Poor Design of T-34 by Taigen
#51
well it sounds like the T34 is going to be a tank of a tank on the battlefield once it is all said and done. Not to bogart the thread but your issue got me thinking about my JS-2. Now my lower hull is metal and the idler system is attached to the hull. there is only a small piece of metal that is used to help brace the hull. The lower glacis is just plastic and is a failure point for the JS-2. So to try to help corret his I added a piece of aluminum angle to mount attachment to the idler and lower glacis. My hope is that the angle aluminum will help to brace this area and prevent any camber problems that might be caused once I upgrade the tracks and motors. I'll start a seperate thread on it in case any of my other fellow JS-2 owners want to throw thier thoughts on it or even try it out for themselves.
Bill
Bill
Just as a reference point, my JS-2 got knocked off a table at an event (before it's first shot was ever fired) and landed on the idler. It was bent in. About 5 minutes with a set of needle nose and I was on the battlefield. For over a year it's still going strong, tracking straight with no ill effects or need to brace and it's usually driven by my 13 year old son over all types of junk.
I would ask around about going with metal tracks on this one. Most battlers avoid them except with the Pz III/IV where plastic may be too weak. There's a lot of meat to the Tamiya JS-2 links, really no need to beat up things by running metal IMO.
#52
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From: Quakertown PA
Bill,
Just as a reference point, my JS-2 got knocked off a table at an event (before it's first shot was ever fired) and landed on the idler. It was bent in. About 5 minutes with a set of needle nose and I was on the battlefield. For over a year it's still going strong, tracking straight with no ill effects or need to brace and it's usually driven by my 13 year old son over all types of junk.
I would ask around about going with metal tracks on this one. Most battlers avoid them except with the Pz III/IV where plastic may be too weak. There's a lot of meat to the Tamiya JS-2 links, really no need to beat up things by running metal IMO.
Just as a reference point, my JS-2 got knocked off a table at an event (before it's first shot was ever fired) and landed on the idler. It was bent in. About 5 minutes with a set of needle nose and I was on the battlefield. For over a year it's still going strong, tracking straight with no ill effects or need to brace and it's usually driven by my 13 year old son over all types of junk.
I would ask around about going with metal tracks on this one. Most battlers avoid them except with the Pz III/IV where plastic may be too weak. There's a lot of meat to the Tamiya JS-2 links, really no need to beat up things by running metal IMO.
#53
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (2)
Bill,
I would NOT recommend metal tracks as per Daryl Turner and his experience with tanks over the years at Danville. One of two things will occur, either the gearbox will go from stripping of the gears or infrastructure of the hull. This was the main reason I pulled off the metal road wheels and metal tracks off of the Taigen.
I would NOT recommend metal tracks as per Daryl Turner and his experience with tanks over the years at Danville. One of two things will occur, either the gearbox will go from stripping of the gears or infrastructure of the hull. This was the main reason I pulled off the metal road wheels and metal tracks off of the Taigen.




