Building the Tamiya Pershing
#1
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From: Oslo, NORWAY
I got the 1/16 Tamiya Pershing almost completely assempled.
But there are one problem (I got a friend with the same problem), and that is that there are so litte space and so much cables that the turret has trouble turning.
Does anybody has any good tips on how to lay out the cables in the best way.
I also got the battle system and would like to know if there is a smart way to attach the battle system. By that I mean smark like on the Tiger where it is hidden. On the Pershing the cables is outside the tank. Not so nice.
But there are one problem (I got a friend with the same problem), and that is that there are so litte space and so much cables that the turret has trouble turning.
Does anybody has any good tips on how to lay out the cables in the best way.
I also got the battle system and would like to know if there is a smart way to attach the battle system. By that I mean smark like on the Tiger where it is hidden. On the Pershing the cables is outside the tank. Not so nice.
#3
Here is a link to another thread about the slipping turret
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4461842/tm.htm
As far a the Battle System emitter, the members of our club have been drilling out the gunners sight to mimic the size and depth found on the Tiger. You then enlarge the hole on the right side of the barrel and glue the emitter in place. Some actually like the emitter on the barrel, feeling that placing it to one side of the gun might create a blind spot when shooting. With the Sherman mantel, a small brass tube was used to proper depth.
Kevin O'Connor
<S.C.A.T.>
I will try to attach a jpeg, but this system and my computer don't seem to want to get along.
/Users/kevinoconnor/Desktop/Tanks.jpg
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4461842/tm.htm
As far a the Battle System emitter, the members of our club have been drilling out the gunners sight to mimic the size and depth found on the Tiger. You then enlarge the hole on the right side of the barrel and glue the emitter in place. Some actually like the emitter on the barrel, feeling that placing it to one side of the gun might create a blind spot when shooting. With the Sherman mantel, a small brass tube was used to proper depth.
Kevin O'Connor
<S.C.A.T.>
I will try to attach a jpeg, but this system and my computer don't seem to want to get along.
/Users/kevinoconnor/Desktop/Tanks.jpg
#4
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From: jacksonville,
FL
One thing about the gunners sight. When you put the tubing on paint in black inside otherwise the emitter won't work properly.As for the room and the turret with the wiring- zippy ties. As for lowering the battle system the guy that does ours says the Pershing is the hardest to do.
#5
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I recently traded my Pershing, but before that I did several things that helped with the turret rotaion:
Speaker Box - I removed mine, took the speaker out, cut it almost in half, sealed the open side with glue and a sheet of lexan, and then reinstalled it. That gave me some space to move my battery backward and more room for the electronics up front.......and nobody sees the speaker box, anyway.
My turret would push up when the tabs lined up with the gaps on the upper hull and the whole thing would pop loose. I used aluminum tape to seal those holes, once the turret was on so it would stay on better.
I also used glue on the "slipper clutch" part of the turret rotation unit to make it power through the low resistance hang-ups inside the hull, but you might think twice about that since it will no longer allow the turret to be turned manually.
Jason
Speaker Box - I removed mine, took the speaker out, cut it almost in half, sealed the open side with glue and a sheet of lexan, and then reinstalled it. That gave me some space to move my battery backward and more room for the electronics up front.......and nobody sees the speaker box, anyway.

My turret would push up when the tabs lined up with the gaps on the upper hull and the whole thing would pop loose. I used aluminum tape to seal those holes, once the turret was on so it would stay on better.
I also used glue on the "slipper clutch" part of the turret rotation unit to make it power through the low resistance hang-ups inside the hull, but you might think twice about that since it will no longer allow the turret to be turned manually.
Jason




