Help needed updating a vintage Gepard
#1
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Help needed updating a vintage Gepard
Hi all.i've just rejoined the the forum after quite a long break from the tanking side of the hobby,i had the good fortune to win a Gepard at a great price on Tradera which is the Swedish version of ebay,it is very dusty and dirty but looks like it has seen little use with not too many parts missing,Only the gearbox and analogue speed controller are present inside.I really want to get this up and running but with modern electronics whilst retaing the awsome gearbox,so my question to you all is what system will work best,will a Heng Long system work the twin clutch steering mechanism or would a Clarke unit be better? I really don't know,i intend to modify the radar and gun barrels to work on their own channels and introduce headlights and sound so i will need a minimum of six channels,any help is appreciated,cheers Steve.
Last edited by StevieG 32; 06-11-2019 at 09:10 AM.
#2
He is our resident cantankerous member but Pcomm1.v2 with some assistance from DT built a fully functional and modern Gepard which is beautiful. See his builds and send him a message. He is a wealth of knowledge all things tank Tamiya.
#3
If you are going to keep the old gearbox you can't use a Clark board, HL board or anything else made to control 2 motors (crab steering). On the original Gepard, you just need a single channel reversible Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) that a crawler would use. Just make sure it will do a brushed motor and at least 20A. Hobby King sells them pretty cheap under their Turnigy brand. You'll need a standard servo to work the steering clutches. Add a pistol grip 2 channel radio, a battery and it should work.
Ideally, you should replace the gearbox with some new ones. Modelspeigel.com makes the best one out there for the Gep. Eto Armor makes similar ones, but not for the Gep (If it were me, I'd ask ETO directly if they could accomodate me with a Gep gearbox). Otherwise...go with the Tamiya Panther set for the long final drive shafts (which is what the Tamiya static version of the Gepard uses..sans gears).
Once you have upgraded the gearboxes, you can install the electronics of choice. Clark is the only company I am aware of that makes the Gepard sound-set.
Other nice toys for the Gep are available from this German website, sgs.electronic.de
Ideally, you should replace the gearbox with some new ones. Modelspeigel.com makes the best one out there for the Gep. Eto Armor makes similar ones, but not for the Gep (If it were me, I'd ask ETO directly if they could accomodate me with a Gep gearbox). Otherwise...go with the Tamiya Panther set for the long final drive shafts (which is what the Tamiya static version of the Gepard uses..sans gears).
Once you have upgraded the gearboxes, you can install the electronics of choice. Clark is the only company I am aware of that makes the Gepard sound-set.
Other nice toys for the Gep are available from this German website, sgs.electronic.de
#4
Jeff said it all, LOL.
Second Daryl B. Turner designed custom Gepard build by John.
First Daryl B. Turner designed custom Gepard build by John.
Tip. Contact Daryl B. Turner on Facebook for hard to find Gepard plastic parts,
he may still have a stash of Gepard plastic parts, including the often broken gun barrels.
For both Tamiya Gerard builds, go to "1/16 RC IR Tank Builds" on Facebook under Photos to see build photos for two Gepards.
• The second Gepard (8 Channel) uses a BARC System (unavailable now), aftermarket German sound card and a HL RX18 controller.
• The first Gepard (7 Channel) uses Tamiya JS2 DMD, MF Full Option Units with a Custom sound card.
• The turret and twin cannons are servo controlled, see below for an important setup part info.
• See all the build details and photos at my Facebook page.
Enjoy John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 06-11-2019 at 09:30 PM.
#5
If you are going to keep the old gearbox you can't use a Clark board, HL board or anything else made to control 2 motors (crab steering). On the original Gepard, you just need a single channel reversible Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) that a crawler would use. Just make sure it will do a brushed motor and at least 20A. Hobby King sells them pretty cheap under their Turnigy brand. You'll need a standard servo to work the steering clutches. Add a pistol grip 2 channel radio, a battery and it should work.
Once you have upgraded the gearboxes, you can install the electronics of choice. Clark is the only company I am aware of that makes the Gepard sound-set.
Other nice toys for the Gep are available from this German website, sgs.electronic.de
Once you have upgraded the gearboxes, you can install the electronics of choice. Clark is the only company I am aware of that makes the Gepard sound-set.
Other nice toys for the Gep are available from this German website, sgs.electronic.de
Last edited by sevoblast; 06-12-2019 at 08:15 AM.
#6
Servo elevation and depression gun control; Tip.
Visit: Camera Position Controller - Single Axis (Rev 2), Dionysus Design
Another good source for Tamiya Gepard and Tamiya Leopard 1A4 Parts:
https://afv-model.com/k92/Kettenfahr...NxbxSONFyviwGU
Another good source for Tamiya Gepard and Tamiya Leopard 1A4 Parts:
https://afv-model.com/k92/Kettenfahr...NxbxSONFyviwGU
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 06-11-2019 at 09:18 PM.
