Hi everyone
I have been lurking around the website for a while and finally decided I should buy a tank. I ended up getting a T1 from Mato toys. They are priced right and shipped fast. I just got it friday and so far have been really happy with it I was surprised with how its pretty powerful. I am putting on the metal upgarde kit right now and the site has helped with trying to get the rear idler off. Thanks
Matt

Hi New Guy,

Welcome to the forum! I assume you got the S&S version? What color?

Planning on making the oft-described changes to improve the accuracy (flip mantlet, rotate commander's cupola, etc.)?


Remember, the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask.
-Harq

Welcome to the World of Tanking

Yeah I got the S&S version in Desert yellow. I have a few questions that maybe you guys can help with.
I put on the metal tracks yesterday. I added an extra link so the tracks would fit and it looked more realistic. Today I tried it outside and going through the grass it kept throwing track. I tried taking the extra link out but its just to tight without it. Any ideas. I saw some people have make an adjuster for the rear idler I might try this.

the turret turns to the left pretty much all the way to the rear, but to the right it only goes half way. I opened it up and it seems like the mecanism that rotates it is hitting something but its hard to tell. Has anyone had this problem.

I would like to start modifying it but I am have to much fun running it. Does anyone know where to get replacement boards I would like to know that it is possible to get replacements before I start taking it apart and mess something up.

thank

Tiger I is known for throwing tracks at a seemingly astonishing rate... []

Maybe I should buy one myself (been holding out) to go along with the Pershing so I can be more of an informed person.

I would suggest running the turret traverse while you have the tank opened up and observe the mechanism for any binding or wires getting in the way or some flaw in the turret gear (large toothed ring). Perhaps the only time it jams is when it is assembled so you may have to attempt replicating those conditions (like holding the upper hull in the same horizontal position it's in when assembled).

Before you start removing wires it may be wise to label which wire goes where or take a few good photos of the layout--otherwise you may have trouble reconnecting everything.

Replacement boards, and everything else, are available from Matotoys.com

-Harq

The metal tracks will stretch with time. I've actually removed a link and they stretched again a little. As for turret traverse, probably the wiring harness is not positioned right on the inside, move it back and forth a few times and see if it works itself out before opening it up. Mato is your place to get spares. Check out his accessories page. Buy a soldering iron too!

I dearly loved my Tiger 1, but sadly, I'm giving up on it[&o] I just couldn't keep the tracks on one side, and kept breaking track links and wheels. I would even throw the right side track on hardwood floor! If I took links out, I broke the tracks -- too loose, and they ran off the idler. Oh well, I consoled myself with buying another 1/24th tank of Shenlonco, and I just scored a 1/24th scale Marui Tiger off of ebay! On another note, my HL Pershing has none of the afore mentioned track problems. However, my electronics sucked in that tank, so I went with aftermarket stuff. I want another big Tiger, maybe I'll try a Tamiya or Bandai. My problem is, I don't want to drop 500-600 dollars on a tank kit, and still have the same track problems I had with the HL Tiger.

Why don't start anew with the tank? Buy all new road wheels unassembled from Mato, and maybe get the metal suspension arms that are being offered. Make sure everything is in alignment and you should be good to go. I wouldn't let $20-80 in parts ruin my day.

Thanks guys,
Ill try looking at the turret and see if its binding. And check out the alignment of the road wheels. Thing is it barely comes of the rear idler so I think if I move it out a little it might stay on better. Ill let you guys know what I find out. Thanks for the ideas.

I took the tracks off and aligned the rear idlers. Did a little test outside and it definatly runs better. thanks

How did you align the rear idlers? Did you just pull them out a little? Your problem sounds a lot like mine. My track doesn't come completely off, but moves where the outside guide is too far away from the idler (maybe about a 1/4") and the inside guide is actually running in the middle of the idler instead of on the inside of it (if this explanation makes sense). Maybe I could try your idea and eliminate my headaches.

That is exactly what was happening with mine I just couldn't explain it correctly. I took the track off and then looked down the road wheels and the idler. I bet your idler is in to far. I just eyeballed it to make the idler be in line with the roadwheels that guide the tabs. Just pulled it out a little, I am going to get a little hollow tube and use it as a space. Hope this helps.