Hey guys. I'm planning on buying some Valejo paints for the first time to see how much faster I can get painting done as compared to mixing Tamiya paints (And hopefully not get cancer and/or reproductive harm as stated on the pot). I am looking for a good colour of US tanks. Specifically the Sherman. I'm looking at BNA models and just the colour squares don't really help a first time Valejo buyer such as myself.

Any help is great. Cheers guys.

They sell the paints in set for camo patterns. I don't use the "Airbrush" paint...when I do spray it, I thin it myself...costs less that way. I use Vallejo mainly on small detail parts and figures. The rest is Tamiya, Model master and Humbrol.

Figured I'd give them a try since people swear by them. Still will mix my own since it's easily available around my area.

I've not had much luck with Vallejo, they clog up my airbrush and have a tendency to dry whilst in midair giving a very rough surface. Tamiya paints have given me much more success. Both paints are similarly formulas and I can't see the vallejo cause more harm than tamiya, just don't eat them and you should be OK.

Yeah, use the Model Color series, they make specific Panzer Colors for both vehicles and uniforms of the various armies. Get a bottle of their AB thinner and cut them up to 50%. They also now have Poly primers in tank colors.

I don't have any US armor, but I think they have a few OD options.

They have all the color charts on their website, including the RAL, RLM numbers.

I've never had much luck with Vallejo either. I stick with Model Master and it's never let me down. But if you need a great cross reference chart try this one

www.paint4models.com

Don't download the chart, just launch it, and you'll be able to cross reference just about any color ya want, by FS number or by brand. Best paint chart I've ever found.

Vallejo's formula is nowhere near that of Tamiya's (not sure about MM). Tamiya 'acrylics' are ether based, not water based as Vallejo.

If you're getting tip dry or pebbled surface, you're spray at too high a pressure. The only time I remember getting tip dry was with Tamiya since the ether evaporates faster than water. Model color when brushed dry pretty quick, but properly thinned you shouldn't have an issue.

I'm not knocking Tamiya's paints, they're excellent, or trying to sell you on Vallejo by mentioning that, you just need different AB practices for different paints. I use Vallejo exclusively for the last 10 years or so. My kids airbrush and there's no need to expose them to the solvents in Tamiya. That sweet candy smell comes at a price.

I am experimenting with Vallejo airbrush colors they have a tank set (though I don't think specific to any type of armor); I am still mixing in some Windex and trying to find the right formula for me. However I am trying these on miniatures, as I have extensive experience with them on minis. I airbrushed a bunch of Soviet Flame of War tanks seems to go fine even when I'm doing too high an air pressure setting or pooling paint in an area: it still dries pretty nicely.

Have not tried the airbrush color by itself with out thinning, but generally stock Vallejo even the model colors will definitely need thinning.

I have found a few colours that would suit my needs. I'm trying to avoid the packs, but I think it would be a good 'starter' kit for a new sprayer like me. I have an el cheapo airbrush kit with a compressor with no PSI adjustment (to my knowledge) but it sprays just fine. I still intend to use Tamya, but from the mixed reviews, I might give it a shot. Cheers guys.

Use Violet Brown. Also I like US olive drab washed over with Violet brown. Use Future Shine to thin the paint to milk consistency and it will not dry causing dry tip. If you use water it will break the paint or cause dry tip. When done flush the brush with water then use Windex. Make sure you dry your brush before storage. Use testors dull coat spray cans to seal the paint job. Do not use the Valejo matte it will eventually turn white.

I spray at 25-30 psi with a .3 needle and tip. If I use a .1 or .2 I'll go down to 18-20. With an Iwata CS pro for the .3 and an Iwata HP pro for the .2.

German colors are Middles stone, German reflective green, and German medium camo brown. Red oxide is 2/3 hull red and 1/3 chocolate brown.

British armor is Russian uniform green. I know it sounds wrong but it is the closest to the green they used. I like to use that at 1/3 mixed with 2/3 violet brown on my UK miniature tanks. But @ 100% on guns.

I then wash down select areas with Model color Umber Wash for that dark muddy / sooty build up. Do not wash the entire tank with sepia. It will turn it Olive Drab. You can wash it with black wash but be sure to thin down to at least 50%.

If you like the paint chipping look Valejo works well with hairspray. On US armor I like Black Grey under the chip areas.