a ww2 heavy tank...but to each his own.... in the summer when you getin some fine,loose dirt it's just too cool to see the dirt fly and a little dust cloud as you haul ass and go over bumps and such(looks soooo real). But maybe the Bulldog is kinda the exceptionto the rule(unless we getmore cold warera tanks)....
