dsvirus

I have discovered that I have the pro version heng long tiger 1. It has metal tracks, sprockets and gearbox. What is the best way to run it in. I think it may also have a 3:1 reduction gearbox, any ideas how u control it!The manual is in chinese!

:-0

YHR

With the cast gears you want to make sure there is no casting issues. I like to remove the motors from the gear towers, and then spin them by hand. If they rotate easily, and free wheel, you really don't have to do much. However sometimes the casting process will result in an imperfection in a gear. This won't mesh properly and when spinning them by hand you might feel a momentary binding or cogging. These are the things that can fry your electroncis. So you want to be sure your gears are free wheeling, and if they are not then find out where the problem is. Take a jewelers screw driver and address the problem.

You can then take some mechanics hand cleaner with abrasive in it and coat your gears in it.( Some guys use the tooth paste that has an abrasive quality) Run them for a few minutes, and then wash them under hot water to remove all the abrasive hand cleaner. Rotate them again by hand and see if they are now smooth and free wheeling. If everything is good , install them in the tank and have some fun.

On most of my tanks the gears have been fine. They have pasted the free wheeling test out of the box, and I have had to do nothing to them. So check them for sure, but don't think you will be forced to do anything with them.

dsvirus

Thanks for the info. What is the free wheeling test?

YHR

Just spin the output shaft by hand. Release and see that it free wheels for a few seconds

Dmon1996

No offence, but I've never seen a Heng Long metal gearset that spun free without breakin. Brass gearsets like Mato's seem tobe ok with out breakin, and Tamiya do not seem to need breakin as well.

I have broken in several gearsets with the following method - First, get two D cell batteries and valve lapping compound from an auto parts store. While gettign the lapping compound, get some JB Weld or some JB Quik. Dismantle your tank, remove the gearsets. From the gearsets, pull the motors. Mix up some JB Weld and glue the bushings solid with the chassis being carefoul not to glue the shaft in the middle. Set this aside for an hour if using the JB Quik, otherwise leave alone overnight. Solder the positive of one D cell to the negative of the other with a short piece of wire. Run off the other ends of the batteries - you will have 3 volts this way. Run first one moter then the other one way for one hour, then one hour the other direction. If you have any spare motors, use it for breaking in the gears - otherwise you can use these motors. Mount the motor in the gear set, add light amounts of the valve lapping compound on all gear tooth surfaces being careful to not get any on the shafts or bushings. Run the motor in the gearset for at least one hour in one direction, then reverse the wires to the battery to runi it the other way for another hour. You can tell if the gearset is done - keep going until the motor does not sound like it's surging at all. Try and balance the breakin in both directions. Once it sounds "good", disconnect from the batteries and remove the motor again. Clean the lapping compound in varsol or simular, then wash down with hot water and let dry. If you have it, blow the excess water off wit hcompressed air. Oil the bushings and gearteeth lightly with machine oil and spin the output shaft. It should spin freely with no tight spots. If there are any tight spots, run the breakin with fresh lapping compound until it is smooth. If done, be sure to clean the gear on the motor as well. And if you are using alkaline batteries, the pair of D cells should do the entire breakin process with power to spare.

I have had to do this for up to 5 hours to break in one gearset, but once done the gearset would spin for two seconds with a single flick. Anyway.... that's my method.

1sgt

Instead of using batteries, I use a HO train transformer. You can easily vary the speed and changing the motor directions is a flip of a switch.

Jim

YHR

Point made. Not saying anyone is going to be lucky, but the test still stands true. IF it free wheels you are laughing, if it doesnt spend some time on it.

dsvirus

wow thanks for all the answers. Ihavent got a clue how to do most of those things as it is my first tank and I have only just received for xmas. Is there a good guide anywhere that shows a full strip and rebuild of a heng long tiger 1 tank?

Sorry Im such a noob. Should I even run the tank without doing the above suggestions?

YHR

I think you should be OK. Just be careful. Take the top off and just run the chassis. If it runs smooth and isn't pulling left or right, you are probably OK. After running it for about 5 minutes, touch the RX 18 close to where the motors plug in. If that is extremely warm or hot to the touch, that would be an indication that your gear train is drawing more amperage then is good for the RX18. Then you might want to have a closer look at those gear boxes.

Spitvalve

Hi dsvirus,

Here's a good site (link) for learning about your tank, with good pictorials on taking it apart, etc.
[link]http://www.tankzone.co.uk/pages/hl_upgrade_hull.htm[/link]

And this site has a copy of the manual with its exceptional slaughtering of english. Good bedtime reading with a pint of Harp's. Wacky's site also has a great section with Tiger colour schemes. A must to check out.
[link]http://members.iinet.net.au/~wackywheelz/manuals/[/link]

Mike.

Dmon1996

Yep, you lucked out in getting the most documented Heng Long tank there is. Everyone has one, and there are so many variations of the Tiger I that no two are alike. I myself have a version that does not have fender skirts, which makes those tracks look wicked wide. Don't be overwhelmed, don't be shy about asking "dumb" questions (everyone here started out asking the same questions), and have fun with it. Remember that even if you do something wrong and break or burn out something, the parts are readily available for a reasonable price from places like MatoMart. Right now, I am ordering a a)Panther road wheel and b)the muffler for a Bulldog because a)I hacked it apart to get at the suspension (glue monkey attacked this one wheel at the factory) and b) I lost it while rebuilding it. So go for it, make it your own and don't worry if you feel like you're over your head- we're here to help. You will get a truly great feeling when your Tiger rolls out completed and to your design. Just remember to post pics for us to see.