So.

I have a HL JagdPanther which I've been slowly trying to upgrade. The next step was to install a TK-22 on it as I wanted to replace the Tx with a 2.4GHz system. Previously when I tried to install it, the tank didn't respond at all: no engine start/sound, no movement, nothing. So I thought it was the Tx I got. I rigged a battery case and a separate micro servo separately to test it and maybe rebind it. Did all of it, servo was responsive on all 6 channels. So at this point it's not the Tx/Rx.

I installed it again and again no response, as if no power was going to the TK-22. Then I remembered (and looked it up again) that I had to put a jumper or the smoker switch plug to the SW port on the TK-22. So I unplugged the smoker switch from its own socket and plugged it there. No go. Then I remembered ok maybe I need to turn the smoker switch ON. I did that, made sure battery switch was on as well (yes this was plugged to CN1 or the battery port on the TK). Again nothing. I pulled up my reference video again and in the middle of watching it, smoke started to come out of my tank!

The wires from the battery to the TK-22 started melting and smoke was coming out, and I think a little fire even spewed up from the wires. I quickly turned off everything I can and unplugged the battery cable from the TK-22, then the rest of the cables. I ran with the tank outside in the backyard as the smoke wasn't stopping. I then just cut the wires from the battery.

So what did I do wrong?

And what happened?

I know I messed up somewhere and not that upset about the whole ordeal (wife was however). I just want to learn from it and actually install the TK-22 (it's been sitting on my work area for a few weeks now) properly.

I'd like to know what my options are. And if FreakyDude is reading this, need some advice. I would maybe want to send the unit back to you and see if there's something wrong with it? Not looking for a replacement or refund unless it was really a defective unit I just want to know if I fried it (the unit didn't seem hot or components smoked or burned in fact it still looked like no power was going to it) or if it's salvageable. At this point I'm very apprehensive about plugging this to another HL of mine (for obvious reasons).

Here are my references when I was trying to install the TK-22:

http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20/index.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80WaaWRnvk0
http://clark-model.com/eng/index_e.html

Come to think of it, any advice from anyone would be helpful.

Oh and to add: I'm out the two switches power and smoker, wiring to the battery bay, and one battery. I figured all of these are no good now so I threw them away. Wiring to the battery bay actually turned to ashes.... So my little Gerda is out of commission until at least I replace those components.

Baliw First off, because there was smoke and fire there had to be a short somewhere, regardless of who's electronics you use smoke and fire = a short.
So first off find the short. Do everything regardless of how basic you may think it needs to be.
Start at the battery and work forward following every wire, you are looking for melted wire, wire that is discolored or looks like it has black powder on it. Wonderful thing about a short is the electricity will leave the evidence exactly where the short was.
So once you have found your short then we need to fix what was wrong, ie was the polarity correct? was a small bare wire touching etc.
Lets assume you did that, now we need to find out why you never recieved any feedback from the Clark board. First thing is always the SW port or where the jumper goes, a switch a jumper whatever, you need power going through that port.
The next biggest reason is not having the radio bound OR having the wires plugged into your reciever up side down or plugged in the wrong slots.
I can sit here and type a million words on what to do etc but how about this
return the Clark board to me, I'll test it and find out what is wrong. Maybe we can have a skype conversation as well, posts and e-mails only go so far to resolving problems.

Throwing away your battery and switches is very premature. Batteries probably fine. Lookingnat the switch might give clues to why the board wasn't working. Personally I'd use a jumper or a hl to pin connector with the wires soldered together. If you pull too much current through the little smoker switch it'll melt fast. The hl switches can have dodgy soldering, I had an issue where the solder came away shorted and caused an issue very much like you describe.

Wow, I admire you guys. It's so Pioneerish to be wiring and plugging into these electronics (which are very expensive) all to have "something" go wrong! I can't imaging the thing causing a house fire all because you had to walk away from it quickly and left a battery installed.

I don't want to sound negative but this is why I like the 'Plug N Play' of Tamiya. YES, it's expensive but at least NO mistakes can occur as plugs only go ONE WAY. Yes, and they all pretty much sound the same except for a few.

And here I wanted to experiment with a different sound. I am a very experienced technician with electronics BUT to have it all go up like that makes me think it's a bigger risk than I though it was.

Do these things come "idiot proof"? And with all respects to Baliw (which I am NOT referring to) but is it a risky adventure to install one of these? I've heard nothing but good things WHEN THEY WORK and wonder if they could be already to go for the tanker so all he has to do is "plug it in" sort of speak?

Anyone watch "Saving Private Ryan" knows the sound of the Tiger and it's creaky, grinding noise sort of like what some of these aftermarket electronics sound like. I even think on certain tanks the reloading sound would be kinda cool. Well, I wanted some of my "Heavy" Tigers to have this sound and I have been in discussions with Dan (YHR) but have been unable to pull the trigger for I feel there is way too much of a risk adding such a system and have it all 'go up' on me.

I sure hope Baliw at least finds out what went wrong but I feel he is out of a lot of money in the end. I do hope there is some kinda guarantee but also, can these come "ready to install" for the tanker who may not want to take that risk? Like, pre-install everything like it was going in a tank but then have the buyer make the final hook-ups so there's a guarantee of nothing flaming on him?


Well my questions were not to be inflammatory but to insist on some kind of guidance that things will not go wrong for me... if I want to try this?




Jeff

Just to be clear on this. The DBC3 is plug and play with the RX 18 and the stock HL wiring. You unplug the 3 wire cable that goes to the HL Receiver, and you plug that into the DBC3. Hook up the servo cables and you are done.

