The panthers
#1
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From: brisbannenambour, AUSTRALIA
Hi guys just ordered my panther so can you guys just tell me what i should look out for.[&:]
And is the tiger tracks exactely the same as the panthers and could you put tiger tracks on the panther.
Thanks for the help.
And is the tiger tracks exactely the same as the panthers and could you put tiger tracks on the panther.

Thanks for the help.
#2
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From: FleetHampshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Pantiger man,Yep.....the panther tracks are exactly the same as the Tiger....in fact, the whole bottom chassis is the same as the Tiger so all parts in there are interchangeable, but that is why the tank is physically very wrong.........not a problem if you don't mond the inaccuraccies but some of us can't live with them so you might want to mod it.......I am doing mine at the moment and it is quite a project to get it right so beware..........I will be posting soon on my progress when I am a bit further down the road with it..........
Cheers & good luck
CaptB
#3

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It's very unfortunate that Heng Long did not make the Panther look like the real Panther. There were threads on this. I'm a scale guy and scale fidelity ranks very high on my list. Hence, I'm thinking about dumping mine in a dumpster because it would take a lot of work to make the tank look right.
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From: FleetHampshire, UNITED KINGDOM

hey.......don't dump it in a dumpster..........send it to me.......I could use the spare parts for my Jagdpanther project....


Tally ho
CaptB
#6
use your Pershing...The Panther would be a great target. HL has let a lot slide regarding accuracy...it's really shame, as they do so well on much of the tank, but then they seem to forget what they are doing and add their own ideas.
Anyone familiar with the Pz IV 1/18 scale from New Millenium Toys? I got both the short and long gun tube (H and F1) and the detailing looks generally OK, but I find they are only semi operational and I'm not impressed with the running of either. When I get finished with the detailing, corrections and weathering, they should make nice static displays. Anyone have better luck, please advise how/what you did.
Bill
Anyone familiar with the Pz IV 1/18 scale from New Millenium Toys? I got both the short and long gun tube (H and F1) and the detailing looks generally OK, but I find they are only semi operational and I'm not impressed with the running of either. When I get finished with the detailing, corrections and weathering, they should make nice static displays. Anyone have better luck, please advise how/what you did.
Bill
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From: , CA
Hi pantiger man,
The drive sprocket and return wheel screws are almost always loose on new HL tanks (more so on the left side for some reason). Also check the sprockets, road wheels, and treads for left over flashing etc. This is a good time to check that the track/treads are free and not binding. It is a good idea to break the motors and tracks in by running it at the slowest speed while up on "blocks" for a couple of battery cycles. Doing this will, of course, also cycle the battery at the same time. A slow speed break in can improve the elect. mtr brush contact which will improve power and help the tank "track" or drive in a straight line. High speeds and or loads during motor/brush break in can cause pitting in the brushes as well as unequal brush contact between the two motors. This will cause the tank to always steer a little to the left or right as will track/tread binding on one side or the other.
These tanks also have a gap or open space on each side of the hull just above the drive sprokets that can allow excessive dirt, sand, water, etc. into the hull. The good thing is that these holes are easy to cover with duct tape without disassembly of the hull.
The drive sprocket and return wheel screws are almost always loose on new HL tanks (more so on the left side for some reason). Also check the sprockets, road wheels, and treads for left over flashing etc. This is a good time to check that the track/treads are free and not binding. It is a good idea to break the motors and tracks in by running it at the slowest speed while up on "blocks" for a couple of battery cycles. Doing this will, of course, also cycle the battery at the same time. A slow speed break in can improve the elect. mtr brush contact which will improve power and help the tank "track" or drive in a straight line. High speeds and or loads during motor/brush break in can cause pitting in the brushes as well as unequal brush contact between the two motors. This will cause the tank to always steer a little to the left or right as will track/tread binding on one side or the other.
These tanks also have a gap or open space on each side of the hull just above the drive sprokets that can allow excessive dirt, sand, water, etc. into the hull. The good thing is that these holes are easy to cover with duct tape without disassembly of the hull.
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From: FleetHampshire, UNITED KINGDOM

I was only joking.......but thanks for the thought.........I do have a sacrificial Pantiger that I will be modifying to a jagdpanther in good time...........Cheers
CaptB
#11
You can always save your pennies for Tamiya's pending new release. Should be out in a few months & you'll not be concerned about any issues when it comes to accuracy.
#12
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From: FleetHampshire, UNITED KINGDOM

yep........I know but I am too far into the Heng Long conversion to stop now really........anyway, my Panther is based on the Mark V which is slightly different to the Tamiya 'G' Panther, but since the panther is my favourite tank of all time, I will probably get one too when they arive........wonder how much they will be?.......I am also using my conversion as a learning tool for a Jagdpanther conversion later on.........too many tanks and not enough time....... Cheers
CaptB




