Hi,
I'm Fairly new to this forum and just started to get into tank R/Cs.
My wife had bought me a M113A2 and have decied to modify it. I would like to know where I can buy parts to modify it. It does not have to be actual parts for it but parts that I can easily modify to work on the 113. I plan on turning the 113 into a M1059 Smoke track Generator.
One of the things I would like to get is a smoke generator like they use on the smoking tanks that I have seen. Where can I purchase one of these? My main concern is that it won't generate as much smoke as I would like, it doesn't have to produce as much as the real thing but more than just a puff of smoke, and if that's the case is there any way that I can build my own?
The other thing I want to change it the antenna. The ones I want to change to are the ones that are on the Mauri & Hen Long 1/24 M1A2 Tanks. They are just about the right scale for a real 113 and can be tied down to give a realistic look I can probably get replacements from the manufacture.
The Hardiest thing to modify would be to add suspension to the road wheels. I've read some post about these and it seems like there is a lot of calculations I have to do to figure out the set up and movement and mounting of the suspension. Is there readily available suspensions? I'm assuming that I will have to go with a customized suspension. I have already started modifing the 113 by removing the some the accesory's that was glued to the top and sides of the 113, moved the atenna from the rear to the front by the drivers hatch and unglued all the hatches so they can open and drilled holes in parts that was supposed to have holes.
If you have any info that can help or links it would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks,
Robert


[img]I:\m1059 front[/img] [img]I:\smoke front2[/img] [img]I:\rc\100_3011[/img] [img]I:\100_3021[/img]

See the link below, I want to do something similar except with out the gas engine. (Maybe one day, with a nitro engine or something)
[link]http://www.rctransmission.com/Bradley.htm[/link]

i dont really have any help for you but i've seen the one you have before. i just want to know whether you like it or not. have you had any problems with it? do the tracks come of easily?

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Well, I don't want to seem negative, but the reality is that you have quite a challenge ahead of you with your modifications. []

First, the smoke generator. The little smoke machine that comes with the Hen Long tanks barely emits a trickle of smoke in comparison to what you would want. Since it is made to simulate the exhaust from an engine, it is really "smoke to scale" for the tank, and it is appropriate only in that application. You want billowing smoke, so you may have to create a metal chamber where you can ignite smoke bomb fireworks inside the track.

I think that the antennae would be easy enough, since it is just a section of wire that you can cut to length and make a loop for the mounting screw.

The main concern is that you intend this to be a working, moving RC M1059, but you are starting with what I consider to be an inferior RC track. I also have the 113 from Wal-Mart and I think that it is junk compared to even a basic Hen Long tank. I don't know how you could manufacture a good suspension, but the tracks themselves will still be an additional headache, since they are rubber and come off easily. Plus, it is 1:18 scale whereas most tanks seem to be 1:16 or 1:24, so other tracks probably will not work. The 113 track is also underpowered due to the smaller motors. [&o]

Please understand that I'm not trying to discourage you, but I have six RC tanks and the 113 track, so I have a pretty good idea of its quality issues. The best advice that I can give is to start with another subject; one with a pre-existing suspension and better tracks.

I really wish that I could be more help, but here is a picture of the suspension (spring-loaded pivot arm with groove for wheel axle), the smoke machine, the 113 motors compared to Hen Long, and the plastic tracks of a basic Hen Long Tiger 1:

Good Luck! [sm=thumbup.gif]

kuhndog599

The only thing I can really say that is good about this 113 is that the detail is fairly decent but quality wise, as far as how it's put together and operates, its really bad. There are gaps in the back & in the front above the tracks (see pics) where the upper hull touches the lower hull. It doesn't look bad in the pictures but when you're actually looking at it, it is very noticeable.
I haven't had problems with the tracks coming off but is does slip when you have it do a pivot steer (super spin, where tracks go in opposite directions). I don't have a picture of it but on the section of track where they put it together is missing the guide tooths and because of that the guide tooth in that section hits the road wheels and that is whats causing it to momentarily slip. The other issue I have with this is that the controller is not the best. All the functions works fine except when I put in reverse to back up straight and and the right track would stop working causing the 113 to turn and then it would start again. I Haven't had time to check on this yet with all the things I have been doing.
I really wouldn't recommend this 113 if you are a serious modeler or R/Cer especially if you are into details. If you where a kid or something and not into modeling it should'nt matter much.
Before I got this 113 I had read about it in another post on this forum, so I knew that this was not the best R/C vehicle to get and had already decided to modify it.

I already knew that this was going to be a challenging project especially with scale issues. A few years back I had modified an old tamiya M113 (I think) 1/35 scale model into a M1059 which was pretty easy I really did not have alot to modify on it.

I do agree with you that this 113 is a piece of junk, for the price you would think that it would of been made alot better.
I haven't seen any other 113's as an R/C or as a model this large have you? I've seen a Bradley on ebay that is 1/6 scale and a perfect candidate to turn in to an R/C, which has actually already been done. The link is in my original post.

This is the Bradley on ebay, I think he is asking way to much. Since I've been watching it this has been re-listed once and had dropped the price, may be he will drop the price some more. If he does I think I will get and try to convert it to R/C.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

So, how hard do you think it would scratch build a 113 and modify existing suspension and tank parts for use on it? If I scratch build one I would probably try to make it a 1/6th scale and use aluminum or something for the body and fully detailed to like look exactly like the ones I have operated before. I really have not seen any other models or R/C that is 1/18th scale just the normal 1/6, 1/16 and the 1/24 in R/C tanks and the normal static models that are around the 1/35. I thought I had seen a site where Someone scratch built a 113 from ply wood but for the life of I was not able to find the site again.

