Airbrushler

does anyone have one how do you like it have you painted it and can you show pics

http://www.matomart.com/prodview.php?p=1170

ausf

I'm interested to hear too.

Metal hulls are one thing, but uppers pose a lot of problems when it comes to correcting things, damaging (intentional) or adding tool clamps, etc.

There's no way I'd spend 6 bills on a tank with a glaring mantlet issue or the horrible molded on tools that can't be removed (Matos detail photos don't load for me so I can't tell).

It is cool that they're selling it with gearboxes only though. [8D]

MAUS45

Ausf, I have attached a photo that shows the underside of the upper hull. It looks like the tools and spare wheels are attached by nuts from the bottom. Also I have seen the tools sold as a kit to add to the plastic Panzer III.

YHR

I am waiting on the stug. As soon as it is released I will be getting one. The PZIII looks well done.

Panther F

Looks interesting, but to paint it?

I wouldn't.














~ Jeff

Airbrushler

Why wouldn't you paint it?

MAUS45

I am with you Dan. I would like a Stug as well. I just hope they remove the lower hull escape hatches. I know some Stugs had them, but most didn't.
Can you picture it dipped in Blackin It and then painted in primer red. Next Dark Yellow base coat and then your favorite camo pattern. You wouldn't have to chip the paint. Every time you touched it or it brushed up against a scale tree it would start to work down to the metal and show all the layers of paint and then the Blackin It surface and then some shiny metal!!![X(] Very cool!

DirtyBird69

LOL...I've been bitten by the STUG bug as well...would like to see the Taigen just to compare...

lposter

I dont know if the original question was looking for painting ideas (like camo patterns of whatever)or technical information as to how the paintingw as done.... but, and Iam no expert, to the best of my knowledge the primer has to be whats called an "etch primer" which bonds itself to the metal with acid in the paint. Otherwise it just comes off.

I bought some from a car shop to test on a range of metals and found that while the stuff worked on sanded mild steel it didnt seem to work so good on aluminium. It bound better when Igot the oxidation off the aluminium but was still not perfect.

Ihave no idea how it would hold on the stuff the Pz III(very nice by the way...) is made of.

Nor do Iknow if it would work in an airbrush (Isprayed it from a can).

Aguy at work told me that the stuff from the car shop isnt the best and that I should have looked for etch primer with a best before date on the can as this stuff contains more of the acid than the car shop one and would do a better job.

Saying all that.....Icannot say Ive ever tried normal primers so maybe they work too. But then again...if they worked, why would etch primers be sold?

p

calvinlo

I have one of these metal Panzer III. Got from a nice dealer in Singapore. So sorry I can't take any pictures now because I am working from home this few days and the tank is displayed in my office.

But generally, it is quite well constructed except for the fact that the top rollers (3 on each sides) are bolted on from the inner hull. This is a problem because I realized that if they are bolted too tightly, they can't turn properly. But if I loosen the bolts, it seems that the roller wheels would eventually work themselves out.

Also, the viewing-port of the commander's cupola is not aligned properly.

lposter

Ithink thats a problem with the metal return roller set sold for Pz III and stugs...(ie. not just on this model).

One solution I found was to get hold of nyloc nuts of the right size (M2 or M3 Ithink)and use them. You can tighten them just enough to let the wheels turn and they wont loosen themselves after that. At least it worked for me. or alternatively use a dab of threadlokk or something.

p

dyeager535

My Feedback: (1)

How about a longer threaded portion bolt, nut on the INSIDE of the return roller assembly on that threaded portion, which acts as a stop when the hull-side nut is tightened?

Didn't realize this was an issue with the return rollers on some setups. The Asiatam hull uses the return roller assemblies that are attached with three tiny nuts, which have no contact with the roller axle.

lposter

Hi ho

Its not the three tiny nuts as are th eproblem....its the central "bolt". It is threaded on the inside of the hull and tightening that nut, as you have to do to stop th ewheels falling off, stops the rollers turning if tightened too much.

As it pulls against the inner of the rollers. Its a bad design (not asiatams only bad design!) .

If Iunderstand you correctly ...your solution could work as well. Im sure there are many......

Its just a pity asiatam couldnt have got it right first time. Especially as the current design means the roller comes in two pieces.....and Ive lost a few of the outer pieces over time.

p

dyeager535

My Feedback: (1)

I gotcha now. Didn't remember there was a "central" bolt on the asiatam setup, even though I have it. But looking at the pics, I see there is.

As long as clearance inside the return roller mount is enough, I think a nut inside would be a pretty easy fix. Use it to keep the roller where it needs to be without excess tension, and you could then use as much torque as you want (within reason lol) on the hull inner nut.

My hull came assembled already so I didn't have to play with this, but I will have to address it obviously.

lposter

I dont mind having to address issues on a 100 euro tank.....but having to address issues on an 80 dollar "upgrade"........its a pain in the rear....

p

STO_118

I know what you mean about painting them, I'm glad they listened and released them unpainted.