Leon01

GNP I have to say you do great work Sounds like your Abrams is going to be something else 25 yard range. Thanks for posting more Photos in the Pershing thats the best looking 1/16 Pershing I have ever seen. I not sure what it is but thats just the best I have seen every detail on it is perfect.

astroboycp

Wow, nice field of carpet grass to run on.

Mr Terminator

Liking the Abrams GNP,thats one for keeping the neighborhood cats in line.Whats the physical size of the 1/9 scale towards the 1/12 like Whacky's..? The M26 is very nice indeed mate and will be one for me for the future..

wackywheelz

1/12 hull length is about 26" (32" including gun in forward position)

1/9 hull length is about 34", and should be 42" including gun in forwards position, but I think they skimped out with a whimpy short looking barrel.

GNP

Thanks Mr. Terminator, that's what I told my wife - the neighborhood cats are in for a suprise!

Your estimate is very close Wackywheelz, the hull is 35.5". The original gun was short, it is now 43" with the gun in the forward position.

Mr Terminator

They look cool,I was really impressed with Whackys and followed his progress on the thread he linked.The Abrams is my favourite tank and a bigger scale model appeals to me also.The one that Whacky modded are available for around £55 in UK.Are the 21st Centuary 1/9 scale ones still available.?? I've Googled it but they dont have it on their site so I guess its no longer produced.I'd love to get hold of one and mod one myself but the 1/12 scale model is'nt that much smaller and Whacky shows what they can be made to look like with a bit of work and a very good job he did too....[8D]

wackywheelz

I believe theyre long OOP (Out of Production), though people randomly find them in places like Walmart. Some people stockpiled them, since they were so cheap when they were readily available.

Oh, and there is a revised edition of the 1/12 Abrams out there, its light grey (instead of glossy camo) in a different box than usual. I've still got plenty to do on mine, at least the main cosmetic things are out of the way, the gearboxes are probably my biggest headache (slow, no direct replacement...)

BIGMIG

I have often wondered about the lower hull on the 1/12 heilang Abrams.?? there was a place to mount a speaker and speaker holes
along with a few other vacant spots for what apeared to be set up for sound.But have never seen any so far that was every sold with a sound function???? BIGMIG

Mr Terminator

Thats a bummer but I can always get the 1/12 scale and follow your mod,I bookmarked it for future reference.I'm still awaiting arrival of my 1/16 scale HE M1A2 and the Bulldog,should be here soon and a forum member here in the UK has offered me the HE Leopard 2 A5 for £40 and its like new so i'll probably buy the 1/12 scale and stick it to one side and wet my feet on the smaller ones first doing mods and stuff.There really is something cool and addictive about this RC Tank malarky,i've just took stock of 4 gallons of nitro fuel and not even used any yet,where as i'm normally straight out with the 1/8 scale buggy and Monster trucks....

JB_DK

I am the lucky owner of two HL Tigers one standard non S&S and one S&S with upgrades as metal gears, hatches, tow shankles and tracks....i am planning to upgrade the non S&S when the winter comes....

Sorry about my english its a bit rusty....

Leon01

This is it my favorite tank period its Heng Long even though I have other tanks by Heng Long and others this is my baby it drives perfect the control is amazing I know its ugly and not a real tank model I still love it.

Got put some decals on it 2.

BIGMIG

Yup,the HL Tiger is a great running tank.
BIGMIG

Rucdoc

Purchased a Bulldog today

and had the transformer outside my apartment not gone Boom, I would have finished repainting it too.

swathdiver

Welcome aboard! Start your own build thread and post some pictures, everyone enjoys looking at other tanks!

OwlsfanDan

OK, late addition to the thread! I've just moved house and don't have an internet connection yet, so have to go on at work during lunch break!!
I have a HL Pershing, hopefully soon to be painted. Would love to get it as good as GNP's!!
Had a couple of small problems with mine, one wire working loose and a new set of crystals fitted, but soon fixed. Love it!!

caragan1970

HI guys,

Don't want to be left out.. i own an Non-S&S HL Tiger 1 upgraded with Metal tracks & gearbox, to be upgraded with
HL S&S + EL MOD kit + Asiatam recoil unit and proportional smoker.

Also got a Pershing to be upgraded as well.

Patrick C.

madbadger

hi new Heng Long owner of a tiger tank, used for about 20mins now it will only go round in circles, drives in reverse ok and to the left. Only nearside track will work forward/backwards
offside track reverse only. Contacted the shop they are sending a new main board out to me, are they difficult to fit?

