I'm a bit confused on how to assemble the light unit for this tank. The instructions, like this pic, show one plug and three tiny LEDs. But what I have is two plugs and two large LEDs that will clearly not fir through the hull front openings, and nothing else in the box looks more like the one in drawing. Am I doing something wrong, or wrong part,or what?

That looks like the more modern lighting unit I have with the is-2. It uses fibre optics to take the light to the head and tail lights. The normal Pershing unit should have four tiny bulbs

Yes, one bulb and two pieces of fiber optic for the front and rear. Mine had a supplemental instruction sheet for the new light unit.

Ahh, i found the sheet. There's one very long piece of fiber optic, do I just cut it into four even pieces?

I had to do this to my Pershing after the original lights burned out. I ran all my light wiring and made sure I had it where I wanted. Then I just cut the fiber optic individually. You only get 1 piece so you want to make sure its right before you cut. I think most of the Pershings only run 1 tail/Brake light, Rear Left. I bought some some more fiber optic and added the Rear Right Tail/Brake light. There is a bit of trial and error positioning the fiber optic in the headlights. The position of the fiber optic in the headlight will change the lighting affect. I positioned (in the dark) where it looked the best and then just put a drop of glue on it to hold it in position.

Perfect description on how to do it Shorty54.

In my Sherman I replaced these two LED boxes and light fibers with just 4 SMD LEDs. It works much better. I just cutted off these boxes and soldered instead of them 2 red LEDs for the rear and two warm white for the front.

Right, well, I found the sheet and got them done. It said to cut them into three even 100mm pieces. Thanks guys! Just one small step left and then I can start on the turret...

You're going to like that tank.

Now to hope I packed the wires in tight and not bind up the turret !

There's a webpage with rear light description:

http://www.mikereidconstruction.com/...ail_Lights.htm

Maybe it could be usefull....

Doesn't matter, the clip for gun elevation decided it would much rather get lost so that I have to buy more, so that THOSE can fly off and get lost, until I've spent the cost of the tank itself just of spare parts that still prefer to get lost and lost adn lost...

Has happened to all of us. Grab yourself a cry towel (just a dish towel if need be) to put underneath your build. Wont stop things from flying up away from ya, but if something drops it'll dampen the fall and your screw, bracket, washer, etc doesn't go missing.

Ahh thanks...seriously though, how do I get that little C-clip onto the cannon elevation motor? It just refuses to go on, and it was to small to spread it apart AND push...

Edit: Finally got it on! Yesssssss

Lat things, how do I arrange these wires so not to bind up the turret? Test drove it and turret would only turn slightly before clicking. Also, what holds the mantlet in place? I can;t find anything on that in the instructions, so it just slights forward whenever.

Take a look at page #28, step #41, then F6 and F13. I used shoe goo to hold them together incase I ever wanted to separate the two.

I use scotch tape on my wires coming out of the turret. I bundle them and then tape every couple of inches. I leave the flash unit cable out of the mix. When I put on the top hull, I allow the bundle to make kind of a circle towards the rear of the turret.

There are some good write ups on the Pershing wiring arrangement, just search for them. Here is one that Bob does,

http://www.rctankcommand.com/before-...er-photos.html

The best wire management tip for the Pershing is to cut the speaker box so the battery slips into it. That will give more room for the bundle in the hull. You will also want to open the loaders hatch and pull as much wire into the back of the turret as needed.
You can get away with the last tip and not cut the speaker box. I did that on my last pershing, but I'm going to cut the speaker box on this one also.

Here is the supplemental instruction sheet that comes with tanks with the new light unit. Different plugs for the 3 pin depending on the MFU, but the 2 pin goes to CN5 on all of them.