Removing old paint
#1
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From: Hamilton,
ON, CANADA
Hi Guys
I have a old tiger tank that I would like to strip the paint off and start again. The reason I want to is because there must have been some oil on the plastic when I painted it last time because it has seeped its way through and all you can see is there oil stain. I used auto primer and it still seeped through.
Is there anything that will strip it off to get back to the bare plastic? or is there something that I can spray which will lock the oil stain in and not have it reappear?
any help would be great
Jeremy
I have a old tiger tank that I would like to strip the paint off and start again. The reason I want to is because there must have been some oil on the plastic when I painted it last time because it has seeped its way through and all you can see is there oil stain. I used auto primer and it still seeped through.
Is there anything that will strip it off to get back to the bare plastic? or is there something that I can spray which will lock the oil stain in and not have it reappear?
any help would be great
Jeremy
#2
ORIGINAL: JerB
Hi Guys
I have a old tiger tank that I would like to strip the paint off and start again. The reason I want to is because there must have been some oil on the plastic when I painted it last time because it has seeped its way through and all you can see is there oil stain. I used auto primer and it still seeped through.
Is there anything that will strip it off to get back to the bare plastic? or is there something that I can spray which will lock the oil stain in and not have it reappear?
any help would be great
Jeremy
Hi Guys
I have a old tiger tank that I would like to strip the paint off and start again. The reason I want to is because there must have been some oil on the plastic when I painted it last time because it has seeped its way through and all you can see is there oil stain. I used auto primer and it still seeped through.
Is there anything that will strip it off to get back to the bare plastic? or is there something that I can spray which will lock the oil stain in and not have it reappear?
any help would be great
Jeremy
Easy-Off oven cleaner in the yellow can(use in a well ventilated area) will remove acrylics and enamels very well. It has worked for me on some lacquers, but not all.
#4
found this on you tube
i think it's for mostly Acrylics though
might have to check on some model building forums to see
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E93Ii...yer_detailpage
i think it's for mostly Acrylics though
might have to check on some model building forums to see
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E93Ii...yer_detailpage
#6
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From: Hamilton,
ON, CANADA
thanks for the link, I think the oil might have been on there before I painted the tank. I didnt wash the plastic before I painted and I guess it came back to bite me in the butt.
#8
Jeremy,
If you didnt seal the acrylics you can most likely get them off simply using glass cleaner (Windex here in the US) the amonia in it will cut the acrylics without harming the pastic at all.
To remove the primer (provided it was enamel) both EASY OFF oven cleaner ( yellow can-like previosuly stated) or brake fluid would work with little to no affect on the plastic ( again like previosuly stated always a good idea to test on a small area first). If the primer was a lacquer based primer you will have a harder time getting that off, as just about anything strong enough to remove lacquer will most likely damage the plastic as well. You may have to simply sand the areas where the oil is bleeding through back to bare plastic.
Whichever method you choose to use, once you get back down to bare plastic, make sure you wash it well with soap and water (some people like using Blech's tire white - sold here in the states at Wal-Mart in the automotive area), then right before you re-primer use either a purpose made plastic prep, rubbing alcohol, or glass cleaner to wipe down the plastic. That will remove any dirt, dust, and/or oil and help tremendously with adhesion.
Squid
If you didnt seal the acrylics you can most likely get them off simply using glass cleaner (Windex here in the US) the amonia in it will cut the acrylics without harming the pastic at all.
To remove the primer (provided it was enamel) both EASY OFF oven cleaner ( yellow can-like previosuly stated) or brake fluid would work with little to no affect on the plastic ( again like previosuly stated always a good idea to test on a small area first). If the primer was a lacquer based primer you will have a harder time getting that off, as just about anything strong enough to remove lacquer will most likely damage the plastic as well. You may have to simply sand the areas where the oil is bleeding through back to bare plastic.
Whichever method you choose to use, once you get back down to bare plastic, make sure you wash it well with soap and water (some people like using Blech's tire white - sold here in the states at Wal-Mart in the automotive area), then right before you re-primer use either a purpose made plastic prep, rubbing alcohol, or glass cleaner to wipe down the plastic. That will remove any dirt, dust, and/or oil and help tremendously with adhesion.
