DB2/DB3 Problem
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Scottsale,
AZ
I think I should stick with screwing in light builbs.
I have a DB3/TBS with Impact Apple. When I turn on the power to my KT and turn on power to the TX, the KT immediately starts up. When i move the throttle up (elevator) to the save/start position, the tank turns off and restarts itself.
Plus, when it autostarts, the lights on the Apple come on and stay on.
If i turn off the TX and turn it back on, the Apple will turn off.
When i put the Jumper on the DB3 to "hardwire" the configuration, the Apple is lit up and when I save the configuration, the Apple turns the lights off. It's the reverse of what it should be.
There is no delay in the firing sequence. I can fire the cannon constantly. This seems to come and go.
It appears that I have the LED circuit from the Apple to the DB3 reversed. The Apple LED's come on when they should go off and vice versa.
Except, I traced all leads and the are correct....
Anyone have any ideas?
I swear I'm about ready to toss it and order a Clarke board except I have to use a SERVO for the elevation and I don't think that works with a Clarke board?
Thanks
tjs
I have a DB3/TBS with Impact Apple. When I turn on the power to my KT and turn on power to the TX, the KT immediately starts up. When i move the throttle up (elevator) to the save/start position, the tank turns off and restarts itself.
Plus, when it autostarts, the lights on the Apple come on and stay on.
If i turn off the TX and turn it back on, the Apple will turn off.
When i put the Jumper on the DB3 to "hardwire" the configuration, the Apple is lit up and when I save the configuration, the Apple turns the lights off. It's the reverse of what it should be.
There is no delay in the firing sequence. I can fire the cannon constantly. This seems to come and go.
It appears that I have the LED circuit from the Apple to the DB3 reversed. The Apple LED's come on when they should go off and vice versa.
Except, I traced all leads and the are correct....
Anyone have any ideas?
I swear I'm about ready to toss it and order a Clarke board except I have to use a SERVO for the elevation and I don't think that works with a Clarke board?
Thanks
tjs
#2
Just mail Dan ( YHR ) I am pretty sure he can resolve your DBC questions. <div>
</div><div>Chucking the DBC for a clark board is not really going to help you as it sounds like something is not hooked up right or it feeds to the wrong connection. If it is a wiring thing don't matter who's boards you have, an issue will be there.</div><div>On top of that the clark boards don't have the DBC track record yet, Clark hasits own issues.</div>
</div><div>Chucking the DBC for a clark board is not really going to help you as it sounds like something is not hooked up right or it feeds to the wrong connection. If it is a wiring thing don't matter who's boards you have, an issue will be there.</div><div>On top of that the clark boards don't have the DBC track record yet, Clark hasits own issues.</div>
#3
Senior Member
Todd
There is something obviously wrong. My first reaction would be for you to check the battery to make sure it is fully charged.
If I remember correctly you had wired this all up into larger bigger board with multiple wiring and soldered connections. The DBC is sensitive to voltage flucuations as that is how the internal signaling is carried out.
As the delay on the reload isn't working I would suspect there is something going on in your Apple wiring. The DBC has no delay when there is no apple connected. The fact you have no delay could be an indication that something is up with that part of the circuit. Also because you say this seems to come and go, it points to some cold soldered joint somewhere that is opening and closing.(?)
Try removing the DBC3 from your ciruit board, and test it on its own to remove as much of the external wiring you have done. If I remember that was a very ambitious looking board you built.
If you have fully charged batteries, Try removing the apple in the circuit and see what happens.
THe Clark board is fully functional. The only remaining issue seems to be that the Clark board willl not take hits from the Tamiya Leo so there still is some concern on its compatibility .
Cheers
There is something obviously wrong. My first reaction would be for you to check the battery to make sure it is fully charged.
If I remember correctly you had wired this all up into larger bigger board with multiple wiring and soldered connections. The DBC is sensitive to voltage flucuations as that is how the internal signaling is carried out.
As the delay on the reload isn't working I would suspect there is something going on in your Apple wiring. The DBC has no delay when there is no apple connected. The fact you have no delay could be an indication that something is up with that part of the circuit. Also because you say this seems to come and go, it points to some cold soldered joint somewhere that is opening and closing.(?)
Try removing the DBC3 from your ciruit board, and test it on its own to remove as much of the external wiring you have done. If I remember that was a very ambitious looking board you built.
If you have fully charged batteries, Try removing the apple in the circuit and see what happens.
THe Clark board is fully functional. The only remaining issue seems to be that the Clark board willl not take hits from the Tamiya Leo so there still is some concern on its compatibility .
