IS 2 details
01-03-2014, 08:00 AM
#1
Thread Starter
IS 2 details
Went to Panorama Museum on the southeast side yesterday and did some photos. Here's the link to photobucket for the IS 2. Also did the ISU 122, ISU 152, T 34-85 and SU 100. Reason? Got the second half of my IS 2 and started it.
http://s838.photobucket.com/user/sev...?sort=2&page=1
http://s838.photobucket.com/user/sev...?sort=2&page=1
01-03-2014, 09:31 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Sophia is quite the stealth fighter, actually she's the most gentle and quiet of the herd. We've got a couple more besides her. She's Champion of Ukraine and Champion of Krimea and is quite the rare blue merle in that her facial markings are pretty symetrical, as are most of her body markings.
On the tank photos, I wanted to get the minor details, how the welds are, how the joints fit together, how all the little geegaws are welded and bolted on. The Tammy kit is probably their best yet, but I'm going to have to really rough it up to make it approach a real IS. Motive power will be interesting, working on two possibilities at the moment, both of which will get this beast down from the wildly optimistic 40 KPH to something closer to the 28 or so what was real.
On the tank photos, I wanted to get the minor details, how the welds are, how the joints fit together, how all the little geegaws are welded and bolted on. The Tammy kit is probably their best yet, but I'm going to have to really rough it up to make it approach a real IS. Motive power will be interesting, working on two possibilities at the moment, both of which will get this beast down from the wildly optimistic 40 KPH to something closer to the 28 or so what was real.
01-04-2014, 12:37 AM
#5
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Evgeniy, Is it possible to find any Russian sites with recordings of the IS-2 engine sound /or any other Russian tanks/ ?
/except Youtube of course/
01-04-2014, 01:37 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Thank you, Evgeniy. I have put that sight of speed dial now. I will go over it later today. There are some areas on the IS 2 at Panorama that I can not get to without permission from Museum staff, none of whom were there Thursday.
01-04-2014, 05:50 AM
#7
Also, the designers of WAR THUNDER claim they recorded real tanks' sounds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KABdvuBkGu0
01-09-2014, 06:39 AM
#10
Thread Starter
IS 2 details
Making substantial progress on the prime movers for the IS. Spent the last couple days rummaging around and then made the decision. Since the add on ZUH 19 gear downs will not fit in the IS I decided to use Impact transmissions. However, experience has shown that Impact gears don't like this environment too well, they tend to eat gears even more than usual, plus the added disadvantage of the Impact iron gears running on the gear shafts have no bushings in them, just raw iron rubbing on raw iron. I already knew that Tamiya gears are a virtual bolt in for the Impact trans frame, so I went with that system. I also put 4x7 sealed bearings in every gear I could. The only Impact gear in the transmission is the gear down gear at the very top, #1 in the train. He got 2 bearings in each, as did the following two gears. Most the others have two bearings also, just a couple there just wasn't enough meat left after boring the 6.95 mm hole for the bearing.
At any rate, the difference in just the feel of the transmissions is astounding, I'm talking greased lightening. A little judicious shimming and aligning is needed here and there in the job but nothing difficult at all. Since the Tamiya gears run on hard steel shafts that are precut for snap rings and the shafts rest in a cradle arrangement in the transmission frame I had no choice but to install the Tamiya gear covers also. This installation was needed to keep the gear shafts in place.
The interior width of the Impact trans frame is roughly the same as Tamiya but one must carefully align the Impact frame sides to make sure they are at a perfect 90 degrees from the base. Also one must do the same with the motor and gear mount at the rear inside. Neither of these was anywhere near straight when I started, but they are now. I also shimmed and aligned all the gears as needed to make sure all were in proper contact with each other.
Motors will not be the stock one shown, that's just for assembly purposes. Long cans, by the by, will not fit so it's short cans for sure.
Also working on another transmission set that I may replace this one with as the build progresses.
At any rate, the difference in just the feel of the transmissions is astounding, I'm talking greased lightening. A little judicious shimming and aligning is needed here and there in the job but nothing difficult at all. Since the Tamiya gears run on hard steel shafts that are precut for snap rings and the shafts rest in a cradle arrangement in the transmission frame I had no choice but to install the Tamiya gear covers also. This installation was needed to keep the gear shafts in place.
The interior width of the Impact trans frame is roughly the same as Tamiya but one must carefully align the Impact frame sides to make sure they are at a perfect 90 degrees from the base. Also one must do the same with the motor and gear mount at the rear inside. Neither of these was anywhere near straight when I started, but they are now. I also shimmed and aligned all the gears as needed to make sure all were in proper contact with each other.
Motors will not be the stock one shown, that's just for assembly purposes. Long cans, by the by, will not fit so it's short cans for sure.
Also working on another transmission set that I may replace this one with as the build progresses.
Last edited by sevoblast; 01-09-2014 at 06:47 AM.
01-13-2014, 12:48 AM
#13
Thread Starter
Thanks, Sollie, I'll check in to them. I've got to make sure the track pins are good, otherwise it'll be KV tracks on the beast.
