PanzerCmdr

I couldn’t resist getting a HL T-90 after watching the online videos. A really nice tank that looks good to me, with all the additional neat accessories to customize it.

Of course, I wasn’t too surprised to end up with a problem. After about 15 minutes of mild operations, the turret stopped rotating. I took the top off the chassis and looked at the turret turning module, putting a multimeter on the motor power connectors. The motor was getting power commands but it was dead. Fortunately, it’s easy to pop the motor out of the module and after light lubing with some Labelle oil and manipulating the motor axle some with my fingers, the motor began to run. I let it run a bit to break it in some and then disassembled the module to get the gears out, again, easy to do. Man, the inside and the gears were just covered in grease, which I’m sure didn’t help matters any. I cleaned everything up with some isopropyl alcohol and then applied a small amount of Labelle grease to the gears and put everything back together.

Before buttoning up the top to the chassis, I played with the turret ops some more. The turning module would still intermittently stop on occasion. I noticed the module motor was rotating in it’s mount some upon motor start up. Apparently, just enough to jam up it’s worm gear with the module gear. Again, another easy fix. I cleaned the outer case of the module with isopropyl and used a small strip of packing tape to hold the motor firmly within the module so it wouldn’t torque out of place upon startup. Success! No problem after more than an hour of operating.

Apparently, though, removing the tank top caused a cannon module wire to break free from it’s motor solder joint. I won’t bore everyone with how long it took to figure that one out. However, if one of your tanks modules isn’t working, take a very close look at all the wiring, connectors, and solder joints.

Really loving the T-90 6.0S, with all it’s features. The newer HL smoke unit has been working well, so far. It puts out just enough smoke to my eyes and just adds to the “coolness” factor, IMHO.

P.S. - I really like the Admiral Li-ion batteries from MotionRC in this tank. Looks like I can operate for at least an hour on just one of them. Much better than the Li-ion that comes with the tank and they’re close to the size of the original Li-ion, so an easy fit in the tank. Kudos to MotionRC for quick, trouble free service and fast shipping. Likewise, to Legend Hobby in Bryan, Texas, for getting me the T-90.

https://www.motionrc.com/collections...miya-connector

Crius

I have that same tank with the same electronics and I haven't had any problems with it, but I can tell that left gearbox is on the verge of self-destruction. I have a spare set so it's not a big deal, just a question of getting off my lazy Duff and getting the job done. Do you by any chance have anything with a 5.3 electronic set in it? I think there's a huge difference between the two, with the 6.0 having much, much better low speed control, and the option to reduce the track recoil is also just great. It's my only modern tank so I think I might need to get another one to go with it. An M60 would be cool, if someone would ever put out a kit at a reasonable price. Now I have to go research if those two tanks ever came up against each other in any of those Middle Eastern battles. See what you started? 😸

Crius

And I think I might have to try that battery, so I hope anyone watching will let me know if they see it on sale anywhere. You guys know what a cheapskate I am. 🙀🤔😜🙊🙉🙈

PanzerCmdr

Fortunately, the turret turning module is easy to disassemble and work on but, yes, if it looks to be beyond repair, it’s easy and cheap to just replace it. Replacing all the damn glob of HL applied grease to the gears with the Labelle grease, just a small amount, really seemed to smooth the operation and I’m sure it’s a lot easier on the module motor.

No, sorry, no 5.3 stuff but, yes, I really like the 6.0S. The track recoil is indeed adjustable with it and you can just go with no recoil at all, too.

I really recommend the 6.0, if one finds it at a decent price and are prepared to tinker with it if things aren’t quite right out of the box. For me, fooling around with the guts of these things is part of the fun, anyway. And just about everything looks to be reasonably easy to access for repair or replace, once the top is off. So far, no problems with the 6.0 transmitter or the MF circuit unit.

PanzerCmdr

Ha! Sounds like me. A general net and Ebay search didn’t come up with anything for the Admiral Li-ion other than MotionRC but I didn’t do a deep drill search. It does work as advertised and is perfect for the T-90, though.

tankme

I have the T-72 with 6.0. It is basically the T-90 with a different turret and upper deck. The T-72 is a great tank also. The only weakness I see with the two tanks (and the tanks based on the T-72 like the ZTZ series) is that the idler area is prone to breakage. You might want an idler brace from Henntec or the one from RC Tank Legion. I have both types of braces in two custom applications. The Henntec is being installed on my Hooben ZTZ-99A without any modifications and a slightly modified RC Tank Legion version is installed on my HL ZTZ-99. Each has it's pros and cons.

The Henntec is relies on set screws for everything and the bearings that came with it didn't fit my idlers so I've ordered different bearings to fit. The idler shafts are 4mm in diameter. Here it is installed on my Hooben ZTZ-99A below.





The RC Tank Legion version seems a little beefier and it had the right size shaft for the bearings installed in the metal T-72 idlers. It has two mounting screws, but no nuts for the second set of screws so I added my own. The idler shafts are 5mm in diameter. You can see that one installed on the HL ZTZ-99 (which is actually a Type 98).
https://www.rctanklegion.com/product...-and-brace-kit

PanzerCmdr

Thanks for the info! The Legion one says “Will take some skill to install, and cutting and drilling is required.

(no instructions given)”

Any recommendations/ specifics for installing it in the tank?

tankme

It's not hard and really doesn't need any instructions, but you can see the install of it in my ZTZ-99 thread: Heng Long ZTZ-99

It does require cutting and drilling. I find an Xacto razor saw is the best tool for the job to cut off the old idler mounts as it has the most control. You won't have to shorten the cross bar like I did. It wasn't meant for a ZTZ, but I bent it to my will and made it work...

PanzerCmdr

Ah! Yes, I have the typical hobbyist tools, Dremel, multitude of drill bits, and several razor saws, including Xacto. I just wanted to minimize my chances of goofing up a new tank with a mod. Thanks again!

PanzerCmdr

I went ahead with an order for the RCTankLegion setup. Looks like a good thing to do, especially for operating with all the metal stuff on the T90 Pro. Also picked up a few other items from Legion. Nice site, with lots of tank goodies.

Thanks again!

tankme

Now all you need to do is bring that T-90 out to Texas Armor is an RC tank club. ? Texas Armor on Apr 18th around 10AM. Not sure why they haven't updated the calendar on the website with the 2021 battle days yet. The days are listed on their Facebook page though. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1801712786717633/events

PanzerCmdr

Heh, heh, heh... you know I’ve always had an interest, what with the RC B-17 events out there. If I can’t make it this month, I’ll definitely put it on my schedule for May.

tankme

I'm sure I'll be there on the 18th, but I can't make it in May due to my on call schedule.