Fellow tankers,

I'm looking for a tool capable of making a relatively flush cut to remove a a mounting boss (such as what the standoffs for the Heng Long gearboxes). I could use a saw and cut parallel to the surface, but I was wondering if there is a good cutter (like a diagonal cutter) that could do the job. I'm thinking that Micro-Mark or Squadron may have something, but am looking for a personal recomendation of what works well. Thanks.</p>

fsciorelli:

Well, they make hobby saws that have the teeth all jagged one way, called a 'flush-cut saw'. I was tempted to get one from Lee Valley. Another option would be to use a dremel cutting wheel or blade to get it close, then use the edge of one of the cutting disks, or even one of the router bits, to file it down flush. Yet another is that Dremel makes that new cutter that vibrates back and forth, like hedge trimmers do, but with only one blade, now scissors-like on clippers.

It all depends on how close ya can get, what tool(s) you might already have, and which ones you might want to buy as you'll use 'em again later...

Mebbe a pic of the offending 'mounting boss' in question might help?

If its the 'molded-in' standoffs on the chassis bottom for mounting the gearboxes, I'd say Dremel (or similar) rotary tool w/ a cutting disk/blade to get close, then use it like a file to smooth it down.


Hope that helps ya out.

I use shears such as the Xuron (http://www.micromark.com/Xuron-Angle...hear,7464.html) in combination with a disk cut-off mounted on a Dremel. No one tool will do it all and most cuts will require some filing or sanding if a good finish is necessary.

Xacto blades and a set of good handles will do ablut anything. Dremel tool is something you cannot do without.

All,

My objective is to cut the boss shown in the photo (from heng long recoil mechanism) with a minimum kerf, and to remount in location indicated. The method for remounting I intend on using is to use plastic cement with a scew through the boss for structural support

fsciorelli:

Ah - Options:
[ul][*] If ya have a jewelers saw, use that. They are generally the thinnest, short of one of the japanese-type flush-cut ones, and I'm not sure you'd have the clearance for mosty makes of those.
[*] Another option is the thread-saw option that many use to cut hatches open with. Only problem I see is the thread slipping up due to the cone-shape of the boss...
[*] If you have one of the old and now-unobtanium Dremel wafer-saws (the super thin ones perma-mounted to their own shaft) I'd suggest that also, but on the slowest speed, as you don't want to slag the boss.
[*] Compromise - If you have a set of flush-cut wire-nippers (like Xuron or whatever) use that to just notch the boss flush with the casing by ~gently~ squeezing, THEN use the thread-saw method - the thread should stay in the notch. I'd advise against JUST the flush-cutters, as the boss will end up deformed and with a bevel on the lower end, if you don't mangle it beyond use.[/ul]

As for remounting, try some slow-set CA and then dust it with baking soda - its one of the cheapest and fastest reinforcing methods I know, but beware, it'll get warm, and ~really~ stink. Use a bit of styrene-safe lube on the screw to avoid locking it up when ya use the CA. Repeat the alternate CA then dust until you think you have enough reinforcing, then clean WELL... and perhaps paint over it. If it gets mailed, any 'dust' will probably make Customs freak, and they'll pull the kit to pieces, ~literally~ (Been There, Had It Done *wince*)

If you don't wanna use that method, you can make your own 'styrene putty' with an old paint bottle (Tamiya or similar), some sprue-clippings, and some MEK.

WhiteWolf

no matter what you use to cut that off you are going to lose a bit of it and it wont be as long why don't you use a nylon tube cut to size as a spacer

To cut it off with as little material loss ,use thread. Check ( You Tube) and find a how too video.

Gotta agree with Brushie here...

Easier to just scrap the stand-off, and make a replacement. Any used-up stick-pen outer would do (or hit up the dollar store for possibilities)

Plus if you use a bit of hose, like R/C fuel tubing, you get a squashable spacer AND a shock-absorbing bushing at the same time. Though in the case of a gearbox, its probably not the best idea.

In this case, its probably easier to replace the stand-off/bushing than to take it off as close to intact as ya can.

WhiteWolf

Going with the Xuron sprue cutter http://www.micromark.com/Professiona...tter,9277.html

and the Zona flush cut saw http://www.micromark.com/Zona-Flush-...-Saw,8298.html

thanks everyone for the input

fsciorelli:

Personally, I'm not sure the flush-cut saw will get in there without a VERY short stroke. The tab in the right of the picture would need to be at least 1/25" from the boss to get any stroke at all, and thats providing thats the flush side of the saw (which from the pic, seems not to be)

Then again, I've never had one of these, and dunno if they can flush-cut from both directions, but my understanding was ~no~.

Let us know how it fares...

WhiteWolf

Whitewolf,

Good point about right vs left from a cutting perspective. Gotta think about that. The slider to the right of the boss I want to remove can be disaasembled to give more clearance.