#7
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Thanks for all the replies chaps,you have all certainly given me food for thought,i will post some photos soon,as a newbie i have to make ten posts before i can add attachments, Regarding the single motor gearbox and new electronics no go issue i did come up with one theory to get around it possibly.I have a DX6i transmitter which i believe you can bind to two receivers simultaneously,so i had the bright idea of a receiver to run the gearbox via an ESC on channels 1 and 2 and a Clark TK40 also bound and running the other systems using the remaining channels,is this viable or should i lay off the prescription drugs? I won this Gepard for only 1100kr ( £100 or $116) so i don't want to be throwing lots and lots of money at it,these things can soon turn into money pits!
Last edited by StevieG 32; 06-12-2019 at 12:22 PM.
#8
Yes, your wrong.
Thanks for all the replies chaps,you have all certainly given me food for thought,i will post some photos soon,as a newbie i have to make ten posts before i can add attachments, Regarding the single motor gearbox and new electronics no go issue i did come up with one theory to get around it possibly.I have a DX6i transmitter which i believe you can bind to two receivers simultaneously,so i had the bright idea of a receiver to run the gearbox via an ESC on channels 1 and 2 and a Clark TK40 also bound and running the other systems using the remaining channels,is this viable or should i lay off the prescription drugs? I won this Gepard for only 1100kr ( £100 or $116) so i don't want to be throwing lots and lots of money at it,these things can soon turn into money pits!
#9
If you take the advice of the skilled Tamiya Builders who have attempted to help you here and get rid of the current gearbox you won't need an extra ESC and will be able to run everything off the tk40. I'm not sure exactly what gearboxes fit a Tamiya tank, but if you can use the standard black steel ball-bearing gearboxes those are only about $60 for a pair.
#10
If you take the advice of the skilled Tamiya Builders who have attempted to help you here and get rid of the current gearbox you won't need an extra ESC and will be able to run everything off the tk40. I'm not sure exactly what gearboxes fit a Tamiya tank, but if you can use the standard black steel ball-bearing gearboxes those are only about $60 for a pair.
#11
If you take the advice of the skilled Tamiya Builders who have attempted to help you here and get rid of the current gearbox you won't need an extra ESC and will be able to run everything off the tk40. I'm not sure exactly what gearboxes fit a Tamiya tank, but if you can use the standard black steel ball-bearing gearboxes those are only about $60 for a pair.
#12
#13
I found them at AAF for $121 each so going with Bob's unit which is much stronger is a better deal and a great foundation for the future. It is worth it alone to not have to mess with the stock nightmare. I sold my Gepard on, but I still have a full function modernized Leopard 1 and I used Tamiya Panther gearboxes just because I had some in my spares box. I have found a pair on the bay for around $150 and less but you have to be patient on deals to come along. And yes the Gepard is a money pit, hence why I sold mine. If you are not committed to doing it right, you will just end up being frustrated and selling it anyway.
Last edited by Cruiser133; 06-14-2019 at 05:47 AM.
#14
Gearboxes
I found them at AAF for $121 each so going with Bob's unit which is much stronger is a better deal and a great foundation for the future. It is worth it alone to not have to mess with the stock nightmare. I sold my Gepard on, but I still have a full function modernized Leopard 1 and I used Tamiya Panther gearboxes just because I had some in my spares box. I have found a pair on the bay for around $150 and less but you have to be patient on deals to come along. And yes the Gepard is a money pit, hence why I sold mine. If you are not committed to doing it right, you will just end up being frustrated and selling it anyway.
None of you will like hearing this, but other than a bleeping Tamiya Sherman, none of my builds have been money pits, why? First I do not market to the boys here. Why? You all do what I do, and many build way better, LOL.
I sell to model collectors and a few IR battle day enthusiasts. After a decade plus of having fun building the Tamiya kits to various standards, from stock to lengthy, pricey, collaboration customs, I was done and have mostly moved on.
As to the first Tamiya Gepard Custom Daryl Turner Designed Model, built by me for me, I did sell it on after a persistent collector showed up at my home and put a lot of cash on my wife’s table. She took the cash and I helped the guy carry the model to his car.
My design brief: Build the kit well, define your target market (what they like) and no Tamiya built kit, done to the well documented, published Tamiya modeling standards will end up a money pit, except for that bleeping Tamiya Sherman, LOL.
The down side of the Gepard for me was that it was not fun to play with, no play fun for me means little interest.
The second Gepard I worked on was as a favor for another model collector and my fee was very little ‘cause I did very little.
John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 06-14-2019 at 07:00 AM.
#15
Hello Gents,
I'm currently building a Gepard from a vintage RC Kit and have quite a number of the upgrade components listed above in the mail.