Cheers
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Scottsale,
AZ
Hi Dan,
Wow, that was fast. I pulled out the board that I had built. A great idea, but hell of a hassle. I'll test the Apple and see if that's it. It's almost as if the Apple is completely reversed. When it should be off, it's on and on - it's off. There's no short in the wirings from the Apple mount to the DB3 board. Must be the Apple(?).
Thanks,
tjs
Wow, that was fast. I pulled out the board that I had built. A great idea, but hell of a hassle. I'll test the Apple and see if that's it. It's almost as if the Apple is completely reversed. When it should be off, it's on and on - it's off. There's no short in the wirings from the Apple mount to the DB3 board. Must be the Apple(?).
Thanks,
tjs
#6
Senior Member
I am not saying it couldn't be a DBC problem, but I would try the set up without the Apple and always use freshly charged batteries when trouble shooting.
I am just heading out the door with the family to a movie. So I will be away for awhile
I am just heading out the door with the family to a movie. So I will be away for awhile
#7

Sounds like a sync issue between the DBC and the RX-18. I was told by Phil to always power on the transmitter first to avoid this.
Hope this helps,
Hope this helps,
#8
I had some problems with my DBC/DBU2 that went away when I switched out the RX-18 board.
Mine would turn on then do nothing... till a new RX-18 solved the problem.
Try that and see if it helps.
Mine would turn on then do nothing... till a new RX-18 solved the problem.
Try that and see if it helps.
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Scottsale,
AZ
Thanks everyone!
I fried my RX18 and DB3 several weeks ago. I had an extra BD2 and replaced the chip from the DB3 into the DB2 and reconnected to another RX18 that I had.
Time to go out and start testing components again....
tjs
I fried my RX18 and DB3 several weeks ago. I had an extra BD2 and replaced the chip from the DB3 into the DB2 and reconnected to another RX18 that I had.
Time to go out and start testing components again....
tjs
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Scottsale,
AZ
No Love,
All connections have been tested and retested. Sensor replaced in Apple (just in case) and same issue.
Turn on transmitter and turn on tank. Apple lights up and stays lit. Cannon firing with no delay.
When I advance throttle up to "Save" configuration, it restarts the tank but the Apple LED's stay on.
Question: I replaced the BD3 from Dan with a DB2 and swapped out the chip from the DB3 to the DB2 (making it a DB3). Could this be the problem? Is there more to the DB3 than just the chip programming?
I'm stumped at this point. I have another DB2 that hasn't been built yet. I will probably build that, swap out chips and purchase a new RX18 just in case.
If anyone has ideas, love to hear it.
Thanks
tjs
All connections have been tested and retested. Sensor replaced in Apple (just in case) and same issue.
Turn on transmitter and turn on tank. Apple lights up and stays lit. Cannon firing with no delay.
When I advance throttle up to "Save" configuration, it restarts the tank but the Apple LED's stay on.
Question: I replaced the BD3 from Dan with a DB2 and swapped out the chip from the DB3 to the DB2 (making it a DB3). Could this be the problem? Is there more to the DB3 than just the chip programming?
I'm stumped at this point. I have another DB2 that hasn't been built yet. I will probably build that, swap out chips and purchase a new RX18 just in case.
If anyone has ideas, love to hear it.
Thanks
tjs
#11

sounds like the DBC is knackered then [&o] - voltage regulator or chip would be my guess, hopefully Dan can throw some more light on this.
#12
Senior Member
You have the configuration pin off right?
It wouldn't be the first time a person has placed the configuration pin on to set the tank parameteres and then forgot to remove it. The DBC2 and 3 are identical except the 2 uses a channel for servo recoil, and the 3 uses that as an interface with the Benedini sound system.
You can send the DBC back to me and I can check it out and return a functioning one. I think it is fair to say this chip has been exposed to some creative wiring<grin>
It wouldn't be the first time a person has placed the configuration pin on to set the tank parameteres and then forgot to remove it. The DBC2 and 3 are identical except the 2 uses a channel for servo recoil, and the 3 uses that as an interface with the Benedini sound system.
You can send the DBC back to me and I can check it out and return a functioning one. I think it is fair to say this chip has been exposed to some creative wiring<grin>
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Scottsale,
AZ
Absolutely some creative wiring..... No more....
Thanks for the offer. That's outstanding service! I'll build my other DB2 and swap the chip out and see how it works. If that doesn't work, I'll send all of them back and maybe you can salvage something out of them.
I'll stick to light bulbs..
Thanks again,
tjs
Thanks for the offer. That's outstanding service! I'll build my other DB2 and swap the chip out and see how it works. If that doesn't work, I'll send all of them back and maybe you can salvage something out of them.
I'll stick to light bulbs..
Thanks again,
tjs



