Imex-Erik

From my testing it is darn near impossible to break a Sabertooth under normal conditions. I have made a 2x12 go nuts and incorrectly configured it multiple times in a row with high voltage and in almost every dip switch configuration and it still runs strong. Heck my 2x5 runs our metal Tigers with not even a sweat much less the 2x12. I think you will have to try much harder to destroy one of those
What kind of camo are you going to do on the halftrack? I think it looks pretty good as is actually.

Old MSgt

That's good to know about how hard it is to 'fry' it. I'm using the same 2X25 and 2X10 ESCs in a couple of other tanks and never had a problem (except for one blown fuze one time but that was my fault...). The 2X25 is advertised for vehicles at '100 pounds combat, 300 pounds driving' and it runs this almost 400 pound tank without a whimper.

I don't know what patterns I'm going to paint'em... I also kinda like the half track in this one color. Might weather/use some detail on it.

The P4 (when I get done adding details IF they ever arrive!), I was initially looking at France/BOTB paint schemes. BUT since I also like IT'S solid color, I've been thinking about getting some palm tree/Africa Corp emblems to go on it. It just has a lot of minute details that probably wouldn't be even noticed if covered up with camo.

Right now I think both of'em look 'clean' right like they are... and you settled my politics on leaving the colors as they are! THANKS!

I'll take a couple of pics tomorrow of both of'em the same color.

Mike

Crius

Just ship 'em up here, Mike, and I'll happily paint them both for you at no charge. I should be able to have them back to you in a year or two. Bwahahahaha!!

Old MSgt

Thanks for the offer of help Crius!! I really appreciate it! I'll keep it in mind!

But Erik has swayed me (which wasn't too hard to push me over the edge!) to keep'em the colors they are. I'll just highlight'em a little, add some markings and accessories, and they'll be ready to go. The NEXT owner (hopefully far in the future) can paint'em to his taste.

If I can scrape up some coin I may try to get a few more crewmen to sit in the half track. And maybe some more gas cans and stuff to go in the rear racks.

Thanks again Crius! Mike

Imex-Erik

Or you can ship it here.... I'll trade you some 16th scale ones

Old MSgt

It's sunny and WARM today (over 70!) and tomorrow the same (80+) so I've been running most of my tanks before the Arctic blast moves in. PERFECT day to throw on the tank top, shorts, flip flops, and drank ICE COLD BEE... refreshments!

I said yesterday I'd take some pics of the Sd. Kfz. 7 with the P4. They're closer to the same size (and about weigh the same too).

I'm going to leave the 7 the solid color and I was the P4 too... then this morning I was looking at the SSCC 2014 show and there's a Panzer III on a table with only green camo and it looks so good. Got me thinking about the P4...

BUT it's a long winter, got lots of time, so I might try to find some Afrika Korp stencils or just get out the air brush and green paint.

Just wanted to post a couple of pics of'em. They'll look better once they're weathered. Mike

Panther F

Looking good Mike, yep... really good.

I took advantage of the nice weather today too. Took the day off and started painting on my Tamiya Jagdpanther build. No beer though.

I want a German Halftrack now.




Jeff

Old MSgt

I think it wouldn't be hard for the major 1/16 rc tank manufacturers to make a German half track. Here's the track links of the Panzer IV and the half track.

The big, thick links are the half track and the skinny, thinner links are the P4. The half track links (and pins) are a lot heavier, beefy, stronger, than the P4.

They could make a Sd. Kfz. half track, cast (plastic or metal) the thick links, throw in a servo with Y cable for front steering, and they'd be hooked!

Imex-Erik

The problem isn't the model itself, but a new motherboard would need to be made to take advantage of the dual tracks and servo. If you did something where both tracks did not have individual control and added a servo it would be much easier for current platforms to support. I think that is the kicker

Old MSgt

I was out driving the 7 today (cause it's kind of a HOOT once I got used to it) and, as I explained in post earlier up above, the front wheels do a lot of the steering by themselves on pavement, grass, and some on gravel. The only times I give it a slight track steering is for SHARP turns and in sand.

It has REALLY surprised me how much the front wheels DO steer it without having to use a little of the tracks (only if needed). If there were no front wheels it would (using the rear tracks) steer exactly like a tank. Like the Kettenkrad 'motorcycle' really didn't need the front wheel.

Looks like if the mechanics inside was made just like a rc tank and have a servo to just turn the front steering wheels, it'd be an rc half track. And a mother board would have to be tweeked to add a servo. The design 'brains' made a mother board for a tank at one time.

