Stang951

Wolf would it be better to make the mud flap hine on the rear out of the tin can, aluminum or the pie plate. I found a perfect little piece of aluminum to use (already has one bend), but aluminum gets a little brittle to bend sometimes.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Stang951:

What kind are you using? As I mentioned, the soda-can stuff is not up to repeat bends, and can crack at the bends. Aluminum pie plates (the Alcan ones that usually come under store-bought pies) are better, as the aluminum isn't as brittle.

If you don't want it to bend, I'd say go up to the food-can material, but to get it to solder you need to remove the galvanizing from the interior, and you may want to use a small propane or butane torch.

And if you're going to be making a lot of folded stuff, you may want to invest in a Hold & Fold or Etch-Mate PE tool. I've got one but its awaiting a buyer as the 4" unit I have is a bit small, and I want to move up to an 8" unit.

And if you're going to be ordering from Mato, ask Murphy if he has any mudflaps laying about. He might toss some into the packet for you from one of the basket-case tanks he parts out.

WhiteWolf

Stang951

The piece of aluminum I have is actually a servo mount that someone made. It's is about the same thickness as a tin can (maybe a little thicker). I can do the bending on it, just gonna take some time. I cau use small nails and rods to bend it around...just time consuming and with the small bends in aluminum the thicker aluminum get a littel brittle and breaks. I ran into that problem many times fabbing parts for my Mustang (1:1).



I have the mudflaps. The little flap bracket that was mounted to the left rear of the tank broke off(Backed into something).

Shagnifico

LOL. I had heard that HL tanks were made out of low grade plastics, but I had no idea!

Stang951

Well I will say that I was fairly close to the tank and using a UHC1911 with .20g bb's. I was not expecting the plastic to shatter like that though.!!I didn't notice it at first, btu boy was I pissed when I did notice it.

Stang951

I finally got my turret and airsoft mech this afternoon. Now I am ready to do the work on the barrel. I have the measurements for the piece that needs to be replaced, just have to find something to use. Someone suggested using part of a pen tube, but I can't find any the correct diameter. I may have to make a trip to the LHS and sort through thier tubing (they have both brass and aluminum. I am also being held up by the XF60 paint. My LHS hasn't gotten any in, I guess I'm going to have to make an order from Tower Hobbies. Are there any other colors that I should order while I'm at it? I have red brown and the green for the camo, flat aluminum and gunmetal. I plan on using the gunmetal mixed with some light brown for the spare tracks, gun metal for the cables and machine gun, and a mix of red brwon and yellow for the handles and box mounted on the front. I have plenty of black,red and white Creatix paints that I was going to mix with the Tamiya flat base for lettering and weathering.

I have one more problem that I need help with as well. I need to fill in the damage above the periscope. Originally I was going to use some regular epoxy to fill in that hole (and the airsoft LED hole). The problem is that the epoxy that I have gets really hot. I am afraid that it will melt the good plastic. Can someone recommend an epoxy to use with the HL plastic?

Couldn't sleep when I got home from work this morning so I made some new gear covers out of the pie pan bottom like Wolf suggested. That stuff is supereasy to work with. Just so happened that I had a pan left from BBQing Sunday night. Cleaned it out good and chopped away. Cuts real easy with a pair of lexan scissors. I'll post pics when I can. I was going to use that for the hinges on one of the rear grates, but it is too soft and will get damaged easily. I think that I will either use an aluminum can (might have the same problem), plate brass (have some left from a past project), or the tin can material. Now I just need to find out if the first set of grates on the tigers were hinged or just bolted on. I have seen pics of the two rear covers hinged, and the engine cover hinged, but the muffler tubes that lay on top of the hull block them, making them too difficult to open for moving the swtiches.

Rumnhammer

Stang, I have the fix for your hole, best bet is to cut it out square and patch it with some sheet styrene, The same type of stuff I've been using to modify my panther. I've found that the styrene welding cement called Tenax 7R works GREAT!!! it bonds fast and litterally does weld the plastic together. For a good plastic repair epoxy, you can use what I've been using for my Zimmermit. Go to Home Depot, in the Glue section you will find some stuff called QuickPlastic. It is a preformed stick of two part epoxy, all you need to do is cut off a length of it and kneed it until it is a uniform light blue color, the you have like 20 minutes to form it the way you want, you can thin it a bit and keep it soft longer buy using a little alcohol, also use some on your fingers to keep it from sticking to them. This stuff is great too, works better then Milliput and is only $3 a stick, after it dries it is just hard plastic, and it cures without heat.
Chris Rummel

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Stang:

Ok, on the mudflaps - if the clip on the tank side broke, but the 'hinge-pin' on the flap is intact, here is a way:

cut the remains of the hull-side hinge clip off flush with the hull. Get a very fine drill bit (or even a fine piece of piano wire or angle-cut straight-pin) and drill out some holes on the frame around hinge clip. You'll know where to place the holes, as you want to use some fine wire to make C shapes, cup the mudflap hinge pin in the C, then insert the wire into the holes. Bend over and put a dab of CA on the bent-over ends. The wire acts like a clamp. You need a diagram, ask, and I'll doodle one up.

