Making the Jump to 1/6 Scale?
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
It seems I may not be the only one that would really like to take a crack at 1/6 scale, so I thought it was time to talk about it a bit. Has anyone else been considering this? Lately I've been thinking about an FOA tank, which is not all metal but is considerably more cost effective for me. I'm thinking either a Stug IV
http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/foa...-iv-metal-kit/
or a Panzer III (I would opt for the Ausf. M)
http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/foa...m-n-metal-kit/
I could probably swing the basic kit and the motors/gearboxes to start with (not sure if I would need high or low profile for the P3, but they cost the same)
http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/foa...nd-generation/
And that would allow me to get the thing together in a static form, with electronics and stuff like sound, rotation/elevation, etc, to come later. I figure I'll have somewhere around $3,000 to $3,500 in it when it's complete, but this would allow me to kind of "pay as I build", if you will. If nothing else it would probably make for a very cool build log.
So what do you guys think? Anybody else wanna take on a big boy? They have some very cool kits, like the Panther G and the Tiger One. And then, I just saw an Armortek Tiger (all metal) for sale but he didn't list a price and it's on the wrong side of the Atlantic so shipping will be horrendous. Not to mention he probably wants at least 5K US for it.
http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/foa...-iv-metal-kit/
or a Panzer III (I would opt for the Ausf. M)
http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/foa...m-n-metal-kit/
I could probably swing the basic kit and the motors/gearboxes to start with (not sure if I would need high or low profile for the P3, but they cost the same)
http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/foa...nd-generation/
And that would allow me to get the thing together in a static form, with electronics and stuff like sound, rotation/elevation, etc, to come later. I figure I'll have somewhere around $3,000 to $3,500 in it when it's complete, but this would allow me to kind of "pay as I build", if you will. If nothing else it would probably make for a very cool build log.
So what do you guys think? Anybody else wanna take on a big boy? They have some very cool kits, like the Panther G and the Tiger One. And then, I just saw an Armortek Tiger (all metal) for sale but he didn't list a price and it's on the wrong side of the Atlantic so shipping will be horrendous. Not to mention he probably wants at least 5K US for it.
#3
Good idea Gary, I have spent several hours reading on FOA tanks. I am torn between metal and plastic, plastic being easier and Iighter to work with I suspect , but the metal looks cool, and with work weld seams can be addd with solder etc. I also like the way you can buy and build in stages starting w static model, as I can't afford it all at once. It seems like a great platform. I have an unbuilt Dragon panzer ii kit, but these seem more appealing
Last edited by Markocaster; 02-12-2017 at 02:56 PM.
#4

