Is there a solution to strengthen that mechanizm ?

The little gears are weak and strip .

Does anyone make stronger parts for those units ?

Most of us have the elevator arm replaced with a metal one. That will fix most of the problems caused by the unit.

Who makes them and where to get it from ?

ETO Armour has them.

www.etoarmour.com/product_detail.php

You could replace the unit with a servo, hacked for just motor without the PC board.

Servos seem great.   It would be wonderful if someone could explain step by step how to set these up for Tamiya, el mod etc.  

Yes that would be great

Do we just hook up direct to the motor? By pass the PC board ?

that may be too fast moving though ?

Also the black gear has a mark there too that wears out

So there is two weak links

Yes, essentially that's correct! The speed could be controlled by one or more of the following:

1. geardown
2. Turnigy chip (accelerator control)
3. Diode voltage reduction

Diode speed control explained halfway down page: http://www.sead.us/technology.html

Hacked servo described halfway down page: http://southeastarmoreddivision.weeb...-17-build.html

The gearbox doesn't have to work as hard if you get a good balance between the barrel and the mechanism. The spring helps. You can also flatten the stop tabs so the mechanism arm spins 360 degrees. Only problem is that internally, the gearbox has a lot of slop, so when the arm travels past the apex, it suddenly drops a bit.

Another problem I've found is that some Tamiya worm gears have barely visible casting imperfections that make the motor more noisy when running in one direction than the other. I replaced a Tamiya motor with a Heng Long one (drop-in replacement) and the noise disappeared. Who woulda thunk it?

I think that gutted servos would probably give better performance since they have a higher quality construction and tighter tolerances (but would be more work/fun to fit. I've just been too lazy to experiment.)

Not only can the clutch slip, but I just hated the "Rubber Chicken" bobbing of the main gun when at max or min elevation.

Here is another option:

http://heatarmor.com/joomla/index.ph...d=92&Itemid=29

This works if you use the ratcheted stick for gun elevation. Otherwise, every time you let go of the stick, the main gun will return to the neutral position.

If you want to use a self-centering stick for the main gun, then you just need to add Camera Position Controller. It should also take the place of the rate reducer

http://dionysusdesign.com/product_in...988d676be9f629

I used a Small Spektrum Servo (far right in photo), on a wood platform (Tiger I did not need the platform). With the Spektrum or any other programable radio you are able dial in the min and max elevation so as to not over stress the mechanism.

Amazing

Thank you

If all you want to do is upgrade the slipper clutch you have a few choices.

1) You can superglue the clutch in place

2) Replace the clutch with a solid gear (Blue)

WARNING - While both option should eliminate any slippage, they will also defeat the safety feature of the clutch.

Tamiya sells a series of gear boxes for various projects. What you need are the blue gears to replace the clutch.

Gluing or eplacing the clutch with a solid gear can also be used for a slipping turret motor, with similar warnings.

Good luck

Hello Guys,

the work with servos for the elevation and more is not difficult,the combo i had built was for my early Tamiya Jagdpanther,the ELO is Elmod Pro.


Regards,Guido

Very nice guys .

I want to eliminate the bobbing and add a more solid feeling too .

Still like to know how to make the servo hook up to the MFU direct like a motor guys

Easy11 here is how you change the servo to just a gearhead motor .

http://www.tedpavlic.com/post_servo.php

Now in the instructions it say to solder the wires back on the motor make a change replace the wires with the wires from the original elevation mech this way it will plug right in to the DMD .

Or you can look at this site for some that are already done .

https://solarbotics.com/

Jimmy

Now here is something else you can do first change out the slipper clutch in the Tamiya Elevation Mech with a blue gear from the Tamiya 6 speed gearbox set you can get from Robot Market Place.

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-72005.html

Also buy the metal arm from ETO Armor.

http://etoarmour.com/product_detail.php?productID=DP21

Then you can add limiter switches to stop the elevation mech from then tearing up the black gear from over trying to elevate your barrel .

http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forum...t=2943&p=30373

I did this on my Tamiya Panther works good and am now doing it to a Panther II I'm building .

jimmy

There is a blue clutch gear in the kit that is much stiffer then the stock clutch gear, I used that in my Tiger.
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Superb guys

I will install the servo for sure.

Is there any disadvantages of using a servo in that place ?

The good thing is there are numerous options to fit your budget/skill level/desire to try something new.

I went with the servo option because;

a) I had some spare Spektrum servos from when I purchased my Tx. Some tanks need SMALL servos. I did have to purchase the Camera Controller and Y cable.
b) Some of the turrets are very tight, and installing micro switches would be a challenge.
The Panzer IV is very tight, while the Tiger I is a piece of cake with it's removable turret lid.

If you have a programable radio, that makes it an even easier decision as you can program servo throw to fine tune the Min/Max elevation.

Great advice

I ll do some work on mine.

thanks