Hi Everyone
just a few pics of what i have made so far still working on stuff Stince was making a building today
made the pill box out of foam from some packaging material the foam is pretty cool krylon melts it to look like ashell hit it,a krylon spray can cap for the turretand back of it is some styrene
the barrel is a bbq lighter tip under the cap was a peice of a spray nozzle from a gardening hosea lug nut off my old sunbird a washer and a screw so that it turns (only by hand)
and the lug nut has add a bit of weight to it
some dragons teeth out of mortar some are still drying here and part of a stone wall the mortaris still drying also
let me know what you think still have some things in the garage but better explained when they are in the ground in the battle field and yes i painted the tank again
i think i will stop- and leave like this before the paint starts to weigh more than my tank does...lol ....oh and the bridge that i made just wood and picture hanging wire

Pretty cool. Wish I had the imagination to build such things.

Good move repainting the Pershing, it looks better. I haven't gotten past a base coat of OD Green and my first layer of Camouflage but I'm not real sure what I want to do with it anyway, other than plow around outside and chase the Kitties Since these pics I have hacked off the rear fenders up to the tail lights and cut the front fenders at an angle so now it looks almost like an overgrown M41. Its more menacing to look at and a much better off road since stuff doesn't get stuck in the Tracks anymore.

looks good I like your wall idea. Your Dragons teeth looks to be a good size.

Thanks guys

waiting to see if my mortar tombstones work out i have to have a cemetery part of the battle field is where the pet rat and skinny pig are buried...lol
here is the tank with camo net on it

nice tank Candycap

Hmmm...

Been getting the 'scratch' bug myself lately, with the weather getting warm and more sunny. found a surce for some inexpensive wood (Dollar Store trellis and garden stakes!) and going to have a go at a wooden bridge. I'm going to loosely follow the article that was in the first " Proving Ground " magazine. even though I'm a Canuck, I find using SAE easier sometimes... so it'll be roughly 48" long, 12" wide, with a 12" removable ramp at either end.

I'm still debating whether to see if I can make it in two 24" sections, one for possible later expansions, but also for ease of portability. Depending on how I do it, it may even allow a longer span to be 'arched' to get higher clearance in the middle.

If I can get motivated enough... and blow for that table saw, the LCM kits are next. I tried looking, but most of the saws smaller than 10" have no guts, and I'd be hacking 1"x2", 1"x4", & 1"x8" down for framing. They are easy to find as scrap (lots of house construction by Idjit's house) Its justifying the $200-$250, plus another $50 for a finer blade (most come witha coarse rip blade if at all) thats the rub. I may look at a used one from a rental place... or at least a recomendation from them on brand.

WhiteWolf
- another scratcher...

Not a good move on cutting the rear track guards. Front OK at the angled bolt connection where the mud and whatever is picked up is thrown ahead...that's the reason for the chevron design... but at the rear, (as we found out the hard way), causes mud to be thrown onto the back deck and restricting air to the already overtaxed engine. Better to leave the rear sheet metal in place if you want to be operationally correct. The red tracks also look wierd unless it's been operating in Fort Knox Mill Creek area..

i like the little gun emplacements. i'm going to make a bunch because i have a couple of nicks IR targets that hook to a 9 volt battery. They also have a relay attached to connect to a sound card driver so you can have hit and destruction sounds.

I sprayed the inside of the Tracks with Rust Red Primer in an attempt to help keep the Track Pins in place (CA glued now) Been meaning to spray Black over them and just haven't done it. About the only Red left on them is just outside the road wheels and the outer Track Connector the rest has worn away, and yeah I agree it looks kinda odd. I had already planned on picking up another upper body panel and attempt to recreate an actual Korean Era Pershing. I know you are a purist when it comes to your Tanks Can you recommend a good book that covers the overall Pershing development well ?

Airbrushler, here are afew pics of the building I made so far. The whole thing put together weighs less than my tank.
Plus the top comes, which is get for storing small bits or smaller buildings. Next step is to paint a base coat and the detail pieces.

looking good buddy going to be nice you did a great job on it

The best and most complete is Hunnicutt's Pershing.; Feist Publications; $$$ (Or order from your Library)
M-26 Pershing Walk Around; Squadron Signal 5706
M-26/M-46 Pershing Tank 1943-53; New Vanguard by Zaloga (misnamed as M-46 was Patton)
The M-26 Pershing and Variants ; Troy D Thiel Schiffer Publishing Co Berkeley CA

All cover M-26, Super Pershing, M-45, M-46.

The HL and Tammy are Korean Vintage Pershings. Color is pretty close on HL, but still, little changes have to be made and Chinese toymakers ideas have to be discarded if you want it to look like a Pershing.. You don't need another upper chassis...just eliminate the driver-bog aux periscopes, for the most part, remove or fold up the skirts for ammo stowage and toss the front and rear sections. Add fender braces on all 4 corner fenders. Remove the garbage stowed on the back and stand the jerry can up and rope/strap it down to the side on the fender by the tranny near the lifting ring..or stow it in the bracket on the right side of the turret. Do NOT add Tiger face! If you are keeping the skirts, add some "cable" or "weld' a couple brackets and steel strips along the sponson boxes to keep the mg ammo boxes from walking away. Photos of korean War Pershings will show these features.

Hope this helps.
Bill

Thanks Bill I appreciate your knowledge. I'm slowly starting to really want to make my tanks more correct. In small steps of course since I'm not much of a modeler. </p>

LOL the Tanker sickness is taking over </p>


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Airbrushler.. I'm looking forward to seeing how your projects go. Scale buildings are always cool. </p>

Candy, here's some of my museum work. Detail and accuracy is a must. All 1;35 scale and restricted to 22 xx inches. No one makes American WW I/early WW II soldiers, so I had to make them out of Australian & British parts.

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Wowie! All of your dioramas are dynamite. The truck in the mud is great...........
Rex

That is extremely cool ! I love looking at dioramas whenever I run across them. Pictures can never really do them justice.

The ones that really blow me away are usually large Naval Battles but any diorama is way up on my "Cool Scale"


Ray

had this old yellow dozer in the garage made it into one of the props that will be in the battle field what do you think added paint and vinyl stars i cut on my plotter some mud that i'm still working on and have to do some airbrushing added a higher stack

Hey, that's cool....why not induct it into service...bit too modern for WW II Island hopping, but looks like Seabees stuff.

Candy, naval stuff is neat...getting the "water" just right with waves, wakes etc is a trick that is hard to get just right. All my water stuff is rice paddies and moat trenches for VN.

yep that what happened to it , it was inducted into service...lol just use it as a prop i have to start making some buildings now i'll get somemore pics when it's done

Only the scale is correct.</p>

i only have half a guy to go by...lol it's pretty close

just tell people its a bucket seat



Wade

lol have to get some figures with whole bodies one day
here are the tombstones i made so far out of mortar