Heng Long Panzer iv f2
10-18-2014, 10:12 PM
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Heng Long Panzer iv f2
Well I just ordered my first tank from Matomart, it is a Heng Long Panzer iv f2 with the metal gear box and the metal track. Just wondering if there is any accessories I should think about buying? Is there a way to use my Futaba 9C 2.4 with the tank?
10-18-2014, 11:40 PM
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With the stock HL electronics in a tank there are a few options, including the http://battlearmorrc.weebly.com/products-page.html DBC and http://rctanksaustralia.com/shop/ MAKO boards.
Then there are stand alone options like ElMod, the IBU2 and the (in my opinion!!!) most popular 'round here http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20/index.html Clark boards.
The stock Panzer IV is a robust tank and doesn't really scream for upgrades right away. I often tackle a functioning idler adjust asap because it's simple and something I like to have on my tanks where possible. Check this out here http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/a...r-iv-678-p.asp
The PnzIV is a bit lacking in spare / upgrade parts at least on this continent, but they are out there. Matomart's eBay store is Rc Dynasty and they carry all sorts of goodies if you're so inclined as well.
Favourite vendors: Immortal Hobbies (Canada), rctank.de (Germany), Artistic Hobbies (USA), WelshDragon Models (UK) HobbyRaw (China, great deals especially gearboxes) and TankArmy (Australia)
You'll really enjoy your tank and Mato has good customer service, and welcome to this forum! Ask all the questions you want, tanks can have a bit of a learning curve but they're not that bad
Then there are stand alone options like ElMod, the IBU2 and the (in my opinion!!!) most popular 'round here http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20/index.html Clark boards.
The stock Panzer IV is a robust tank and doesn't really scream for upgrades right away. I often tackle a functioning idler adjust asap because it's simple and something I like to have on my tanks where possible. Check this out here http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/a...r-iv-678-p.asp
The PnzIV is a bit lacking in spare / upgrade parts at least on this continent, but they are out there. Matomart's eBay store is Rc Dynasty and they carry all sorts of goodies if you're so inclined as well.
Favourite vendors: Immortal Hobbies (Canada), rctank.de (Germany), Artistic Hobbies (USA), WelshDragon Models (UK) HobbyRaw (China, great deals especially gearboxes) and TankArmy (Australia)
You'll really enjoy your tank and Mato has good customer service, and welcome to this forum! Ask all the questions you want, tanks can have a bit of a learning curve but they're not that bad
10-19-2014, 04:36 AM
#3
Strato gave you the in depth answer with all your options.
I'll give you the short answer on the Futaba, no. There's no bindable Rx unless you upgrade with one of the boards mentiooned above.
The other concern with your Tx (I assume you are using it with your listed AC), tanks really need self-centering on both sticks. There are short term fixes like using rubber bands on the outside to center, but eventually you'll want to get rid of the ratchet and add some springs. I use a DX6i on mine, but had to mod it, rendering it useless for AC.
I'll give you the short answer on the Futaba, no. There's no bindable Rx unless you upgrade with one of the boards mentiooned above.
The other concern with your Tx (I assume you are using it with your listed AC), tanks really need self-centering on both sticks. There are short term fixes like using rubber bands on the outside to center, but eventually you'll want to get rid of the ratchet and add some springs. I use a DX6i on mine, but had to mod it, rendering it useless for AC.
10-19-2014, 05:30 AM
#4
Hey Wolflord (cool screen name), I'm assuming this your first tank and not just the first time you bought from Matomart. Welcome to the wonderful world of RC tanks! I'm pretty new myself, but I've already learned that both the guys that already answered are well respected around here for their knowledge and I think they've given you very good advice.
If you don't mind my asking, what did you have to pay for shipping (I assume in Canadian dollars)?
Did you get IR or airsoft? Do you have any interest in battles or do you mainly like driving them around the house and yard? Or both?
I started with the latter but now I'm getting real interested in the former. The battles really look like fun and there's some pretty cool guys involved.
Again, welcome. You're gonna love it!
Max/Gary
If you don't mind my asking, what did you have to pay for shipping (I assume in Canadian dollars)?
