MAUS45

I am working on an HL Stug III G that will eventually become a Stug III based on the Panzer III M chassis. I have already taken it apart and stripped out the electronics. I have started on the lower hull by grinding off the escape hatches on the sides and filling in the switch and screw holes as well. I also cut off the return rollers and repositioned them. I cut off the idler to upgrade to the Asiatam idler that can be adjusted.

I am trying a process, that is new to me, that gives the surface of the armor plate, not a cast look, but a rolled steel look. Not to smooth a surface. Anyway, here are some pictures to show my progress with this build over all and the texture to see what you guys think?

sevoblast

OK, what process are you using?

MAUS45

I am not sure if I should share this secret process??? LOL!!! No secrets here I am all about sharing. I first used Testors Liquid Cement with a "Medium" tooth brush. Medium being the stiffness rating of the brush. Ya do not want to use a metal or steel brush, it is too stiff. I used a an old flat paint brush to brush on the liquid cement and then when the surface was soft I used the tooth brush to stipple or press into the surface to get the look I wanted. These HL tanks seem to be made out of some form of ABS, so when the Testors didn't work for me I tried Plastruct's liquid cement to get the surface to do what i wanted it to do. It takes practice to know or get the feel for when the plastic is ready to work, but once I had the feel for it I was able to work 3-4 inch sections easily. It took me maybe two hours to do the whole lower hull.

godowar

would love to see a youtube video on this process.

would that be possible?

philipat

I'm not a texture expert...but it looks good to me.

I agree that a youtube video would be nice.

MAUS45

I will have to see about that? I do not have access to a video camera, but I may have a friend that would loan me theirs to do it. If that falls through I could at least do some photos of each step. Its not a difficult process, just takes practice. Let me about that video camera?

Rudy

Panther G

It really does look good Maus. One of the better results I have seen. Been working on and with metal of all types for a long time and that is pretty darn close. Maybe a little too deep in some places but very good.

Rex Ross

I would like to see a video too!

MAUS45

Thanks "G". Yep, got a little zealous close to the idler wheel position on the left hand side. That's where I started with the Plastruct Liquid Cement to see if it would soften the plastic where the Testors wouldn't. Hadn't used it and I brushed to much on and there you have it! But it wouldn't be fun if ya didn't have some scary stuff. I should have let it set just a little longer before I attacked it with the tooth brush.

Rex, I hope I can do the video, but it all depends on if I can barrow a video cam from a friend. Gonna try real hard, may have to grease the tracks with there favorite liquid refreshment!! Thanks for your interest in this.

philipat

If you have a digital camera, check it for a video mode.  Many of the digital cameras can take some video.

MAUS45

I will look into that to. Thanks PhiliPat.

Shark27

Maus,
It looks good, don't worry about overdoing ita little, paint will fill it in and smooth it somewhat especially if you use primer first.
Steve

MAUS45

Thanks Steve. I agree it will work for what I am doing. I always do a primer coat, but I am going to try a different method for pre-shading/weathering I have seen others use here on this site. Should help to tone down the spots that need it.

MAUS45

Ok, I still do not have access to a video cam, so maybe Santa will bring me one, but in the meantime I will take some sequence photos. This should give you the idea of what needs to be done. Like I said before it is really simple and just a matter of practice makes it look the way you want it to look!

karel47

nice addition maus good work man very efficient and cheap to thanks for sharing it

philipat

Were there pictures? Idon't see any.

karel47

it is almost the same proces i use on my tanks with cellulose thinner, its the same result good find man

MAUS45

Ok, still unable to borrow a Video cam, but here are some step by step photos that should give you the general Idea.

1st Photo: Shows the tools I used for this process. Plastruct Plastic Weld, which works best on the HL tanks because they seem to be made of ABS. I use Testors Plastic Cement for the Tamiya Tanks. The Tooth Brush is a "Medium Bristle" Brush. Not to stiff but stiff enough for what needs to be done. Next is a 400 grit sanding block. I use it to scuff up the paint so the liquid cement will get to the plastic surface easier. I like the sanding block, but one could use sand paper as well.

2nd Photo: Shows the sanding phase. just enough to allow the liquid cement to work through the paint to attack the surface of the plastic.

3rd Photo: shows the application of the liquid cement. If you look close to the bottom of the area I applied the cement to you will see where I tested it with the tooth brush to see if it was ready to work.

4th Photo: I added a small amount or thin coat of cement again and worked it with the tooth brush just pressing the bristles into the plastic from different directions.

5th Photo: I let the area dry so you would be able to see the effect on the plastic. All I do from this point on is work another area the same size and blend the area's together.

It's easy just takes practice to get the look you want. So grab a piece of plastic scrap and try it out. Once you try it you will see what I mean about easy.

MAUS45

This is what I am trying to match in texture...

philipat

Nice tutorial.

Do you layer it on in that spot or just spread out a couple of drops?

Rex Ross

[quote]ORIGINAL: MAUS45

Ok, still unable to borrow a Video cam, but here are some step by step photos that should give you the general Idea.

~~~~~~~~

Thanks for the step by step photos. That confirms how I thought you were doing that. I'm going to do some practicing with your method this afternoon.

Rex

MAUS45

There is a brush attached to the cap of the liquid cement. I use this brush to spread the liquid cement over the area I want to work. The amount of cement the brush picks up is usually what I use. In some cases, depending on how the surface of the plastic reacts to the cement, I may spread another layer or small amount of liquid cement to soften it up a little more.

If you look at the photo, where I first applied the liquid cement, you can just make out where I tested the surface with the tooth brush to see if it was ready to work. It needed a little more liquid cement to work it. So I added a thin layer of liquid cement, which you may be able to see in the photo with the tooth brush being used on the plastic. I do not use a specific amount of liquid cement. I just test the surface of the plastic to see if it is ready to work and then add liquid cement if the surface is not soft enough to work. Just takes practice to get a feel of how much needs to be used. Hope this helps to answer your question.

philipat

Cool...I'll have to try this one. Thanks.

MAUS45

Thanks, Rex and Philipat. I think once you try it you will see how easy it really is.

bhop73

My friend made a video of this technique a year or two ago.. it's a Gundam model, but the same techniques apply.

http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=1417