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Spade Ace 1/16 SAT-16022 Metal Track Pz 38(t)

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Spade Ace 1/16 SAT-16022 Metal Track Pz 38(t)

Old 02-18-2015, 03:52 PM
  #26  
sassgrunt
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Originally Posted by MAUS45 View Post
Mike I use a product called Blacken-It and have used Gun Blue as well. The Blacken-It seems to work the best on Kenny Kongs tracks and the Impact tracks as well. Most HobbyTown USA's carry Blacken-It. Just Google it. I think Micromark.com carries it as well. Here is what it did to a set of Impact Panzer III Tracks and Asiatam drive sprocket and idlers.
Rudy, your advice was spot-on! I just tried Blacken-it, and two minutes seems about perfect. The only thing that didn't darken were the two square recesses (on the outside of the track face, in between the holes for the sprocket). For some reason, those two small areas stayed shiny on every link. Even the pin heads were darkened (although it seems like it can be rubbed off of them pretty easily). I like it though - thank you for the tip!
Old 02-19-2015, 06:59 AM
  #27  
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Maybe air got trapped in those square areas? You could try using a q-tip to swab some of the blaken-it into those areas to see if that gets it done? I have not had a chance to try mine yet. Will do it this weekend though and let you know the results. I will post a photo as well.

Last edited by MAUS45; 02-19-2015 at 07:01 AM.
Old 02-19-2015, 08:46 AM
  #28  
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Mike would you post a photo of your results? I meant to ask you in my last post.
Old 02-23-2015, 07:24 AM
  #29  
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Here are the results I got when I dropped these two links into the Blacken-It solution. I meant to time this but got distracted and didn't mark the time, but I know it was not more then 5-10 minutes. The reason I left it that long is that this is some used solution and I kenw it would take longer to work. The one thing I did was pre swap the two squares on thr face of the tracks with a q-tip. I have not painted or added any weathering to the links. They are as they came out of the solution rinsed in water and air dried.
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Last edited by MAUS45; 02-23-2015 at 07:36 AM.
Old 02-23-2015, 11:01 AM
  #30  
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Looks like that's what my lack-of-coverage problems was for those two squares. I'll swap them with a Q-tip when I do the rest of them. Thank you, Rudy.
Old 02-23-2015, 12:17 PM
  #31  
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Mike, did yours look like this except for the squares on ther face of the tracks?
Old 02-23-2015, 04:34 PM
  #32  
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Yes, nearly exactly like yours came out. However, they are a little less "crusty" because I didn't leave them in the solution more than 2 minutes.
Old 02-25-2015, 08:39 AM
  #33  
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Here are some photos with the "Crusty's" knocked off. I have included a photo of the Tiger II's tracks I took at Fort Knox before it was moved to Fort Benning for comparison. For me, the 38t tracks look quite realistic for model tracks.

Edit: Ok I couldn't find my Tiger II Photos so here are a two I found on the Internet.
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Last edited by MAUS45; 02-25-2015 at 10:19 AM.
Old 02-25-2015, 01:30 PM
  #34  
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Not a big rusty track fan myself but I like the look of those. Sort of looks like a track link you'd find on eBay that some has dug up and selling to collectors and the like.

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