Did you get IR or airsoft? Do you have any interest in battles or do you mainly like driving them around the house and yard? Or both?
I started with the latter but now I'm getting real interested in the former. The battles really look like fun and there's some pretty cool guys involved. Again, welcome. You're gonna love it!
Max/Gary
10-19-2014, 08:07 AM
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Yes my first Tank and also first time buying from Matomart. I am using them for backyard battles, plan on getting a few more for my sons after I see how this one runs. I bought the Air-soft version and I am planning on using the 6mm Paint-balls. Shipping was the standard Canada post parcel rate of $25 dollars (2 weeks to get to me as our parcel delivery across the country is slow) to go across the country as I am on the west cost.
I am looking forward to opening the box this Friday to see how it all looks.
I am looking forward to opening the box this Friday to see how it all looks.
10-19-2014, 09:15 AM
#6
Wolflord Hi, the only part of the HENG LONG PZ4 which gives problems is the overly firm suspension, there are also shortcomings in the 1/16 version versus the full scale prototype, the rear rollers on the model are mounted in line with the other rollers when they should be 3mm to 5mm lower but if you are happy with what you have then you might like to leave well alone. I love the PZ4 it was built throughout WW2 so lots of modifications were fitted over it's production run allowing modellers plenty of scope for an individual Tank of your own. I should add that when you take delivery of your PZ4 the CUPOLA may be facing the wrong way, ensure the top hatch doors open to the left and right of the TURRET with the VISION SLIT in line with the main gun, the CUPOLA is not glued so just a gentle turn will get it in the correct position. good luck. shaun
Last edited by jarndice; 10-20-2014 at 10:41 AM.
10-20-2014, 07:23 AM
#7
The PIV is a pretty solid runner just like all these guys say. If you are driving outside I would suggest some metal content for a bit more weight as the PIV is lacking on that. The first upgrades I usually see people do with the PIV is metal drive wheels and tracks first. Since the weight is so low on the the gearboxes they can usually be left alone until more weight is added like road wheels, return rollers, and idlers. I personally would start with the metal drive wheels and idlers. Most of the time the drive wheels are plastic on the PIV. Then I would move on to a better sound system
10-20-2014, 07:56 AM
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You will find the PZ4 is like the Sherman with so many variants out there. Look at the Asiatam metal lower as an option down the road. It would make a great foundation for anything you wish to pursue.
10-20-2014, 08:24 AM
#9
The III and IV (non Tamiya) are the only ones I'd say absolutely need metal tracks. The soft plastic ones don't hold up because of thin connection points compared to larger tanks. But you're covered there from Mato.
You will want an adjustable idler sooner than later if it doesn't hav one already. You'll find the hull sides will have slightly different suspension distances, so getting the tracks even via entire links won't work.
You will want an adjustable idler sooner than later if it doesn't hav one already. You'll find the hull sides will have slightly different suspension distances, so getting the tracks even via entire links won't work.
10-25-2014, 06:42 AM
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I received my tank on Wednesday, look's really good. I had problems with the transmitter and batteries as it would not power up until I rolled the batteries around for a better connection. That problem never came back. Once that was fixed I turned on the tank and noticed one of the lights never came on, hmm can not remember if both should have came on or not so I was not worried. I charged the battery and ran the tank in my house for about 5 mins, let me tell you hard wood floors are not the best for running tank as they slide way to much.
Thursday afternoon I get home from work and decide to take the tank outside. Get everything ready and bring the bag of 6mm BB's. I put in about 6 BB's and the tank was not always firing them, it would shoot 2 at a time, or it just would not pick up the BB's, but I thought it had to do with the amount of BB's I put in so I did not worry about it. Ran the tank in the yard for 10 mins, it runs really well over the variety of terrain I have in my back yard.
Friday afternoon,
I add a little smoke oil to see if that works and fill the BB hopper full, Go outside and run the tank, BB's sort of working right most of the time but not always. After driving for about 5 mins notice that the gun is not trying to shoot BB's anymore and making a noise like it is trying but is jammed. Turn off the gun, turn off the smoke, I decide that I will drive around the back yard a bit more. Will not drive in forward on one side, but will in reverse. Try to see if it is jammed but do not see anything, try again same thing. Very frustrated I turn off the tank to take it inside and notice that one track is coming off the drive sprocket and that one half of a top idler wheel is on the ground.