How about the motor could I put a bigger one on it and use the same gears or do I need to change the gears? I'd be afraid that if I changed motors the plastic gears would strip because the motor was to big for it.

The antenna I would like to mount it on the upper hull like the real antenna. You know it hadn't occurred to me to make my own antenna. Does it matter what kind of wire I use and what the length of the wire is? the main thing I wanted the for now was the correct location of the antenna.

That is a good idea about the smoke bomb, but how hot would it get? I wouldn't want to melt the plastic on the first try. Would some sort of heat shield prevent that? Are there deferent types of smoke machines and how does it actually work? If I knew how it actually works I could probably come up with something to work the way I would like to. Come to think of it the real M1's had smoke screen capabilities also and not just the smoke grenade launchers that is mounted on the turret. The system actually puts fuel on a hot manifold, that is similar to the the M1059, and as it burns the system blows the smoke out creating the smoke screen it's not something that they actually use alot of because the system uses the same fuel that the engine uses, they have a bad enough gas mileage they don't really want to short them selves on fuel using the system. I know that system was on the M1 but I'm not sure if it is on the A1's or A2's.

Sorry for going off track there but it would be cool to do those tank battles and then all of a sudden you're laying smoke screen from your M1.

well this went alot longer than I thought.
Thanks for the input.

Ok-
I bought one of these from Wal-Mart. The electronics are basically JUNK- Soooo- Modification time !!
1. The motors and gearbox are ok.
2. Remove everything eccept the motors and gearbox.
3.I only use this at home, so I used some 72mhz aircraft radio equipment.(Shhhhhh !!)
4. Parts
1.GWS 6 channel receiver/ Futaba 6 ch transmitter
2. TWO GWS 5 amp electronic speed controls- one for each track.
3. TWO 7.2vdc 2000 mah Nimh battery packs- on for each track .
4. ONE GWS V-tail mixer for proportinal steering(it mixes the speed controls to work on one stick)
5. TWO micro servos and two micro switches for reversing the battery polarity for reverse.
6. One on/off switch
7. Sepatate battery pack for the receiver- cut the RED wire on the ESc's to disable the BEC.
8. I opened the top rear hatch for access to my on/off switch, and opened the large rear ramp for access to the batterise for
charging.
It works perfectly. It will move so slowly you can barely perceive motion, but will really hauls a-- under full throttle!!
Steering is via the v-tail mixer and works great- I tried using two separate throttles but it was impossible to control, so the
mixer works great. With the big batterise it really has has power. It will climb a 60 degree incline with no problem. Now, if I could
only get rid of the motor/gearbox sound !!!
This set up will work for any vehicle, but be careful of the size (amperage)of electronic speed controls. Actually, a better solution is
using rc car speed controls with built in reverse, thus eliminating the micro swtiches- but it was what I had on hand.
I also removed the battery box (it un-screws) to give me LOTS of space.

ELGEE-- Can you post some photos of your setup? I plan to convert a larger tank to operate the same way using larger motors but all I have in the higher amp rating esc's are forward only. Like to see video of your 113 too. sounds like you've done a great job of converting it.

Mike

Hi Mike,
Sorry,I don't have the capability to provide pictures.
Larry G.

ELGEE

Sounds like you did alot to your 113. How long did it take you to modify your 113, and how much did it cost you?
I want to do alot of modifcation on mine. I'm also changing it from an M113A2 to an A1 the model I used to operate.

Hello Delajust,
It took me about 4 hours to complete as I changed the steering to the mixer after I found out I could not control it via two separate throttles. Cost- Hard to tell as I used things I already had on hand- probably about $150.00 if you bought everything new, however,one radio transmitter can be used for several vehicles. Just look on E-Bay for the GWS stuff- receiver,servos,and v-tail mixer.
You'll also need two 7.2v nimh batteries, at least 1700 to 2200 MAH- I get mine from 'Cheapbatterypacks.com' They are fast and always have sales. You will also have to do a lot of soldering to make new connectors. And a battery charger-I'm using an MRC 959- they are older, but cheap on E-bay- fully automatic charging- about 5-10 minutes per pack. I hate to make this sound so casual. but I've been doing RC for about 30 years so it comes as second nature.
So, here is the verbal hook-up-
1.1 ea 6 channel receiver-- wired as follows
2.1 channel for the receiver battery pack
3.2 channels(1 for each ESC)
4.2 channels to control each micro switch via two small servos (for reversing the motor leads to give you reverse)
5.1 V-tail mixer to give steering off of one stick- the ESC's plug into this, and it plugs into the receiver.
6. An on/off switch- for the receiver- in line no the positive (+) lead.
7. 2 ea battery packs-one for each ESC-
You will be using 5 of the 6 channels.
1.Throttle
2. 2 ESC's
3. 2 servos for reversing

_RCVR_ch___
l 1 l Reciever batt
l 2 l ESC____________l------------- V-tail mixer= throttle/left/right
l 3 l ESC l
l 4 l SERVO ------------l ------------ 1 ea to micro switch for reversing battery leads to motors.
l 5 l SERVO l
l l
l l
l_________ l

About the'v-tail mixer'-- Normally, each ESC controlled each motor to eack track- too hard to control !!! This device 'mixes' the two channels to work off one control stick- it's actually for aircraft to mix control surfaces- basically an interface device- works great !!!
So, my left stick is the throttle, and the right stick is the steering- all proportional.
Hope this helps,
Larry G.