Look for how to build a target module
#1
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From: Houston, TX/Bend Or.
I looking to build a target module that could be attached to different devices. It could be attached to a building and movable flag for capture the flag or support trucks. Anyway you get the ideal. I have seen them here but never are the details given on how to build them. I can solder and know the difference between a resistor, cap and transistor. So really I just need a list of parts and their source and maybe a basic wiring diagram of some sort.
Thanks
Thanks
#2

Use an infrared detector with a 38Khz modulation frequency (40Khz will work also) if you can't get this RadioShack part. Pay attention to pin out if you use a different part, they differ between manufacturers. The 1M and 1uF will give you the flash time when hit. The 180 ohm is current limit for the LED. The 22uF is a filter, a .01uF in parallel next to the IC and detector wouldn't hurt. Shield the detector from ambient light, sunlight, camera flashes and other infrared emitters otherwise it will always flash. I recommend testing indoors in a dark room first.
#3
<img src="https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcuniverse.com-vbulletin/339x121/detector_circuit_acb7f09ffa649f743ea6d09c71c0dbfae ddb607b.jpg"/><br /><br />Use an infrared detector with a 38Khz modulation frequency (40Khz will work also) if you can't get this RadioShack part. Pay attention to pin out if you use a different part, they differ between manufacturers. The 1M and 1uF will give you the flash time when hit. The 180 ohm is current limit for the LED. The 22uF is a filter, a .01uF in parallel next to the IC and detector wouldn't hurt. Shield the detector from ambient light, sunlight, camera flashes and other infrared emitters otherwise it will always flash. I recommend testing indoors in a dark room first.
Last edited by Rad_Schuhart; 03-26-2019 at 02:56 AM.
#4
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Use an infrared detector with a 38Khz modulation frequency (40Khz will work also) if you can't get this RadioShack part. Pay attention to pin out if you use a different part, they differ between manufacturers. The 1M and 1uF will give you the flash time when hit. The 180 ohm is current limit for the LED. The 22uF is a filter, a .01uF in parallel next to the IC and detector wouldn't hurt. Shield the detector from ambient light, sunlight, camera flashes and other infrared emitters otherwise it will always flash. I recommend testing indoors in a dark room first.
#5
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#9
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Hey, if you're okay with just buying off the shelf, I already have this product offered here. etsy.com/shop/LegoDEI . It has 360 reception and hit LED's, and provides an output trigger for an external relay or sound board.