The front hull damage - Yes, a roughly cut to shape piece of styrene and some Tenax is one way. If you want more quantity, go for a no-name brand like the Canadian MBS stuff. just as good at 1/3 the price (I use the MBS w/ a Touch & Flow or paintbrush) Another way is pit a piece tape over the front, dust the hole from the inside with baking soda, and then a few drops of CA. Alternate this until the hole is filled. Its as hard or harder than epoxy, but WATCH THE FUMES. Space it out, so it does not heat too much. This is a common fast-fix method when ya don't have any epoxy. When done, remove the outside-tape.

Gonna have to look for that plastic stuff, sounds like one of the hobby-items that has come into the hardware industry.

WhiteWolf
- off to search for more Leo spares to finish his ~second~ one.

Stang951

Wolf I'm not following on the mudflaps. Could you do that diagram for me. Kinda hard to think straight, been up since 4pm Thursday afternoon. Had work, staff meeting and then an appendectamy for the wife (spelling might be off). Just came home this morning to get the kids ready for school and get away from the hospital. Getting ready to go back now.
It sounds like I am eliminating the brackets and replacing them with wire, going through the hull. If that is correct, will that be secure enough to hold the flaps in place if I back into something?

I can get epoxy, I just have to watch which ones I use. I order this stuff from Tower since I was making a paint order anyway. My LHS still doesnt have any XF60 in stock and I am tired of waiting. Now I have to wait some more. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXASY7
I may venture over the Home Depot and check out that plastic stuff as well. Two solutions are always better than one. I can try one out on each mantlet to see how they work.


One more thing...and I know this has been gone over forever....How should I cut the barrel to extend it? Do I just use a thin saw blade or dremel tool (leary of the dremel ot cutting even). That will be my next project after I get the wife home and in bed.

Stern

Hallo Stang,

best wishes to your wife !!!

I took just a dremel to cut the KWK ...

Greetings,

Stern

Stang951

Which cutting tool did you use. I am currently using the fiber re-enforced cut of wheels and the cut a pretty thick section out.

Thanks Stern. She was doing fine when I left the hospital at 530 this morning. Heading back now to check on her.

Stern

I have used a very thinn metall saw blade in my Dremel ...

But the biggest problem I had, was to make the inner duct - I mean putting it in perfect connection to the mechanism of the airsoft ...


Greetings,

Stern

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Stang:

Yea, I'll doodle up a diagram, or even use a loose mudflap I've got laying about and a quick shot to illustrate how to do it. Yea, you're replacing the flap hinge with the wire loops... and if the flap is strong enough, the wire will pop loose and drop the flap before you'll crack the flap.

As for cutting the barrel, many of the guys suggested using a small pipe-cutter, a buck or two in a dollar store, or $5 in a decent hardware store. If you have a mitre box for a small saw, use that if you don't want to get the pipe-cutter. I bought a cutter, and I've used it so much the blade won't cut any more. And its rediculous, the whole cutter is $5, the blades alone are $10 a pop!

Hope your wife gets over whatever she's inside for, I hate being inside myself (been there too many times for my gut) and I'll get that diagram and image or three tonight.

WhiteWolf

Image link in your PM box Stang, and best wishes for your wife.

tomzag

My Feedback: (-1)

WW, diagram will be helpful, can you show the actual tank you did? that will be more helpful if we can see how it can be done.

Stang951

Everyone the wife is home now. (Just got in). She had to have her appendix removed. Dr. said that if she had waited any longerit would have ruptured, possibly last night in the middle of the night.

tomzag

My Feedback: (-1)

best wishes to your wife!

Stern

Here are some good pictures ...

http://www.alanhamby.com/gallery.html


Greetings

Stang951

Got the barrel almost completed over the weekend. I cut it using a tubing cutter (sounded like it was going to crack the plastic for a while) but it turned out fine. I used 9/16 brass tubing cut to 45mm from where it exited the mantlet tube, to the barrel taper (I'll post pics when I can). I epoxied it using a similar stuff that Rumnhammer suggested. Found it at Lowe's as Marine Repair Epoxy. Looks exaclty as he descirbed (thanks for the tip). I also used that to fix the hole in above the drivers opening and the airsoft LED hole (just couldn't wait for the Tower order to get here).