While I wait for these I'm looking for some additional information on possible upgrades for the metal roadwheel bushings as I understand they wear out very quickly.
Has anyone changed these to ball bearings? If yes, how did you do that?
@Pcomm1.v2 I also see in the picture above that your tank has metal covers over the tracks. I think this might be a good upgrade for my tank as well to keep the dirt out of the interior.
Would you have the dimensions of the metal strips and could you share them?
Thanks a lot !
I'm currently building a Gepard from a vintage RC Kit and have quite a number of the upgrade components listed above in the mail.
While I wait for these I'm looking for some additional information on possible upgrades for the metal roadwheel bushings as I understand they wear out very quickly.
Has anyone changed these to ball bearings? If yes, how did you do that?
@Pcomm1.v2 I also see in the picture above that your tank has metal covers over the tracks. I think this might be a good upgrade for my tank as well to keep the dirt out of the interior.
Would you have the dimensions of the metal strips and could you share them?
Thanks a lot !
#16
Hello Gents,
I'm currently building a Gepard from a vintage RC Kit and have quite a number of the upgrade components listed above in the mail.
While I wait for these I'm looking for some additional information on possible upgrades for the metal roadwheel bushings as I understand they wear out very quickly.
Has anyone changed these to ball bearings? If yes, how did you do that?
@Pcomm1.v2 I also see in the picture above that your tank has metal covers over the tracks. I think this might be a good upgrade for my tank as well to keep the dirt out of the interior.
Would you have the dimensions of the metal strips and could you share them?
Thanks a lot !
I'm currently building a Gepard from a vintage RC Kit and have quite a number of the upgrade components listed above in the mail.
While I wait for these I'm looking for some additional information on possible upgrades for the metal roadwheel bushings as I understand they wear out very quickly.
Has anyone changed these to ball bearings? If yes, how did you do that?
@Pcomm1.v2 I also see in the picture above that your tank has metal covers over the tracks. I think this might be a good upgrade for my tank as well to keep the dirt out of the interior.
Would you have the dimensions of the metal strips and could you share them?
Thanks a lot !
https://www.rctank.de/Leopard-1-Road...HQ-kit-in-1-16
I don't remember what size bearings I did mine 4 years ago but if you search other threads on this forum for the Leopard 1A4 you will find the bearing size you need and what size to drill them out for that's how I remember finding the size for mine now I did buy there suspension arms it was easier for me then cutting and drilling the original arms to fit the new bolt for the wheel .
Thanks
Jimmy
Last edited by bowlman; 07-14-2021 at 07:58 PM.
#17
I Found it now I remember but I did mine with a flange bearing as I used the original wheel .
Here is the size 32x ball-bearing 8/5/2,5 mm this is none flange.
You could do none flange for rear bearing and flanged for the front so 16 none flange and 16 flanged this counts for the idler also .
I did switch the idler assy to a Hentech system .
Thanks
Jimmy
Here is the size 32x ball-bearing 8/5/2,5 mm this is none flange.
You could do none flange for rear bearing and flanged for the front so 16 none flange and 16 flanged this counts for the idler also .
I did switch the idler assy to a Hentech system .
Thanks
Jimmy
Last edited by bowlman; 07-14-2021 at 07:48 PM.
The following users liked this post:
IdefixRC (07-15-2021)
#18
Hello Gents,
@Pcomm1.v2 I also see in the picture above that your tank has metal covers over the tracks. I think this might be a good upgrade for my tank as well to keep the dirt out of the interior.
Would you have the dimensions of the metal strips and could you share them?
Thanks a lot !
@Pcomm1.v2 I also see in the picture above that your tank has metal covers over the tracks. I think this might be a good upgrade for my tank as well to keep the dirt out of the interior.
Would you have the dimensions of the metal strips and could you share them?
Thanks a lot !
The following users liked this post:
IdefixRC (07-15-2021)
#19
My art supply shop only had 1 inch wide brass strips so made do with these instead.. Worked out well I think (some bling, too :-) lol).
I Found it now I remember but I did mine with a flange bearing as I used the original wheel .
Here is the size 32x ball-bearing 8/5/2,5 mm this is none flange.
You could do none flange for rear bearing and flanged for the front so 16 none flange and 16 flanged this counts for the idler also .
I did switch the idler assy to a Hentech system .
Thanks
Jimmy
Here is the size 32x ball-bearing 8/5/2,5 mm this is none flange.
You could do none flange for rear bearing and flanged for the front so 16 none flange and 16 flanged this counts for the idler also .
I did switch the idler assy to a Hentech system .
Thanks
Jimmy
The following users liked this post:
bowlman (07-16-2021)
The following users liked this post:
bowlman (07-16-2021)
#22
Very nicely done ,
Thanks
Jimmy
Thanks
Jimmy
#24
Nice build!!!