Take tank inside and take the screws out to separate the body to have a look. Drive gears are fine (or so it seems), notice a wire is off from a light which explains only one light working, Must have happened when Matomart installed the metal gearbox, or from the factory. Could not see anything else wrong so I am now thinking that some of my problems might have been with a weak battery. I will gorilla glue the Idler wheel half back on and solder the wire back together and give it another try today or tomorrow.
Do you guys think I am on the right track or do I have another problem that I am not seeing?
I am still waiting to hear from Matomart as I sent a support email on Thursday about my earlier issues.
Thursday afternoon I get home from work and decide to take the tank outside. Get everything ready and bring the bag of 6mm BB's. I put in about 6 BB's and the tank was not always firing them, it would shoot 2 at a time, or it just would not pick up the BB's, but I thought it had to do with the amount of BB's I put in so I did not worry about it. Ran the tank in the yard for 10 mins, it runs really well over the variety of terrain I have in my back yard.
Friday afternoon,
I add a little smoke oil to see if that works and fill the BB hopper full, Go outside and run the tank, BB's sort of working right most of the time but not always. After driving for about 5 mins notice that the gun is not trying to shoot BB's anymore and making a noise like it is trying but is jammed. Turn off the gun, turn off the smoke, I decide that I will drive around the back yard a bit more. Will not drive in forward on one side, but will in reverse. Try to see if it is jammed but do not see anything, try again same thing. Very frustrated I turn off the tank to take it inside and notice that one track is coming off the drive sprocket and that one half of a top idler wheel is on the ground.
Take tank inside and take the screws out to separate the body to have a look. Drive gears are fine (or so it seems), notice a wire is off from a light which explains only one light working, Must have happened when Matomart installed the metal gearbox, or from the factory. Could not see anything else wrong so I am now thinking that some of my problems might have been with a weak battery. I will gorilla glue the Idler wheel half back on and solder the wire back together and give it another try today or tomorrow.
Do you guys think I am on the right track or do I have another problem that I am not seeing?
I am still waiting to hear from Matomart as I sent a support email on Thursday about my earlier issues.
10-25-2014, 08:49 AM
#11
Welcome to the world of Heng Long tanks. The first two I bought had to be sent back because they didn't run. You really have to get lucky and get a decent one, and then you'll still have to work on it. Airsoft guns and smoke units fail all the time. Good thing they're only ten bucks a pop. I usually keep a couple of each "in stock" because I know I'll need them eventually. You said one side wouldn't drive forward, while you have the top off rotate the gear that contacts the motor pinion with your finger while keeping just a little bit of drag on the track at the drive sprocket with your other hand. If you have any bad spots in your geartrain this will expose them as the drive sprocket revolves. Make sure you keep turning the gear until the drive sprocket makes a full revolution. That's not a very good explanation, so if you need to I could make a video showing you how to check out the gears, or maybe Commander Bob already has one. I have a taigen PIV to demonstrate on if we need it. Can you show a picture of the inside of your tank? A video would be even better as a lot of guys here can diagnose gear problems by sound, and even I am beginning to recognize problem sounds in airsoft units and smoke generators. I haven't had much luck with Matomart, but a lot of guys speak highly of them so if they do the right thing they'll send you whatever parts you need to make the tank function as it should have out of the box, and then give you a nice discount on a future order to make up for your trouble.
10-26-2014, 12:23 PM
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Well I charged the battery and replaced the sprockets to see if that would help, but no. Seems that I have a gear box problem, I sent a email to matomart but no reply.
10-26-2014, 03:18 PM
#13
If you don't hear from Matomart tomorrow I'll make a video showing you how to diagnose problems in your gearbox. Or maybe I should say check it's health. I tried to explain it above. You'd be surprised how much you can tell by how they feel.