I am having a problem getting the brass tubing to adhere to the end of the barrel with the muzzle break though. I tried he epxoy and CA glue. Neither worked. I ordered a 510mm long, 6.04mm ID airsoft barrel from Ebay and may just wait until that comes in and epoxy the two parts of the barrel and the airsoft barrel together. IF anyone has a better suggestion please let me know.

I got the Tower order tonight before coming to work so I may start painting the lower hull and camoflage later today, and start reassembling.

While everything is apart I am also thining of beefing up the suspension so that the arms do not flex outward from the chasis. I was thinking of using brass tubing to go through the suspension arm where the axles go now, cutting ****s in some angle aluminum identical to the chasis openings, and the placing an axle through it to the road wheels. (hope that makes sense, If I can I will draw some diagrams and post them.) Does that sound like it would work? I plan to do something similar to what Stern did to his idler wheels in the rear to give them better support as well.

Stang951

I got off early, and wouldn't ya know the first thing I ran to was my tank to see if my design idea would work.....WEll it won't. The way the suspension arms are designed to follow the tank hull they go to the lower hull floor. With my idea the tank would lose enough suspension travel that it would sit too low and cause more problems with ground clearance. Back to the drawing board.

If I find another solution I'll post it here.
Here are some pics of my progress:
This is the hole repaired. I also tried some red brown paint on the supply box to see if I liked to color on the box.



Here is the extended barrel. I am having the trouble adhering the brass to the camo painted part of the barrel

I painted the inside of the hatches flat aluminum. Probably not the correct color, but what the hell.

Stern

Hallo,

fantastic pictures !

You have repaired the "shot-hole" really good !

Will you open the driver "window" more ?

Greetings,

Stern

Stang951

Do you think it needs to be opened more than that? I was going to leave it that height. I thought it was close to where it should be.
Got the tracks in today (Wife had to pick up from the post office. From what I heard about the Stella-Model tracks I believe that they may be the same ones. They are the open linked style. They have Torro stamped on the outter edge of the inner tracks. They did come with the idlers, sprockets, 2 spare links, 2 brass bushings (no idea where they go), screws and lock washers for the driveshafts, axle pins, and spare link pins.
Here are the picks:










I ordered the dark silvers instead of the black (seemed like it would be a more natural color. All in all compared to the price of the Stella Models I think these are a better deal. For the price they come with the extra links, hardware and the sprockets and idlers. The only thing that I don't like (as with most asian companies) they don't have any intstructions, so now I have to figure out what the brass bushings are for.
I am about to start cleaning and painting the lower hull. How am I supposed to paint the idler and sprockets. I know that I cannot just paint them, that they have to be primed. Can I just use any type of primer or do I have to use Tamiya Primer?

Rumnhammer

Stang, I would just prime them with plain old cheap autobody primer, you should definatly prime them so the paint will stick to them.
pretty nice what did it run you?
Chris Rummel

Stang951

The set from that Mato web site is 99.00, and they claim free shipping for the track set so not that bad. I found that buying them from Mato Ebay is a little cheaper (but not much) 69.99 with 20.00 shipping. I am going to start a new thread for them so that it will be easier to find for everyone. AS soon as the new German site I will post there as well.

Stang951

Next challenge (or the one for tonight):

I decided I am going to add the charging switch and jack after all. After having to remove the battery and replace it 3 times this evening I decided it would be worth the extra effort in the long run. Here is the problem. I charge my battery at up to 5amps. The switches that come with the receiver charging jacks are only rated to AT MOST 1.5 amps. Could I use an autmotive type switch or switch from Radio Shack that is rated at or above 5 amps. Most of the ones that I have found are rated at 6 amps or above, but list them as 125VAC switches. I am lost here and am turning nothing up with my google searches.


Stern if you could chime in here and let me know what you used it would be greatly appreciated...that is unless I can find your thread and jack you there.

Stang951

Had to put the tracks on tonight after the permablue job last night and priming the idlers and sprokets. Tested it outside in the grass. With the motors that come with the HL I am not really impressed. They seem to go slower, but put a larger burden on the speed controlller. I may have to figure out a way to replace the speed control board with something else or talk to some circuit gurus to see if the board can't be souped up to perform better and cooler. I never checked the board before, but it does feel warm now.

Tom before you say it I only have the cost of the parts that I broke and the track set into the tank, as thetank itself was a gift, so about 130.00 total. NOWHERE near the price of a Tamiya Tiger.


Now I have an added problem though. When I was mocking the tank up for the photo shoot, I noticed that I pulled a couple of wires off motors and am not sure where they go. Stern i am going to email you to see if you can help if yours is still apart.

I can't paint anything right now either. The compressor started making a funny noise and isn't putting out any pressure. It's a brand New campbell from Harbor Freight, so now I have to find the receipt for it so I can have it swapped out.

Check out the pics of the treads if you haven't already here [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3886750/tm.htm]Mato tank track set[/link]