And a real tank has stronger torsion bars in the middle of the hull. Each end from the center are adjusted softer. That's why tanks rock so much when the suddenly stop. Now if the center two or four road wheels on a German half track were set stiffer, then turning with the front wheels would be easier it would seem.

I don't know cause I'M AN IDIOT. But if all it would take is reprograming a mother board and adding a little servo to have a 1/16 halftrack... isn't there any wires from a mother board (recoil, elevation, traverse) that could run a small servo?

Mike

Old MSgt

Heck, come to think of it (cause I thank a lot when I have a cold can in my hand!), it wouldn't even have to be a SERVO motor. Doesn't the ELEVATION gearbox/motor have to be able to go up or down? Why wouldn't THAT be able to move a steering arm? It's precise, is geared, and moves the barrel up or down. What about using THAT to a steering linkage?

That way the rear tracks would still go together but the front wheels COULD steer the half track but if more steering was needed, then use the track steering.

Three channels is all that would be needed. One for front wheel steering, (then just like our tanks) one channel for fwd/rev, and one for track steering.

There's no turret, main gun elevation, or traverse on a half track.

Imex-Erik

Well technically the new Taigen board could possibly run a half track if you don't mind losing individual control over the motors. You also would lose a trim option, but since the new upcoming Taigen board has an input from a hobby grade receiver you could just add a Y cable off of channel 1 and steer with that and channel 3 for throttle. The board wouldn't know the difference as long as it still seen the input. You could either use one motor output to drive both motors (not a good idea for large or metal builds) or you could Y cable channel 3 and use it to power an external ESC.
I'm also aware of a board that supports both 2 motors + servo OR 1 motor + servo but it is not ready at the moment. It of course is hobby grade and was the same one I was testing at Danville. It can run any scale actually and supports almost any type of control you could think of with no limits on HOW you want to control it.

Just thought that through! Yea you are totally right! You could tap off the turret rotation or elevation controls and use those as well! The new system is 6ch so yea plenty of options! You could run it like a normal tank with ch1/ch3 for steering and throttle and ch4 for the front steering.

Old MSgt

In reference to the above post, you LOST ME right after the first word 'Well...'. But YOU know the technical stuff a HECK of a lot more than I do.

I'm an idiot at electrics but pretty good at mechanical.

I just think a Sd. Kfz. 7 (or a U.S. M3 if ya make rubber tracks) wouldn't be too difficult for an rc manufacturer to produce. It probably couldn't 'battle' (unless a flak gun was put on the back deck) but this half track is sure FUN to drive!

Mike

Crius

Mike, you do know Torro makes an M16 halftrack in 1/16 scale, right? And asiatam makes a Famo in 1/16, too.

Gary

Crius

And you might want to ask Kevin about the Asp. I know it has a halftrack mode, can drive two motors and a servo (two servos, actually) with no problem.

It shouldn't be a problem to put throttle and track steer on the right stick and steering on the left.

Crius

OK, I just checked. Jackalope has done this. He started with Taigen electronics, wired the tracks just like a tank with a dual motor gearbox, and used a servo on turret rotation for steering. I'm not sure how well the taigen MFU worked out (no proportional steering) but he later changed to an IBU2 with the same set-up and I've seen that actual model (it started as a 21st century 1/18 Sdkfz 251) and it runs great.

And the IBU2 will operate on a 3s lipo so it will handle 12 volts.

Old MSgt

Thanks Crius! I didn't know that. I've been mostly in to tanks...

Mike

rivetcounter

Mike the jerking can also be electronic interference known as “Noise” from the motor or speed controller if this still happens this may be the cause, to improve the steering split the battery’s and place one in the front under the bonnet this will shift the weight from all being on the rear to 50/50 front and rear more weight over the front axles will help the front wheels dig in more as opposed to sliding forwards even though you are trying to turn placing the batteries all in the rear will cause a cantilever effect especially with the larger heavier batteries this will place all the weight on the rear slightly lifting the front and also reducing the front wheels grip.

Keep up the good work I enjoy your updates.

Crius
I have been working on a Dragon Schwimmwagen off and on for a few years about 90% of the parts I’m using are either modified or scratch built the vehicle has never turned a wheel but is on its 4[SUP]th[/SUP] set of transmission due the complexity of installing without reducing any of the detail the 21[SUP]st[/SUP] century version has a deeper body this makes life easier, some have used a 1/10 Tamiya chassis from the Gravel hound this gives the correct width but not the length you will have to cut the chassis to get it into the Schwimmwagen wane, the detail is also not that good but some have added detail to improve things.