metalhead1986

Looks like the Vallejo Matte Varnish will be the matte coating for my Tiger. The Testor's Dullcote is not nearly as matte a finish as I am looking for . After two coats, it is more of a satin finish to me. There is still some sheen on my test pieces, and I want the Tiger to be flat when completed. Another thing I dislike is that I can see the outline of the decals on the piece with the Mr. Top Coat gloss coat. My test pieces with Future and the Vallejo matte varnish show none of the edges of the decals. The image of the decal is all you see.

I will do one more test with the Mr. Top Coat, decal, and then Vallejo matte varnish to see how that combination goes.

Right now, it looks like Future is the way to go. I just need to get more confident with laying it down.

Steve

ausf

Future is self-leveling, that's the difference. You can use a hand brush to 'float' it up to edge, then AB another thin coat over and the decal will look better than a dry transfer, completely indistinguishable from the surrounding surface from any angle.

metalhead1986

I finished my last clear coat test a couple of days ago. This test was Vallejo Matte Varnish over Mr. Top Coat gloss. The Mr;Top Coat provides super smooth finish. It is so smooth that the Micro Set pools on the surface and decals take longer to set than on the Future coated pieces I made. After laying on the matter varnish, the finish is nice and matte, but there is the slightest bit of the decal outline still visible, It's better than the Testor's Dullcote, but not nearly as good as the Future/Vallejo combination. From what asuf says above, that must be from Future's self-leveling ability.

So, my favorite combination is Future for the gloss coat to set the decals on, then Vallejo matte varnish to bring everything back to a dull finish.

I do have two questions before I set off on trying this out on the Tiger.

1. I am trying to decide if I should cover the entire tank in Future or just the areas where decals will be applied. Looking at the tank, I could mask off areas that will not have decals and just cover specific areas with the Future without creating raised areas that can be seen. I can cover just the sides of the tank, the rear of the turret bin, and the side of the turret. So, my question - is it that beneficial to cover the whole model with the Future as a protective layer? I know the acrylic is a hard protective layer for the paint, but I am more than a little worried about my experience laying down the future. I will practice more, but I guess until I have success on a model, I will have this fear.

2. What are some good ways to prevent dust, lint, etc. from settling on the model after the clear coats are applied? My garage is filled with this stuff in the air, and what I have tried to prevent this from happening is only moderately successful. I leave the fan in my paint booth off, so I am not pulling in these particles over the freshly painted surface. As soon as the coat is applied, I cover the parts with the dome from a cake carrier we have and leave it in place for a few hours, then remove it so the coat can sure completely. Am I removing the dome too soon? Should I get an air purifier for the garage to remove as many of these particles as I can. What else can I try?

Thanks for all the guidance through this process,

Steve

ausf

The only downside I've ever come across with Futuring the entire model is when detailing 1/48 or smaller armor: too many coats of finish can diminish surface texture/detail. That is not a concern at all in 1/16 (or most 1/35) and the added protection is well worth the effort. Not to mention that the possiblilty of detecting differences in a finish is greater if you spot paint areas on different days, weather or paint bottles.

In terms of dust, I'd suggest if you really are that concerned, go ask car modelers. They're the only ones I've ever heard raise the issue since their finishes need to be pristine. I have two doors on my spray booth that close and never noticed anything sticking to a paintjob that shouldn't. Covering with a box should work fine, it's only the surface that would be an issue and that's the quickest to dry. I wouldn't woory too much about proper curing be impeded unless you're dealing with a small box, tightly sealed. You would only need to provided a cover, the bottom of the box could be propped open and particles shouldn't be entering unless you've got serious air disturbances.

I've heard of guys using anti-static devices when going for mirror-like finishes, but again I think if you're trying to paint in a dust storm, the easiest solution is to change the location. If you have that much particulate matter in the air, your sprat booth is drawing it all towards you while you're painting.

Personally, I wouldn't stress so much and enjoy the process, it's a tank.