Bit miffed about the tank only working for 20mins, spend £160 with a German shop upgraded metal tracks, metal sprockets and idler wheels, plus bracing inside the tank.

Are these tanks really that unreliable?

Kev

wackywheelz

£160 is a lot of money for a Heng Long, but then I have seen people spend more than double that on a custom-painted non-S&S tank....

Sounds like one of the FETs has died, though it might be worth opening it up and having a look inside. Worry not, the boards are very easy to fit, hopefully you get the same board as the one you're replacing, that will make it much easier (simple wire swap 'n' solder)

Was you using the supplied 1700mah battery? Did it just stop driving the right-side forward while driving? What terrain do you drive on etc?

madbadger

its a 2000 battery on short cut grass in the back garden, it was coming towards me they just started turning right tried to correct it but just carried on turning right, it runs fine in reverse if you push the stick to the left corner, you can hear the tank speaker sound change as if its struggling (i think this is just a standard sound as turning the other way does the same thing) or should i not run it on grass. The shop said moisture on the circuit board can damage it. the oil smoker had leaked onto the bottom of the tank floor but they said that wasnt a problem as the smoke oil wouldnt damage the electronics.


just a bit annoyed that ever other rc vehicle ive ever bought has never failed, and some much much cheaper than what i paid for this. I just hope it cures the fault...if not they can give me my money back.

Kev

Wozwasnt

You can run on short grass but if a track gets snagged or clogged and you keep pushing it then it'll blow the board.

madbadger

if that's the case, i find it a poor quality in the circuit board, maybe heng long should look at building a decent well made board, Ive looked at the board and i must say its of poor quality, im no expert in electronics, but surely they could beef it up. Is there a way to make it better? or just be gentle with using the tank.

So how reliable are these RC tanks. If i have any more trouble i will demand my cash back. I know some people love to tinker with things like this, and i admit, i would add all the extras to make it more realistic, but if the damm thing isn't going to be reliable in its working, then im not wasting my money. I have a Koyosho RC motor bike which is 12 years old and it still goes like stink !!!!! and its on the same battery pack.

Kev

calvinlo

It is true that HL tanks used to be plagued by QA problems e.g. lousy soldering joints. Thankfully, the newer models e.g. Panzer III or IV are much reliable now.

However, what Wozwasnt mentioned here has nothing to do with poor quality. The HL boards are built with a certain current rating (I believe 3A). Under normal running condition, the stock setup (plastic tracks) should be adequate. But when you add on metal tracks, then things become different. It pushes the boards towards the current limit...And once the current through the board increases beyond the limit, either because the tracks are jammer or the tank is made to go up too steep a slope, then the board blows. It is as simple as that

If you really intend to run the tank with metal tracks, I suggest you check through some of the simple modifications done by some members in this forum, including flipping the boards and adding a small blower fan for better ventilations. It'll definitely helps.

wackywheelz

Too steep a slope, or pushing too heavy a thing (even a super-heavy tank) - if you're hard on it, and the tank has a metal gearbox (plastic gearbox has a clutch which slips when the tank meets excess resistance, thus saving the boards), then the RX13's stall-current tolerance being as low as it is becomes the weak-link. With bigger batteries, dont push too hard (longer runtimes=higher heat buildup), or possibly install a small fan over the board or extra heatsinks and just about be done with it (the increased heat dissipation gives the transistors/FETs a chance to cool between thrashings, rather than getting hotter than they can cope with and dying).

Plastic equipped tank usually has better chance of survival, being lighter (less strain on motors) and with the protection of the slipper clutch, basically what I'm saying is for the next board, since you tank is running metal, for added insurance simply add a small cooling fan and expect a much more reliable heavy tank.

Better factory-electronics cost money, and for the usual outlay on the tanks you already get a lot for the money - as designed (plastic tracks, gears and small capacity battery) they run quite well, its only later that all the accessories became available that reliability dropped (because of the extra strain, running heavier than designed)

Wozwasnt

Real tanks aren't the indestructable go anywhere machines of death that people imagine they are. They have to be driven carefully and have to be well maintained.

Scale tanks are no different.


My Tiger has all the metal upgrades and I put a fan and bigger heatsink on the drive transistors and after two years it's still going strong on its original board (and I drive it hard).

madbadger

i work with compters and access to fans are plentifull. The only problems are most fans are either 5v or 12, the tank uses 7.2 volts, how do i get the fan to work, resistor between the fan/power supply? i can repair computers build them but electronics baffle me. I have plenty of heat sinks and will be able to make a suitable heatsink, but how do i wire up a fan?

Kev