10-26-2014, 07:44 PM
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I received my tank on Wednesday, look's really good. I had problems with the transmitter and batteries as it would not power up until I rolled the batteries around for a better connection. That problem never came back. Once that was fixed I turned on the tank and noticed one of the lights never came on, hmm can not remember if both should have came on or not so I was not worried. I charged the battery and ran the tank in my house for about 5 mins, let me tell you hard wood floors are not the best for running tank as they slide way to much.
Thursday afternoon I get home from work and decide to take the tank outside. Get everything ready and bring the bag of 6mm BB's. I put in about 6 BB's and the tank was not always firing them, it would shoot 2 at a time, or it just would not pick up the BB's, but I thought it had to do with the amount of BB's I put in so I did not worry about it. Ran the tank in the yard for 10 mins, it runs really well over the variety of terrain I have in my back yard.
Friday afternoon,
I add a little smoke oil to see if that works and fill the BB hopper full, Go outside and run the tank, BB's sort of working right most of the time but not always. After driving for about 5 mins notice that the gun is not trying to shoot BB's anymore and making a noise like it is trying but is jammed. Turn off the gun, turn off the smoke, I decide that I will drive around the back yard a bit more. Will not drive in forward on one side, but will in reverse. Try to see if it is jammed but do not see anything, try again same thing. Very frustrated I turn off the tank to take it inside and notice that one track is coming off the drive sprocket and that one half of a top idler wheel is on the ground.
Take tank inside and take the screws out to separate the body to have a look. Drive gears are fine (or so it seems), notice a wire is off from a light which explains only one light working, Must have happened when Matomart installed the metal gearbox, or from the factory. Could not see anything else wrong so I am now thinking that some of my problems might have been with a weak battery. I will gorilla glue the Idler wheel half back on and solder the wire back together and give it another try today or tomorrow.
Do you guys think I am on the right track or do I have another problem that I am not seeing?
I am still waiting to hear from Matomart as I sent a support email on Thursday about my earlier issues.
Thursday afternoon I get home from work and decide to take the tank outside. Get everything ready and bring the bag of 6mm BB's. I put in about 6 BB's and the tank was not always firing them, it would shoot 2 at a time, or it just would not pick up the BB's, but I thought it had to do with the amount of BB's I put in so I did not worry about it. Ran the tank in the yard for 10 mins, it runs really well over the variety of terrain I have in my back yard.
Friday afternoon,
I add a little smoke oil to see if that works and fill the BB hopper full, Go outside and run the tank, BB's sort of working right most of the time but not always. After driving for about 5 mins notice that the gun is not trying to shoot BB's anymore and making a noise like it is trying but is jammed. Turn off the gun, turn off the smoke, I decide that I will drive around the back yard a bit more. Will not drive in forward on one side, but will in reverse. Try to see if it is jammed but do not see anything, try again same thing. Very frustrated I turn off the tank to take it inside and notice that one track is coming off the drive sprocket and that one half of a top idler wheel is on the ground.
Take tank inside and take the screws out to separate the body to have a look. Drive gears are fine (or so it seems), notice a wire is off from a light which explains only one light working, Must have happened when Matomart installed the metal gearbox, or from the factory. Could not see anything else wrong so I am now thinking that some of my problems might have been with a weak battery. I will gorilla glue the Idler wheel half back on and solder the wire back together and give it another try today or tomorrow.
Do you guys think I am on the right track or do I have another problem that I am not seeing?
I am still waiting to hear from Matomart as I sent a support email on Thursday about my earlier issues.
10-27-2014, 05:04 AM
#15
I would wait and see what matomart says. If they don't help we'll still get ya fixed up, Wolf. I've got a couple extra RX-18s layin' around if you need one, you're in Colorado so postage will be next to nothing. We need all the new blood we can get in this hobby so there's no way we're gonna let ya get away, Bro. Welcome to the wonderful world of RC Tanks ... now we have you and you'll never get away (insert maniacal, evil laugh here).
Welcome to the wonderful world of RC Tanks ... now we have you and you'll never get away (insert maniacal, evil laugh here).