My Feedback: (1)
I've looked at these, not to buy as I'm happy with what I have but just to see what they use for construction. They are made of 20 gauge steel with castings( I'm guessing) for other parts such as tracks wheels and sprockets. 20 gauge steel is about 40 thousandths of an inch
or about 1mm. On the surface that seems thin but steel properly prepared of course is very strong. The closest comparison I have are my Sankyo models- a 1/10 scale type 74 and 1/8 type 61- these use about the same thickness of steel for the upper and lower hull. The type 74 weighs about 60 pounds and the 61 about 115 pounds. They've held up well but you need to take precautions when handling or working with steel. Damaged -bent steel is difficult to straighten without heating and heating can cause warping if not done carefully. Benefits of steel is you can braze accessories or attachments to it very readily with little specialty equipment; if you can use a TIG or MIG welder so much the better.
The company seems to improve their products periodically and they've been around for some time( unless I'm mistaken) and I hear their products are popular so you'll probably not want for 'how-to' aid and advice. They seem a viable alternative to the expensive Armortek ( and I know a number of purists who have bones to pick with Armortek) and certainly those fiberglass things from Russia. The only other one I'd consider, if I was in the market is Metalbox- but I'd check into customer feed back, I assume they're still around.
I'd say go for it.
Jerry
or about 1mm. On the surface that seems thin but steel properly prepared of course is very strong. The closest comparison I have are my Sankyo models- a 1/10 scale type 74 and 1/8 type 61- these use about the same thickness of steel for the upper and lower hull. The type 74 weighs about 60 pounds and the 61 about 115 pounds. They've held up well but you need to take precautions when handling or working with steel. Damaged -bent steel is difficult to straighten without heating and heating can cause warping if not done carefully. Benefits of steel is you can braze accessories or attachments to it very readily with little specialty equipment; if you can use a TIG or MIG welder so much the better.
The company seems to improve their products periodically and they've been around for some time( unless I'm mistaken) and I hear their products are popular so you'll probably not want for 'how-to' aid and advice. They seem a viable alternative to the expensive Armortek ( and I know a number of purists who have bones to pick with Armortek) and certainly those fiberglass things from Russia. The only other one I'd consider, if I was in the market is Metalbox- but I'd check into customer feed back, I assume they're still around.
I'd say go for it.
Jerry
#5
Great info Jerry. I think I will have a go at a FOA in the future. I would love an Armortek but that is out of my price range I am afraid and hard to find. I know we live in the same area and if you know anyone selling a large tank i would love to hear about it. I envy your large tank collection.
#6
R/C compatible... you will need to add everything that the Tamiya kit has!
Of course, these will not build up like any 1/16 will... since they are all metal.
Jeff
#7
I decided to take the plunge and go the Armortek route myself... If you go to their forums, you can peruse their used tank section, and if you want it, you email Gil @ Armortek to give your offers (Only certified Armortek owners are allowed to post.)
I missed out on an unfinished Pz IV that was dirt cheap in the USA last year, but decided to splurge on the Panther A.... Should be coming soon!
I missed out on an unfinished Pz IV that was dirt cheap in the USA last year, but decided to splurge on the Panther A.... Should be coming soon!
Last edited by Jarlath; 02-13-2017 at 08:50 AM.
#8
Now THAT will be an extreme build... the Armortek Panther Ausf.A
DO show it to us when you get it.
Jeff
DO show it to us when you get it.

Jeff
#9
But anyway I still think the tamiya kits are horrible overpriced, and I have two of them, lol.
#10
I had a chance to get one of these about 10 years ago as compensation/product review but passed on it because working with metal presented too many problems. The tac welding cannot be done (at least for me) inside so a shop or large garage is needed. It would have been great to do this but sanding, gluing and 1/16 is about the limit.
Jeff
Jeff
#11
The FOA kits are not that great. I also had one about 10 years ago and was not impressed with the quality. The Hull of the Panzer 4 sat in a garage unfinished. It was recycled when i lost the house and had to move. Wife wont let me lose the Makr 1 Tanks Leopard 2A6 though. That was a return from deployment present. THAT being said however. I do like the look of the FOA Electrics and am looking into getting a set for controlling my leopard as i would prefer something modular as opposed to the all in one board currently fitted to my tank
#13
If I had my choice it would be metal. These kits could easily be tig welded to get rid of most the rivet joints and the welds would make a great detail in the finished tank. Looks like with the proper esc's for brushed motors these kits could be run off the new tank control boards. All the rest of the functions could be done with servos and with up to 16 channels lots of things could be automated from guns to hatches to drivers.
Jimmy
Jimmy
#14
Years ago there was a build thread on a PIV and the guy had the scratch building skills of a Rex Ross and added so many of the missing details using resin upgrades he made along with evergreen that you couldn't tell it was the same kit.
It's a blank canvas for sure but like Gary said... it's a good "pay as I build".
I think Jerry would be the "in house go-to-guy" as far as working with sheet metal.

Jeff
#15
I have a BRA Pzr IV. The upper and lower hulls are great, the turret itself it good. ALL of the molded parts are HORRIBLE. The tracks are really good, you could not RC it unless you changed out the road wheels and suspension. He'll, ill sell you mine cheap, it takes up too much space now.




