Metal Hull Set Help for
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Looking at metal hull options. Need hull, metalroad wheels (want rubber tires), sprockets,idlers. Need complete suspension.
Asiatam set: $190 Metal/plastic hull, metal wheels w/rubber, no tracks. Torsion rod suspension. Pros (from forums): reported strong, very good suspension performance with torsion bars. Cons (from my
look at pics andposts): Complicatedcombo of plastic and metal - why? Hull attachment method looks big and clunky, reports of only fair function.Many small parts, screws etc and holes
in the hull necessary to have a torsionbar system. Idler tensioner system unknown.
Mato set: $299 on sale All metal hull, metal wheels w/rubber, metal tracks and gearbox. Coil springs in arms for lever-type suspension. Pros: no holes/waterproof, one piece all metal hull, simple assembly with many
fewer parts than Asiatam or Tamiya hulls.Upper hull attachment method not known. Idler tension design not known. Cons: opinions expressed on forums that torsion bars give better
performance (no data found, just opinions based on observation).any corrections
Tamiya (if I go the new Tamiya Tiger1 F/O Kit route): $575 new kit cost. All metal hull,plastic wheels, plastic tracks. Torsion bar system (holes in hull, hull space used, many parts). Idler tension system
unknown. Hull attachment details unknown.
Others?
Conclusion: Personal preference for simple, functional design and waterproof hull leads to Mato choice. The coil spring/lever arm should be fine for the road wheels - have seen no failure or negative performance reports. Key questions are related to appearance of the wheels, old vs new wheels (nota priority to me, yet, anyway). All those thru-hull fittings and the aded complexity of using plastic/metal for the hull personally drives me crazy. Again, just personal opinion of an engineer who has designed stuff. The Tamiya KT hull I have is fine, but it required sealing, bracing, etc. In my pinion, it could have been a simpler more functional design. And for $300, you also get the gearboxes and metal tracks.
Please add any corrections, additional info, commments. Thank you.
Dan
Asiatam set: $190 Metal/plastic hull, metal wheels w/rubber, no tracks. Torsion rod suspension. Pros (from forums): reported strong, very good suspension performance with torsion bars. Cons (from my
look at pics andposts): Complicatedcombo of plastic and metal - why? Hull attachment method looks big and clunky, reports of only fair function.Many small parts, screws etc and holes
in the hull necessary to have a torsionbar system. Idler tensioner system unknown.
Mato set: $299 on sale All metal hull, metal wheels w/rubber, metal tracks and gearbox. Coil springs in arms for lever-type suspension. Pros: no holes/waterproof, one piece all metal hull, simple assembly with many
fewer parts than Asiatam or Tamiya hulls.Upper hull attachment method not known. Idler tension design not known. Cons: opinions expressed on forums that torsion bars give better
performance (no data found, just opinions based on observation).any corrections
Tamiya (if I go the new Tamiya Tiger1 F/O Kit route): $575 new kit cost. All metal hull,plastic wheels, plastic tracks. Torsion bar system (holes in hull, hull space used, many parts). Idler tension system
unknown. Hull attachment details unknown.
Others?
Conclusion: Personal preference for simple, functional design and waterproof hull leads to Mato choice. The coil spring/lever arm should be fine for the road wheels - have seen no failure or negative performance reports. Key questions are related to appearance of the wheels, old vs new wheels (nota priority to me, yet, anyway). All those thru-hull fittings and the aded complexity of using plastic/metal for the hull personally drives me crazy. Again, just personal opinion of an engineer who has designed stuff. The Tamiya KT hull I have is fine, but it required sealing, bracing, etc. In my pinion, it could have been a simpler more functional design. And for $300, you also get the gearboxes and metal tracks.
Please add any corrections, additional info, commments. Thank you.
Dan
#2
In a word, go Tamiya. Best system around, proven technology, idler system is positive adjustment and basically bullet proof with one small addition. Plus you can't beat the price considering the electronics come with it.
Wheels are plastic, by the by, but I've never had a failure in 8 years on one of mine.
Wheels are plastic, by the by, but I've never had a failure in 8 years on one of mine.