10-27-2014, 05:08 AM
#16
One quick test you can do to see if it's the board is just switch the motor plugs around and see if it does the same thing. If the left gearbox won't go forward, plug it into the right side jack on the MFU and see if it does the same thing there. If it doesn't then your problem is electrical and not mechanical. To be double certain, plug the right (assuming the left is the bad one) into the left jack and see if it goes in both directions. If both gearboxes won't go in reverse when plugged into the same jack then it's electrical, but if one gearbox acts the same way no matter which side it's plugged into then it's the gearbox.
Last edited by Max-U52; 10-27-2014 at 05:13 AM.
10-27-2014, 06:41 AM
#18
I'm not sure I'd go that far. I've burnt stuff up like that before. I would just swap the plugs and see if the problem goes to the other side. If you switch the plugs for the left and right motor and the other side then will only run in one direction you know it's not in the gearbox. Which side are you having trouble with right now?
10-27-2014, 07:26 AM
#19
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No problem with my tanks atm. I'm just thinking connecting the motor directly to battery for short time to test. This is what my LHS did when they examined my tank to find out why the board fried (to rule out bad motor or gearbox).
The reason why I come out with this idea is that, if he swapped the plug & the motor still doesn't move forward, we still can't conclude it's gearbox problem because that port may faulty too by then. Usually this is what happen. At first the left doesn't want to move forward & later both doesn't want to move forward. Then smoke coming out from the board.
I don't see anything written on the HL motors to check out their specs though. Is it 380 or 390? Either they should be able to handle 7.2V.
Actually it's good idea to wait matomart before doing anything. I'm just brainstorming what he could do, hypothetically.
The reason why I come out with this idea is that, if he swapped the plug & the motor still doesn't move forward, we still can't conclude it's gearbox problem because that port may faulty too by then. Usually this is what happen. At first the left doesn't want to move forward & later both doesn't want to move forward. Then smoke coming out from the board.
I don't see anything written on the HL motors to check out their specs though. Is it 380 or 390? Either they should be able to handle 7.2V.
Actually it's good idea to wait matomart before doing anything. I'm just brainstorming what he could do, hypothetically.
Last edited by kizwan; 10-27-2014 at 07:44 AM.
10-27-2014, 08:57 AM
#20
Hey Kizwan, I agree that there shouldn't be any problem with hooking the motor directly to the battery but I'm not 100% sure so I won't recommend it to someone. If I'm wrong and it fries his motor that would be my fault and we don't want that. The best I can do is send Wolf an RX-18 that I'm sure works properly and he can try that. If it runs good with my RX-18 then he knows his is bad and can go from there, but like we've both said, the best thing to do is wait for matomart and see what they do. If they don't fix it we'll get it going again. Like I said, we've now got Wolflord in our clutches and we ain't lettin' him get away!!
The best I can do is send Wolf an RX-18 that I'm sure works properly and he can try that. If it runs good with my RX-18 then he knows his is bad and can go from there, but like we've both said, the best thing to do is wait for matomart and see what they do. If they don't fix it we'll get it going again. Like I said, we've now got Wolflord in our clutches and we ain't lettin' him get away!!
10-27-2014, 09:36 AM
#21
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Ahh the pleasure of a Heng Long.
I never run a heng long out of the Box. I take it apart, and check the gears. Remove the gear boxes, and remove the motors. Freely spin the output drives and ensure you have no gear cogging. If everything runs smoothly then reinstall everything. Typically I get rid of the standard gear ratio, but I do have a couple of tanks running the standard ratio, and they are still going strong. Key is to make sure you gear train is running smoothly.
With the standard gears the RX18 is a weak link. The stall current generated when the gears lock up can exceed the limit of the RX18 electronics. My advice to anyone with a new tank is to ensure your gear boxes are running smoothy. I personally get rid of the standard gears and go with the gears wiht the 4 shafts. These provide way more torque to the output drive without stressing the electronics. A lot of people complain about the RX18, because it does fail with these standard gears. If they get jammed then you really risk smoking the RX18 if you drive to run the tight spot out.
With the lower gear ratio of the 4 shaft boxes the over stretched electronics become less of an issue. Ie the weak link is moved somewhere else. (Track link, output shaft)
A little late maybe, but for any other new guy, please understand that it is best to be safe. Spend some time taking a part a few things. Ultimately you will be required to do this, so you might as well make it sooner then later.