Squid
#9
ORIGINAL: dsketcher
Soak it in brake fluid for awhile. Be carefull though, some (not many) plastics will deform. Test in a small area first.
Don
Soak it in brake fluid for awhile. Be carefull though, some (not many) plastics will deform. Test in a small area first.
Don
Also, a least some types of putty will be removed with brake fluid.
#10
ORIGINAL: streetsquid
Jeremy,
If you didnt seal the acrylics you can most likely get them off simply using glass cleaner (Windex here in the US) the amonia in it will cut the acrylics without harming the pastic at all.
To remove the primer (provided it was enamel) both EASY OFF oven cleaner ( yellow can-like previosuly stated) or brake fluid would work with little to no affect on the plastic ( again like previosuly stated always a good idea to test on a small area first). If the primer was a lacquer based primer you will have a harder time getting that off, as just about anything strong enough to remove lacquer will most likely damage the plastic as well. You may have to simply sand the areas where the oil is bleeding through back to bare plastic.
Whichever method you choose to use, once you get back down to bare plastic, make sure you wash it well with soap and water (some people like using Blech's tire white - sold here in the states at Wal-Mart in the automotive area), then right before you re-primer use either a purpose made plastic prep, rubbing alcohol, or glass cleaner to wipe down the plastic. That will remove any dirt, dust, and/or oil and help tremendously with adhesion.
Squid
Jeremy,
If you didnt seal the acrylics you can most likely get them off simply using glass cleaner (Windex here in the US) the amonia in it will cut the acrylics without harming the pastic at all.
To remove the primer (provided it was enamel) both EASY OFF oven cleaner ( yellow can-like previosuly stated) or brake fluid would work with little to no affect on the plastic ( again like previosuly stated always a good idea to test on a small area first). If the primer was a lacquer based primer you will have a harder time getting that off, as just about anything strong enough to remove lacquer will most likely damage the plastic as well. You may have to simply sand the areas where the oil is bleeding through back to bare plastic.
Whichever method you choose to use, once you get back down to bare plastic, make sure you wash it well with soap and water (some people like using Blech's tire white - sold here in the states at Wal-Mart in the automotive area), then right before you re-primer use either a purpose made plastic prep, rubbing alcohol, or glass cleaner to wipe down the plastic. That will remove any dirt, dust, and/or oil and help tremendously with adhesion.
Squid
I've had a really weird time removing lacquer paints from plastic. I was able to strip a freshly painted Tamiya dark yellow(TS lacquer) with a couple applications of easy off, but on a tamiya racing green(also TS lacquer) that had a few months to dry, easy off barely touched it. I then tried brake fluid, but it didn't do much. It was finally able to be removed with denatured alcohol, which is kinda weird. Another body with lacquer came clean with a months worth of soaking in brake fluid.
BTW, if you used Tamiya acrylic, it should come off easily with a rag and alcohol.
#11
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From: Hamilton,
ON, CANADA
thanks for all the tips guys I appreciate it. 
I might have to go the way Craig was saying and sand downs the spots where the oil was and then reapply the primer and base coat of paint.

I might have to go the way Craig was saying and sand downs the spots where the oil was and then reapply the primer and base coat of paint.
#12
You may want to try this product. It is made by Scalecoat same company that makes Polly S paint. I have used it on oil based, and water based paints. Tamiya, Testors, Polly S, and Model Master. It cuts them all and does not craze the plastic of your model. I use a medium tooth brush and just work it over the model to strip the paint. I use it over a plastic pan so I can recycle it to use again after I filter it through cloth back into the bottle. Use rubber glove if you use it.
Most Hobby shops with a good train section will carry it, but here is a web site for you to see what it looks like.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Scale.../smz-10568.htm
Most Hobby shops with a good train section will carry it, but here is a web site for you to see what it looks like.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Scale.../smz-10568.htm



