I am trying to install a slightly more powerful motor into the turret rotation unit of my Tammy Pershing.
I found a motor that is the exact same size, and very close amp draw, but with more rpm.

The stock motor is a marbuchi
FF 130SH 14230, 2.5 - 10v, 7400 rpm .050 A
@ max efficiency (6 v nominal) 6060 rpm .23A

The new motor Nichibo
PC-130F - 12240, 3-9 v, 9500 rpm, .10 A
@ max efficiency (6 v nominal) 6800 rpm @ .25 A

The Stock motor has (what I believe is) two resistors.
One from the positive terminal to the negative, then one from the negative to the motor body.
They appear to be the same resistor, with 3 stripes - red, blue, and yellow.

I get that they are probably lowering the power draw from 7.2 to 6 V.
Do I need them?
Do I need different resistors?
I could not even find an image of a 3 stripe resistor.

I am not worried about the motors, as I have 3.
But I do not want to fry my MF or DMD.

Thoughts?

The resistors are to cut down on rf noise.just unsolder and resolder to new motor in same spots

That's what I was figuring to do, but I am a little hesitant to "undo" wiring when I wasn't sure what exactly the resisters were for.

I didn't think you were allowed to increase turret speed from stock?





Jeff

Good question. Guess I should look into it.
We never check for it during inspections.
I am not trying to get any kind of big advantage with this.
Just more consistent/smooth traverse.
The Pershings traverse is a bit feeble compared to other turrets that sit on rollers, like the panthers.
The little BB-like bearing ball just sits in and run along a groove, which is now kinda rough.
So while traversing, the turret bumps along.
So I have smoothed it out and am hoping that a little more umph will help.

You need to light grease that bearing track at the start of tank battle season every year and may be more often if you battle with it a lot I do mine this way and have no problems with it traversing .

Jimmy

No you are not in most clubs. That was pretty high up in the do's and don'ts of the regulations that i have read unless I'm just not understanding what you are trying to do. If you are trying to increase traverse speed then i do not think it is allowed at Danville but i'm sure one of the guy's that frequent there would know more.

My Pershing has the same weak seemingly slow traverse also. It does improve with a little lube, you just need to be vigilant with the Pershing because most of the time it is the wiring in the tight space that restricts it. Make sure you have very good wiring hygiene in the Pershing.

My wiring is pretty neat and tidy and tucked away.
I think it is mostly caused by the friction in the groove, especially since I originally painted it.
I've been racking my brain trying to figure a way of lining it w/ teflon or replace it w/ a ring bearing.
Or replacing the little BB's w/ the little roller wheels from a panther turret somehow.

I ran a dry candle through the groove of my Pershing to line the channel with wax to try to reduce friction, I think you could try that.

Turret speeds are no longer part of any inspection process that I know of, that being said if your tube looks like a windshield wiper out there you may get a talk'n to. I've used graupner speed 250 motors in tamiya recoil units and in one rotation gearbox. it's a little fast for turret traverse. If you go the lube route watch what your using as it may attract dirt and possibly make things worse.

you know me always lookin for a way to cheat

He he....if your not cheat'n your not try'n!

Grease and oil attacks dirt and soon will have the opposite effect. I personally do not recommend it. If you only run indoors that may not be an issue. A faster traverse is frowned upon at most RC tank battle days but as long as it is not unreasonably fast. Use commons sense and be a gentleman and it probably will not been an issue. If you would like to reduce friction try a slick adhesive or Teflon tape on the underside of the turret to reduce friction at the contact points. Try solidifying the slipper clutch gear. I solder mine, which can be done is place and take under one minute. Some guys blue the blue gear or CA it. Soldering is free and very easy. The rotation unit is U shaped and flexes easily. Make sure the U is tight and bend it closed a bit from time to time. Some guys eve wire tire it.

Good luck Dave. Let us know how you make out. preferably before the May event so I can prepare a formidable defense from you super traverse unit.

I am hoping it is fast enough that I can fan shot the whole field without moving my tracks.
For my slipper clutch, I swapped it with the middle of the the 3 gears in the unit.
So, it still slips, but only under duress.
I think I got that from Panther F maybe?
I also put a zip tie around it to hold it.
No oil either, just a little grease on the gears.
Again, I am just talking about a few hundred rpm, so hopefully it is just a bit more solid.
But there was a motor with like 18,000 rpm…...

I'm interested too in speeding up my tank's rotation speeds (real Panther could do 360 rotation in 15-19 sec at 3,000 rpm I believe). You said you used Graupner Speed 250 motor on one rotation gearbox, did it cause problems with the DMD, MFU electronics? Thanks.

Glad to see you're using that gear!





Jeff

No problems with DMD, just made the traverse too quick.

While we are on the subject, my HE tanks, my M1A1 and my Leo could use some more sped in the traverse to actually be accurate. I'm pretty sure these use the little square motors. Anyone have a suggestion on a motor thats like those but a little faster? Are these the motors your referring too Dave?

Maybe graphite? I have used it on the axles of pine racers and it does not attract dust and dirt. The wheels are plastic and the axles are metal nails on a pine racer. It would coat the groove in the plastic and allow the ball bearing to roll better. It will not attack the plastic.

The rollers that the Panther uses is a better system than the bearings the Persh uses, I'm sure they could be incorporated into that system some how.
The Pershing had been around for quite awhile before the Panther so that was probably an engineering fix by Tamiya.
The ball is the actual problem. It has so little contact area it can quickly cut a groove in the lower turret race, then the turret gets lower onto the hull then the entire under surface of the turret is riding on the hull. Need to get it back up in the air and get rollers with much more surface area.

Those are not resistors, they are capacitors for motor signal/noise filtering. The Stripes will indicate the farad value of capacitance.

Gregg, I've found that if you replace the stock HL motor with a tamiya elevation,traverse, recoil motor the speed increases. If memory serves me right you'll have to swap
the small pinion from the HL to Tammy motor though. If your looking for something more drastic the Graupner speed 250 has higher RPM but cost's a bit and are getting hard to
find.

Brett these are Hobby Engine tanks, not Heng Long tanks. I am not sure if the use the same motors as HL but the mechanisms are remarkably similar.
All probably made by the same sub component manufacturer in China so it may be the same situation. Thanks. I will try that.
I may in the future replace these with servos for better response and accuracy but still working out the bugs.
With these "HE" tanks there is an incredible amount of work needed to get them up to acceptable performance levels.
I knew HL would come out with it's own LEO and M1A1 before I finished my HE models but I'm so far into these that I can't stop now.

I have no idea what "the farad value of capacitance" means, but thanks for the clarification.
Is that the amount of noise it filters?
So, I could probably get away with not transferring them to the new motor?
At least for some testing that is.
Sometimes it is easier to ask a dumb question on here than to un-solder the old then solder the new, just to test.
Then, if it does not have the intended result, un-solder and re-solder again.

MAUS 45, I originally used graphite as well and seemed to help.
But as Panther G points out, as the groove gets more and more worn, the traverse gets more rickety.
My Pershing is now 3 years old and has been to every battle day in Danville during that time.
So, I am looking for a bigger jump in performance.