Tank noble / Build thread / HL Leo 2A6M CAN.
02-01-2017, 07:33 AM
#101
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02-01-2017, 09:48 AM
#103
I have a FlySky i10 and it's one sweet piece of kit. The new 6 Channel also looks good, and Ian is playing with one right now. For my JagdPanther I use the TGY-i6 and it performs superbly. It's just a copy of the FlySky but I haven't had a single problem with it, and now that Ian has self Center kits I think it's a great TX if you want a separate TX for each tank. Affordable and easy to use.
02-03-2017, 02:48 PM
#104
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02-04-2017, 11:18 AM
#106
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02-04-2017, 05:54 PM
#107
Yeah, I had to make posts to get the henntec to work but it's not a big deal and if you want to use a henntec I'll make some posts for you (no charge, it's good for my karma). But that's a one time offer for Sgt. Parker. I don't want to get swamped making posts for the whole world! 
02-04-2017, 06:29 PM
#108
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Thank you for your offer, after checking the price at Etoarmour, going have to wait on getting it, needing to get some upgrades on some of my other stuff first, but thank you very much.
Last edited by sgtparker01; 02-04-2017 at 06:35 PM.
02-04-2017, 09:04 PM
#109
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I've been racing rcs since friday at noon. Tomorrow are the mains. Not doing well this time around. Cars have been giving ,etc gremlins this weekend. Oh well still fun. Monday I'll get back into tank land. Until Thursday when my gf comes to visit. Then I'll disappear till Sunday when she leaves lol
02-05-2017, 01:45 AM
#110
I understand the feeling, Sarge, and if you ever change your mind the offer stands.
02-07-2017, 06:56 PM
#115
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I got them off the etsy website. They are 1mm x 6mm size. They came from england. I had to buy 30 of them. Cost me like 15 bucks. I also got 4 brass hinges. 40mm wide from a hobby site in the uk for doll house. Going to make working rear mud flaps at some point. Cost me 1 dollar for the hinges and 5 bucks shipping haha
02-07-2017, 07:01 PM
#116
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thanks, I would like to do my Leo and my Abrams that way. so it would be 16 per tank. I found 50 for 12.50 located in Ill. Guessing you just used super glue?
Last edited by sgtparker01; 02-07-2017 at 07:07 PM.
02-07-2017, 08:18 PM
#118
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The magnets fit perfectly into the lower hull posts. Then I used the drummer and sanded down the upper hall posts about 2 to 3mm down. Since magets have a + and - what I did was glue the magnets into the lower hull, then put the magnets I will use in the upper hall on top of them. Then mark the top of those magnets so I know that the marked side is the side that will get glued to the upper hull posts.
Also I would start at the front. I had to sand down the front posts a little more to get a better seal at the front. You will see as you do it.
The magnets aren't super strong (as in you wouldn't want to try and carry the tank by the turret) but it's enough to hold the 2 hulls together. I guess time will tell once I do aren't field test when it's not -40c outside lol
https://www.etsy.com/ca/transaction/1229176218
Link to magnets
http://www.alwayshobbies.com/components/fixings-$4-hinges-/hinges/40mm-hinges
Link to hinges
Hope that helps.
Also I would start at the front. I had to sand down the front posts a little more to get a better seal at the front. You will see as you do it.
The magnets aren't super strong (as in you wouldn't want to try and carry the tank by the turret) but it's enough to hold the 2 hulls together. I guess time will tell once I do aren't field test when it's not -40c outside lol
https://www.etsy.com/ca/transaction/1229176218
Link to magnets
http://www.alwayshobbies.com/components/fixings-$4-hinges-/hinges/40mm-hinges
Link to hinges
Hope that helps.
02-08-2017, 10:56 AM
#120
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The magnets fit perfectly into the lower hull posts. Then I used the drummer and sanded down the upper hall posts about 2 to 3mm down. Since magets have a + and - what I did was glue the magnets into the lower hull, then put the magnets I will use in the upper hall on top of them. Then mark the top of those magnets so I know that the marked side is the side that will get glued to the upper hull posts.
Also I would start at the front. I had to sand down the front posts a little more to get a better seal at the front. You will see as you do it.
The magnets aren't super strong (as in you wouldn't want to try and carry the tank by the turret) but it's enough to hold the 2 hulls together. I guess time will tell once I do aren't field test when it's not -40c outside lol
https://www.etsy.com/ca/transaction/1229176218
Link to magnets
http://www.alwayshobbies.com/components/fixings-$4-hinges-/hinges/40mm-hinges
Link to hinges
Hope that helps.
Also I would start at the front. I had to sand down the front posts a little more to get a better seal at the front. You will see as you do it.
The magnets aren't super strong (as in you wouldn't want to try and carry the tank by the turret) but it's enough to hold the 2 hulls together. I guess time will tell once I do aren't field test when it's not -40c outside lol
https://www.etsy.com/ca/transaction/1229176218
Link to magnets
http://www.alwayshobbies.com/components/fixings-$4-hinges-/hinges/40mm-hinges
Link to hinges
Hope that helps.
02-15-2017, 04:23 AM
#123
You might also want to think about some more bracing in that lower Hull. When you put in the magnets and take out the screws you take away a lot of the strength of the tank. Having the upper and a lower screwed together like that acts kind of like a unibody car and really provides a lot more strength. The magnets won't give you anything near that so you might want to brace the lower Hull to prevent too much Flex. Too much Flex can cause your tracks to throw pretty easy.
02-15-2017, 04:32 AM
#124
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Ya i am going to do that. Before the magnets i didnt like the flex of theblower hull already. I think people throw tracks after getting bigger motors and stuff. I havent throw and yet and the tracks feel tight when ive removed them to clean them
02-23-2017, 06:39 PM
#125
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As parts are slowly coming in I am trying to figure out the elevation. I know stock it's basic you go up all the way then back down. So uncool. So I want it to up and down anytime I want. Realistic. I saw how to do the mod for a Clark tk22 board. Would this work the same for the ibu2 pro board?