As an aside, gentlemen, when assembling the IS 2, there are some tiny detail parts that get glued to the hull and turret. Each sprue has the type of plastic it is molded from on the back of the sprue letter plate. Some is ABS, some of course styrene. Needless to say the only way to attack the ABS detail parts to styrene is with ACC adhesive. I use the gel type ACC as it gives you a moment or three to position the part correctly if you are like me and getting old with the resultant deteriorating eyes and wobbly hands from time to time. ABS parts also take a different adhesive than styrene so for instance the wheels and support rollers will need ABS adhesive, not styrene adhesive.
Also, the lift rings for the rear deck and rear hull plate (which are ABS, hence the comment about ACC) are shown in the instructions as being at the wrong angle from the IS 2 I'm using as a guide. On the prototype IS 2's I've looked at the rings are 90 degrees different from the instructions. IS 2 that is my guide is this one.
http://www.tigerscorner.ru/index.php?topic=792.0
As an aside, gentlemen, when assembling the IS 2, there are some tiny detail parts that get glued to the hull and turret. Each sprue has the type of plastic it is molded from on the back of the sprue letter plate. Some is ABS, some of course styrene. Needless to say the only way to attack the ABS detail parts to styrene is with ACC adhesive. I use the gel type ACC as it gives you a moment or three to position the part correctly if you are like me and getting old with the resultant deteriorating eyes and wobbly hands from time to time. ABS parts also take a different adhesive than styrene so for instance the wheels and support rollers will need ABS adhesive, not styrene adhesive.
Also, the lift rings for the rear deck and rear hull plate (which are ABS, hence the comment about ACC) are shown in the instructions as being at the wrong angle from the IS 2 I'm using as a guide. On the prototype IS 2's I've looked at the rings are 90 degrees different from the instructions. IS 2 that is my guide is this one.
http://www.tigerscorner.ru/index.php?topic=792.0
01-13-2014, 03:30 AM
#14
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....I'm worried that I'm tempted to do the gearbox bearings on my Taigen 4:1s and 3:1s... do you use anything special to drill them out, or just the proper metric bits & a drill press?
I suppose any sealed flanged bearings from Boca would do the job.
I suppose any sealed flanged bearings from Boca would do the job.
01-13-2014, 05:32 AM
#16
Sollie, are their two pins for each track and who makes them?
01-14-2014, 01:08 AM
#17
Thread Starter
IS 2 work
Did a bunch of welds on the IS the last couple days. The welds are unbelievably crude on the prototype so I made these the same. They will get scuffed down a little before the second coat of paint. Since I've had a hands on for our local IS I spaced the welds correctly. Also installed the rear deck screens and the tow cable shackle brackets, all three of PE with the kit. I then put Mr. Surfacer 500 on the rear hull side plates and engine hatch to simulate the real thing. The rear hull plate will get the same treatment after I finish filling the two tow cable holes in the plate. Don't know yet what I'll do with the tow cables but you can bet they won't be rubber as comes with the kit.
Also bored the turret race drain holes, two each side. These holes will be roughed up pretty good as the prototype had the holes drilled with an acetylene drill.
I also did some work with the upper hull to lower hull attachments. I didn't like the idea of unscrewing two large hinges on the rear plate to gain access to the innards, that would scuff off the paint in no time. I simply installed two socket head screws in the hull cross brace and installed rare earth magnets in each hinge. So far so good, the upper hull seems to stay in place and the magnets seem to be strong enough to work.
Also bored the turret race drain holes, two each side. These holes will be roughed up pretty good as the prototype had the holes drilled with an acetylene drill.
I also did some work with the upper hull to lower hull attachments. I didn't like the idea of unscrewing two large hinges on the rear plate to gain access to the innards, that would scuff off the paint in no time. I simply installed two socket head screws in the hull cross brace and installed rare earth magnets in each hinge. So far so good, the upper hull seems to stay in place and the magnets seem to be strong enough to work.
Last edited by sevoblast; 01-14-2014 at 01:13 AM.
02-14-2014, 03:41 AM
#19
Thread Starter
OK, got some more work done on the IS 2. As you know, the metal tracks arrived Monday. Today I blew the first coat of rust on them after painting them flat black. Have a look. They work very well in a test run and when stopped the sag between the return rollers is about correct. This sag can be adjusted with the idler to make it less or more as per your personal preference.
Also got the wheels and sprockets painted and mounted along with the return rollers. Waiting for bearings for the outer part of the return rollers, but went ahead and assembled 'em anyhow with bushings on the outside.
The upper and lower hull is now painted. Next is to brush off some of the welds a bit and toss some more paint on in between working on the turret.
Also got the wheels and sprockets painted and mounted along with the return rollers. Waiting for bearings for the outer part of the return rollers, but went ahead and assembled 'em anyhow with bushings on the outside.
Last edited by sevoblast; 02-14-2014 at 09:20 AM.
