I'm gonna try the "BubbaJoe"version for the conversion of a recoil mechanism on my Heng Long KV-1 and I have a questionabout the microswitch used. BubbaJoe's instructions on the RCCommand website show using a microswitch, but no part number or other identification. It is not the same microswitch which comes on the recoil mechanism originally on my KV-1. Can anyone (BubbaJoe?)shed any light on this?

Any microswitch with a lever to allow fine tuning (by bending it) the point where the barrel stops after recoiling is good.
They don't come in many flavours, except for the size (there are normal size and micro size ones, I suggest normal), with/without lever (you need lever), or with extra long lever (you don't need it).

Thanks Borealis,

I'll start checking out microswitches with the characteristics you mentioned. Have you performed the mod I'm referring to?

Frank

I have modified two stock HL recoil unit to work properly (fast back, slow return), as well as converted two airsoft unit to act as recoil ones (same principles). In all cases you you have to put a microswitch to feed the recoil motor and operate the automatic return.

As a side note, the Mato Sherman uses a similar principle to make the automatic bullet firing (i.e. the airsoft cycle is automated using a microswitch).

Borealis,

How important is actuation force? Ifound some rated at 35 grams-force and some at 50 grams-force. Rating of these is 3 amps at 125 VAC

I really don't know, sorry

2 amp and up are ok

BBJX,

Ialso found some rated at 1 amp. Will that be enough?

Can you give me the manufacturer and P/Nof the microswitches you have been using?

Cheers
Frank</p>

1 amp may burn up but there are no part numbers on the ones i use they are rated at 3 amp and are made in china

Hi<div>Can someone post the link for the conversion</div><div>
</div><div>thanks</div><div>
</div><div>Jon</div>

http://www.rccommand.com/guides/hlrecoilmod.php

Hi<div>
<div>Nice one Frank</div><div>
</div><div>That's why i couldn't find it on this forum</div><div>
</div><div>it's on RCcommand's</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks mate</div><div>
</div><div>Jon</div></div>

Here is the original thread on converting these guns that appeared on this forum.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8045309/anchors_8059932/mpage_1/key_stug%252Crecoil/anchor/tm.htm#8059932]971Wright thread.[/link]

Working on the conversion of my recoil unit, following the directions on the RCCommand website for this.  I am preparing to solder in capacitors on the recoil motor per the tutorial.  The tutorial says to solder a capacitor between the positive and negative post of the motor, and between the negative post and the motor case.  I've got a recoill unit I am modifying from my HL KV-1 for this.  I am about 98% confident I can discriminate between positive an negative on this motor thanks to the wires that are still soldered to it.  I also have another brand new recoil unit without wires soldered on, and I'm not able to tell which is the positive and negative post.  The motor posts are symmetrical, and the orientation of the two posts looks identical when you rotate it 180°.  Can anyone tell me how to differentiate positive add negative on these motors?  Thanks

there is a very small red dot on the + post

Bubba Joe,

I've attached two photos. The first is the recoil motor from my KV-1, ready to be modified. The second is a brand new, unused motor from a Stug IIItype recoil motor (without integral trunions). The motors look identical as fas as I can tell, but I can't see a red dot on either one. Can you clarify? Thanks

What have you been up to lately BUBBAJOE? I miss your build threads!


- Jeff