These come form the factory with known issues. Take the time to ensure you are not one of the guys who is waiting on parts to arrive to get back n the game. We can talk all we want baout when you buy somehitng it should work, but in the case of Heng Long, you need to take it apart, tweak a few things, and then enjoy it.
We have spent close to a decade discussing these issues here. It makes sense to heed the advice that is given. A couple of enjoyable hours learing how to disassemble your tank will turn into a much more rewarding expereince in the long run.
I never run a heng long out of the Box. I take it apart, and check the gears. Remove the gear boxes, and remove the motors. Freely spin the output drives and ensure you have no gear cogging. If everything runs smoothly then reinstall everything. Typically I get rid of the standard gear ratio, but I do have a couple of tanks running the standard ratio, and they are still going strong. Key is to make sure you gear train is running smoothly.
With the standard gears the RX18 is a weak link. The stall current generated when the gears lock up can exceed the limit of the RX18 electronics. My advice to anyone with a new tank is to ensure your gear boxes are running smoothy. I personally get rid of the standard gears and go with the gears wiht the 4 shafts. These provide way more torque to the output drive without stressing the electronics. A lot of people complain about the RX18, because it does fail with these standard gears. If they get jammed then you really risk smoking the RX18 if you drive to run the tight spot out.
With the lower gear ratio of the 4 shaft boxes the over stretched electronics become less of an issue. Ie the weak link is moved somewhere else. (Track link, output shaft)
A little late maybe, but for any other new guy, please understand that it is best to be safe. Spend some time taking a part a few things. Ultimately you will be required to do this, so you might as well make it sooner then later.
These come form the factory with known issues. Take the time to ensure you are not one of the guys who is waiting on parts to arrive to get back n the game. We can talk all we want baout when you buy somehitng it should work, but in the case of Heng Long, you need to take it apart, tweak a few things, and then enjoy it.
We have spent close to a decade discussing these issues here. It makes sense to heed the advice that is given. A couple of enjoyable hours learing how to disassemble your tank will turn into a much more rewarding expereince in the long run.
Last edited by YHR; 10-27-2014 at 09:38 AM.
10-27-2014, 10:07 AM
#22
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I agree but in my cases, the gears did not lock up & my RX18's still smoking. The second time it happened to me, the tank was running with the top removed. When I saw one of the track doesn't want to move forward, I did check the gears immediately. The gears can spin manually without any problem, both directions. Nothing wrong with the motors too. However, when I turn on the tank again, when I push the right stick forward, the RX18 smoking right away. Without changing or fixing anything on the gearboxes or motor, I can run it again with new board (HL 2.4GHz since it was second time RX18 fried, I just thought why not try different board) without any problem. I actually bashing the tank with the new board.
Bulldog (sticker on the tank show "2014", RX18 fried) >> replaced with used RX18 from 2013 tank - still working until now (the fan installed may contribute to this)
Pantiger (bought without electronics) >> installed brand new RX18 & steel gearbox (RX18 fried seconds after making sure the gears running smoothly) >> replaced with HL 2.4GHz - still working until now
Bulldog (sticker on the tank show "2014", RX18 fried) >> replaced with used RX18 from 2013 tank - still working until now (the fan installed may contribute to this)
Pantiger (bought without electronics) >> installed brand new RX18 & steel gearbox (RX18 fried seconds after making sure the gears running smoothly) >> replaced with HL 2.4GHz - still working until now
10-27-2014, 10:18 AM
#23
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Well I have 12 pound tanks with an RX18 running around. Difference is I typically toss the standard gear ratio. It is too fast and does not provide decent torque to the output drives
The 4 shaft boxes, or Mato, Waltersons' provide a much nicer torque curve, resulting in smooth starts and much more grunt power.
Before doing anything to a Heng Long tank throw away the standard gear ratio. They just don't cut it. I wish Mato would just import the tanks with the nylon drives. The pot metal standard gears are not worth the trouble in my opinion.
You can ask anyone who has upgraded gear boxes to the 4 shaft and they will tell you the difference and drivability make it the best upgrade out there.
