Hello all:

My Tiagen T1 Early has an issue with the commanders copula hatch. It is a metal hatch and when it is open for the Apple to be installed it sits at a 90 degree angle to the copula. This blocks the right side of the Apple and will not allow hits to be taken on that side. As a field fix we removed the hatch (which came off in many pieces and caused wires to come loose on the Apple base, lol).

I prefer to have the hatch on to protect the Apple socket from dirt/dust and whatever else may want to get on it while running the tank without the Apple.

I need ideas for fixing this.

Do I purchase a late model copula and hatch so that it is still usable?

Do I move the Apple mounting socket to the loaders hatch (I think that is the name for the one to the right of the copula)?

Do I just use blue tack to keep it on when not running with an Apple?

Is there another option that I am missing?

If I replace the copula or move to the other hatch where can I buy a new mounting socket for the Apple (do they even sell that part separately)?

While I'm fixing it I might as well address my IR emitter issue also; it is mounted too far to the front of the gun mantel and gives a shot gun effect instead of what it should. If I can't move the current bulb (I am not sure how it is mounted in there); is there a way to buy just the bulb for it? I saw a lot of guys with them mounted on little clip on mounts on their barrels: what supplier carries those?

Thanks,

Skip

Hi, I have never owned or built an IR Tank but is it possible to buy or build a spacer that fits between the apple mount and the apple that will raise the apple to the level you need?
Shaun.

Most clubs allow for hatches, etc which are existing equipment.

Though the Tamiya apple sits high enough that it's not blocked by most, unless you using it on an early T-34.

That's the downside to metal, plastic can be easily altered so the hatch is removable if desired.

In terms of the emitter, It needs to be placed in a tube of the width of the bulb and a depth of 8mm I believe, hopefully someone will correct or confirm that.

I generally mount them in a tube in the gun sight or coax MG so it moves with the barrel. If you do that, just be careful that you're not blocking the signal with the barrel. I had one mounted in the Pz IV coax, but with the jut out in the mantlet, it would limit the signal on the left.

You could also put your emitter in the barrel, but with anything IR, it depends on where your fighting. Clubs frown on barrel emitters because you could then poke your barrel though an obstruction and fire without being hit.

If it's just you and friends, do what you want, I'd say leave the cupola as is. Turning a turret 45 degrees is not realistic as a defense, so why would a hatch obstruction be?

Our backyard setup is much stricter than club rules. I set the IR beam spread as a tank width at 30 feet. It's a great disadvantage at a meet, but much more tense IMO.

I use two sizes of Evergreen styrene tubing to mount the IR emitter.



1/4" cut to 11mm length
3/16" cut to 10mm length



Insert the smaller into the larger with enough of the smaller protruding to match the thickness of the gun mantle.

When I put an Impact apple and base in an Imex/Taigen Tiger One I had cupola issues, and this little video excerpt shows what I did to fix the problem. I use white tack (or blue tack) to hold down the cupola of choice and haven't lost one yet. I also set up the base so I can pop out two screws and rotate 45 degrees to change to TFA.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x0RmjXILc8 If I were to do it again the only thing I'd do differently would be to use plastic cupolas instead of metal.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...612.0.0.6tMo6i

In plastic I can get three cupolas delivered to Detroit for $13 US and yes, that's shipping included. I've used Heng Long's Store several times and haven't had a single problem yet. Your experience may vary, in case any of you jokers are lawyers.

I've been told it must be a tube no more than 6mm in diameter (ID) and the bulb tip has to be 9mm from the end of the tube.

I hope someone knows for sure because if it's 8mm then I did mine wrong. Doh!

Tube must be no more than 6mm ID and depth is 9mm from end of tube to bulb. These dimensions come from the emitter tube that Tamiya supplies with their kits or the TBU.

I use the Tamiya T1 emitter mount on the inside on my Taigen. I have a few as they come with the Apples. I can take a picture so you know where to glue it in. Dont use super glue if the emmiter is in the mount it will fog the bulb.

If you are buying an apple for your PZ4 then you will have one. You just need the tiny screw to hold the back of the mount on so the emitter stays in. Using this mount allows you to field replace the bulb should it fail or get weak.

Like gary said the plastic is good because you can dissassemble it and remove the hatch for Battles. I did this on my tamiya. I also have another late hatch if you are looking for one.

What does the Apple mount look like? Is it the white one for the clark boards or is it black like the tamiya?

Pat, you could also just go the very simple route. Grab a dremel and remove the hinge of the hatch/cupola. Just an on/off solution. Lay the hatch on for display and lift off to remove completely for the apple.

Thanks for the input. I like Gary's method but the white mounting piece for the apple is glued in my couple. I Amy just go with what. Rent suggested and put the hatch without hinge on to hide it. I think some blue tack will keep it from falling off.

i need to take my turret apart and see how the IR emitter bulb is mounted. Hopefully I can set it to the correct depth.

Skip

All my tanks are Taigens upgraded with Clark boards and the mounts made with the styrene tubing will give you the required 9mm depth and an opening that is less than 6mm. The IR emitter is kept in the tube with friction fitting as the inner diameter of the 1/4" tubing is slightly smaller than the diameter of the IR LED. If it ever burns out I can easily pull it out for replacement. I did some range testing outside in bright sunlight in my backyard and I was able to give and receive hits at 60 feet. The range was limited by the length of my yard. Hopefully this weekend I'll have time to test the maximum range somewhere else.

The mount is easily made and I have used it in Taigen's KV-1, T34/85, early and late model Tiger I, Panther G, and Panzer IV. The only issue I ran into is the muzzle brake on the Panzer IV causes a shadow to the right of the point of aim.

You don't have the same issue with the Tigers barrel ???

No. The emitter opening on the Tiger is far enough to the side where it doesn't seem to be affected by the barrel.