Hey guys, let me start off by saying I am a noooooooooooob in the R/C tank world. Literally. I used to be heavy into building model kits, RC planes and boats in my teens so I am no stranger to the hobby, but this is kind of like a comeback since I haven't built or flown or sailed anything RC since high school. I've always wanted to try out RC tanks but never really bothered investing the time or money, until now. Anyway back to the main topic, I just got my HL StuG today, opened it up, plugged in the 7.2 NiCd battery into the smart charger, popped it under the tank, and I got the light blink problem- in the horribly frustrating yet hilarious broken English of the instruction manual it told me to let it blink for five minutes..... 15 minutes pass by and still no love from the stug. I figure it's the crystals so I bend one of the legs outward a little bit, still no love. I've done some research and found out that only Heng Long brand crystals will work on Heng Long tanks. I really don't wanna go through the hassle of shipping it back and waiting 14 days where I can just buy parts for it, take the baby apart and repair it myself (part of the fun!). Can anyone help me as to where I can buy replacement parts/ what websites are reliable (especially those HL frequency crystals)!!!!!!!!!!!! I really wanted to run the bad boy today too and get some real weathering on it.

Also I was looking into upgrades like metal gearboxes and tracks, wheels and such. So if anyone can help me, give any advice whatsoever, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Scotch Plains! Nice, you are under and hour away brother! Welcome to the wonderful world of rc tanks! Dumb question here. Did you hit the key button on the controller and see if the tank starts up?
Upgrades are easy. www.rctankwars.com Tell Phil Yellowshaker sent ya!
Also, check out the NEAD site on yahoo groups. It is our tank club and you are right here in the area.

haha nice to see another jersey boy on here! i did hit the key, the very left bottom button that is supposed to turn the engine over and start the tank, no response. just a blinking headlight for 15 minutes. my primary need right now are the frequency crystals so i can get the friggin tank running, but am definitely going to do some upgrades. still torn between a 1941 invasion of russia paint scheme or afrika korps. will definitely check out rc tank wars!

Hi Flak88bait,

There are 3 push buttons on the front of your TX. The first one will start the engine. Then the tank lights will stop flashing and you can drive the tank. No need to wait then. The red led will be lit on the TX the whole time. Make sure the crystals are the same number and seated properly. Also check the tank antenna and pull out the TX ant. and make sure itis screwed in snug. Let me know how you make out. Where did you get it from? Here is a link to North East Armored Division. We are the only RC tank club in the metro are: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/queenspanzergroup/ We have IR tank battles right here in northern NJ and NEAD is 75 members strong.

Bob, NEAD CO in Bergen County

There are at least 8 NEAD members within 50 miles of you. You are not alone. I have almost any HL part you may need. Lets check the free stuff first. Bob

I checked the numbers on the crystals, they all match, and I even popped the top off and checked if the vehicle crystal was making contact with the circuit board. held down the key push button to try to start the tank and still nothing happens.

Check the three wire cable running between the reciever and ESC. Look for a broken wire

The crystals or this cable are the primary causes of this. Some Heng Longs have the wires soldered on to the receiver, and they break at the weak solder joint. Check there first.

I don't even know what the ESC looks like. is it a chip or a board? I opened it up and the only things I can recognize are the motor/gearbox, what appears to be the recoil system, a speaker, and a circuit board. I did see a black wire running from the circuit board to the antenna housing, and that connection seemed fine. If it's a weak solder joint, can I just re-solder it myself?

also, is RC Command a reliable website?  I've seen some forums where they complain about it.

search the forums here you will find plenty of information on that website and the results people have had shopping their

well, i believe i found the freaking problem.  when i was taking off the crystal in the receiver, i tore off the paper by accident.  the paper said 27.095 MHz but on the actual crystal it has a mark that says 26.640MHz.  I tore off the paper from the tx crystal, same thing.  paper said 27.095MHz but the crystal has a mark that says 13.5475MHz.  I KNEW something was funny!  Now I know it's the crystals, i just need to replace them.

RC Command is out of buisness, has been for a while.

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I wuz gonna suggest that you check that the frequency and that the am/fm part matched up...............

Been there...........done that...........it's called a learning experience.

so it is the crystals that have been giving me a headache.....

Yes it is . Talk to PHil at RCtankwars. Stay away for RC Command.

that's a solid copy. i also got in contact with the seller (amazing tech depot through amazon.com) and said they will mail me a new set of crystals. hopefully i can get my tank running soon!

I have just ordered a set of 3:1 gearboxes for my Stug.

These are supposed to arrive next Tuesday, I will report on them, once I have them and start the intsallation.

I did mine up as a Stug from Abt. 210, spring 1943, Russia.


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nice paint scheme! looks operation citadel ready. is this the disruptive camo?

It is one of the color schemes they used on them in 1943.

I got it from reading through my copt of "Stug.Abt.Brig. 210" by Karlheinz Munch, page 231 shows newly arrive Stugs in the Stalino area in march 1943.

The stugs at that time appear to be delivered in "yellow", then patches of green or brown were added in the field.

While I try to get the best quality job on my models, to the best of my limited abilities , I do think a lot of the field applied camo would not have been autobody shop quality. On page 240 of the book, they show camo being applied by teenagers in a farm courtyard turned motorpool in Russia, I am sure the paint jobs had overspray, bugs and weed seeds in it, to name a few imperfections

The decals came from Germany, here is a link to the supplier, there are several Stug decal sets on it;


http://www.peddinghaus-decals.de/ind...t&amp;Itemid=1
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haha you got a point about the hasty paint application. i did notice the yellow as kind of a base paint with added on patches of green and brown, maybe they were coming from italy too.

I think your 'limited abilities' made that Stug look incredible! Very nice job, very inspiring

what did you use to simulate rust/weathering on the tracks?

<div></div><div>It is a very unscientific process</div><div></div><div>I prime the tracks with a grey plastic-friendly primer from a spray bomb.</div><div></div><div>The actual paint is all airbrushed Tamiya acrylics, I mix the following until it looks good;</div><div></div><div>Flat Black XF-1 Major component, approx. 40%</div><div>
Flat Brown XF-10 Major component, Approx. 50%

Field Blue XF-50 Minor component, approx. 8%

Metalic Grey XF-56, Very little, approx. 2% to give a bit of a metalic glint


After the tracks are painted, they get a spray of Excel Glass Coating, Frosted (not tinted)

http://www.kgpackaging.com/products_...ssCoatings.asp


I am sure there are better ways to do it but it works for me.


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Here is another paint idea for you.

Krilon camo spray paint and blue masking tape. Tear the tape in narrow strips and be creative!

Rust is "Rustall", mud is Elmers wood filler and paint, dirt is paint, and the sand, rocks are real. Some dirt and mud is real too.<br type="_moz" />

Yeah, there's always the real thing.

At our first CAN AM Tank Meet on April 9th, there was the odd place where a few particpants picked up a bit too much realizm
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