I have an all metal tiger with a Mato 2.0 gear box, and an RX18. The track jammed and this electrical set up was strong enough to twist off the brass gear shaft.. The real root problem with a stock Heng Long is the gear ratio is too high.
So sure a lot of people toss the RX18 to help with the problem. Then after awhile they get tired of jack rabbit starts, and a tank that runs too fast, and they swap out gear boxes. The thing is if you changed the gears first you would end up with an RX18 that lasted, and a tank that drives more like a tank,
So my advice to a new tanker is buy a decent set of gears when you purchase your Heng long tank.. If you really feel the need to toss the RX18, these gears will still serve you well regardless of what ESC you use.
The 4 shaft boxes, or Mato, Waltersons' provide a much nicer torque curve, resulting in smooth starts and much more grunt power.
Before doing anything to a Heng Long tank throw away the standard gear ratio. They just don't cut it. I wish Mato would just import the tanks with the nylon drives. The pot metal standard gears are not worth the trouble in my opinion.
You can ask anyone who has upgraded gear boxes to the 4 shaft and they will tell you the difference and drivability make it the best upgrade out there.
I have an all metal tiger with a Mato 2.0 gear box, and an RX18. The track jammed and this electrical set up was strong enough to twist off the brass gear shaft.. The real root problem with a stock Heng Long is the gear ratio is too high.
So sure a lot of people toss the RX18 to help with the problem. Then after awhile they get tired of jack rabbit starts, and a tank that runs too fast, and they swap out gear boxes. The thing is if you changed the gears first you would end up with an RX18 that lasted, and a tank that drives more like a tank,
So my advice to a new tanker is buy a decent set of gears when you purchase your Heng long tank.. If you really feel the need to toss the RX18, these gears will still serve you well regardless of what ESC you use.
Last edited by YHR; 10-27-2014 at 10:52 AM.
10-27-2014, 11:07 AM
#24
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bandar Baharu, Kedah, Malaysia
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I'm not bashing RX18. I like RX18. My bulldog with RX18 drives a lot better than my pantiger with HL 2.4GHz. The HL 2.4GHz proportional speed & steering too sensitive while I can easily run my bulldog at slow or fast speed with RX18. Proportional steering also a lot better with RX18 than HL 2.4GHz. I don't know whether the rear or front wheel drives have anything to do with it though. Maybe with reduced ratio gearboxes, I wouldn't fried my second RX18 but in my case it wasn't jammed gears that fried RX18. I doubt reduced gear ratio could help me in the situation though.
I saw picture of your tank in another thread. Your RX18 look different though.
I know, I believed you in regard to the 4 shaft gearboxes. I want one or two for my tanks. When I'm ready to pay 15% to 25% of customs tax.
I saw picture of your tank in another thread. Your RX18 look different though.
I know, I believed you in regard to the 4 shaft gearboxes. I want one or two for my tanks. When I'm ready to pay 15% to 25% of customs tax.
Last edited by kizwan; 10-27-2014 at 11:15 AM.
10-27-2014, 12:41 PM
#25
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AB, CANADA
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The RX18 has a legion of bashers, it has earned it!!!!!! Still I like them and the DBC line needs them, so through neccessity I have learned how to make them last, as have others.
When hooked up to a good set of gears, and RX18 will control a tank as good as any other system, throw in a DBC with the added momentum and it gets that much better. Contrary to what others say, I feel the RX18 is one of the best values out there. You get a lot for $20, as long as you are aware of its limitations and take steps to mitigating its short comings. iF you don't then yes, it probably will fail on you at some time.
Without going into the whole DBC thing,all I will say is that there is so much more that cheap controller is capable of if you want it to.
When hooked up to a good set of gears, and RX18 will control a tank as good as any other system, throw in a DBC with the added momentum and it gets that much better. Contrary to what others say, I feel the RX18 is one of the best values out there. You get a lot for $20, as long as you are aware of its limitations and take steps to mitigating its short comings. iF you don't then yes, it probably will fail on you at some time.
Without going into the whole DBC thing,all I will say is that there is so much more that cheap controller is capable of if you want it to.