If you want to have advance features that are more then a standard Heng Long then you have to break out the soldering iron.( i.e either direction barrel elevation, extra lighting etc.)


All electronics are sensitive to shorts and reverse polarity and are very unforgiving. When you break out the soldering iron and start a rewiring project be careful.

Hey Baliw,

I have that exact tank from HL, and I've been upgrading mine as well (drivers, idlers, tracks, paint, better smoke, next is roadwheels), and I also went to 2.4 but I cheated and just got the Imex kit. All my HL tanks run on that. Anyway, I fried part of an HL board messin' around and I've had a couple of other "smoke events" so I know how ya feel.

All I can say is keep at it and since I'm doing the same tank let me know if you need anything for it, I might have something in the spares box. And Tom is right about premature scrapping of stuff, and I even take that further, never throw away anything for the tank! Good luck, Bro.

very very unlikely to have a tank of up in flames as the result of a wiring error. If you're a very very experienced electronics tech then you should have no problems wiring up a tank. I'm one of the least electronically minded people you'll meet but I've managed to install Clarks, slus, Ibus and tamiya systems. Just remember to check and double check your connections and you won't go far wrong.

Nope I said I was 'very experienced', not "very very". But thanks for the vote of confidence but my point is: Is there a greater chance of it going up than what is feared? In the past I have customed wired radar detectors into dash displays on BMW's, installed whole new fuse boxes, rewired a 750i after a dash fire (that the customer had a big named stereo outfit install)... well, you get my point.

I just fear that I'll get a spaghetti full of wires and a half-installed board and very a minimal wiring diagram. No?

How can anyone one of these systems be added to an already existing Tamiya set up.. you know, for added sound effects?

I am just curious and certainly know that these things work!





Jeff

I'd lay money on the switch. In my experience, the HL switches are the absolute cheapest I've seen. Junk sheet metal that could easily short. I don't think I've come across one that was clean in it's position. A good switch should click into place, either on or off.

I remember reading somewhere that one of the major causes of home electrical fires were switches that weren't completely on/off. They can heat up without tripping the breaker.

If survival training shows starting a fire with a AA batt and foil from a stick of gum, our batteries sure as hell can generate a good amount of heat when arcing.

I agree with Tom, I'd get the stuff out of the bin if possible, it's your evidence of what went wrong and as long as the battery (non lipo) itself wasn't hot, it should be fine.

Dan will have the real answer, but I've been thinking about this too. I bet you could just Y harness a Benedini right from the receiver (half going Benny, half DMD) and just connect the speaker (I think you need an 8 ohm, not the 4 Tamiyas use) to the Benedini. The DMD will still function, but without volume or speaker. Although I'm not sure how the cannon firing can be triggered.

When I get a Clark board, I am going to upgrade wire gauge and connectors wherever I can. Clark has got their system architecture bang-on to what the tankers want, now they need to get their infrastructure to a more robust standard to deal with the stresses of upgrades, weight, and prolonged battling.

I really think it's the smoker switch as well, that was the only difference that I did the last time. I think I may want to try the jumper next time.

I'm not deterred at the least and I think this is a good experience for me, just caught me off guard because I was checking my work against the youtube video and wasn't paying complete attention to the tank. It wouldn't have gone far if I was. The TK IMO it's pretty straightforward I don't think I crossed wires on it on the plugs there's only one way to socket them in; just the switch part that's tricky for me (and it really shouldn't) and in the future (FreakyDude) may want to just include that jumper in the package.

I think my next steps is to go to radio shack for a switch. :P

I'm sure many will consider me a Nervous Nellie but where practical I put in line fuse holders in my models as close to the battery as possible. Perhaps not in every last model but all my 1/10 ( some use 2 5000mAh packs in parallel) but I fear shorts. Perhaps the belief
in fuses is just a pipe dream but I'm hoping they'll head off some problems.

NiMH and certainly Li ion batteries just can't be taken lightly. I'm certain the original poster took all preventative steps but even the best intentions can't always counter the unexpected.

Jerry

EXACTLY! I think the lesson learned here is to fuse any and all projects. I am spoiled because we don't do that with the Tamiya gear, but should (and I don't know if they are internally fused having never had one apart) so if there is an error or failure we save all that work and gear.

I am still in the planning stage... maybe add this to my Sturmpanzer Brummbar?




Jeff

Radio Shack has decent in-line fuse holders for a few bucks. I use the lowest rated fuse as I can get away with.

Jerry

The Benedini can be added to a Tamiya system. You need to install the Benedini in between the receiver and the Tamiya ESC. The Benedini has a pass through set of servo pins for this called Prop 1. One is Prop1 "in "the other is Prop 1 "out",

That is all that is required to add the Benedini Engine features to a Tamiya tank. No wiring, just plug and play, The issue is the other sounds. On the Clark unit the engine sounds never need to be engaged allowing the Benedini to provide the engine sounds and the Clark to supply the canned static sounds, for cannon and MG. On the Tamiya you can't just turn off the engine sound, keep the esc engaged live, and have the other sounds active.( to the best of my knowledge)

So to fully use the Benedini you need an encoder. The DBC3 and now the DBC4 is exactly that. It is a digital Benedini encoder allowing you to map your transmitter sticks to individual sound triggers. Fully programmable for you to configure how you wish.

None of this requires a soldering iron. The biggest risk is installing the servo cables backwards.

Good to know.




Jeff